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Grow Lavender From Seed

Lavender is a terrific addition to any perennial garden. It’s fragrant, beautiful, and can be used medicinally or to discourage moth damage and musty odors in woolens and linens. If you’re gardening on a budget, it can be much more cost-effective to start lavender from seed rather than purchasing plants. This advice will help you have success.

Starting Your Seed

Note that not all lavender cultivars will come true from seed. Select one that will like English Munstead.

You can use trays commonly used in vegetable gardening to start lavender. It’s best to use a light, slightly alkaline sterile, and well-draining potting medium. Lavender can be prone to rot if it stays waterlogged.

Lavender can take up to 30 days to germinate, so starting your plants early is key! Place your seeds in your tray and lightly cover them with soil. It germinates best in soil that is around 70°F. To ensure your soil is warm enough, keep your trays in a warm area of your home and use seedling heat mats if available.

Water your lavender regularly, especially as the seed is germinating but avoid overwatering and constantly wet soil. Use lights if you’re starting indoors.

Planting Out

After all danger of frost has passed and your plants have a couple of sets of leaves, you can transition your seedlings out to the garden. Harden them off, bringing them outdoors for just a little bit longer each day.

Plant seedlings in a bed with well-drained soil that receives full sun. Lavender is sensitive to wind. Depending on your garden, you may need to provide wind protection during the winter. Covering your plants with a breathable fabric like burlap is a good option.

Once mature lavender plants make excellent borders and are great for achieving a cottage garden style.

Lavender grows very slowly, especially in the first year. Your garden bed may take a while to look full and impressive.

Harvesting

During the first year, it’s best to let your lavender grow without cutting any. By year two, your plants should be larger and flowering. During the second year, you should be able to begin harvesting, if desired.

The best time to harvest lavender is when the buds have formed, but the flowers haven’t opened yet. Harvesting at this time will ensure the best color and fragrance once the lavender is dry.

Use sharp, cleans scissors or pruners to harvest your lavender. Always leave at least one set of leaves growing on the stem below your cut.

Bundle your stems into small bunches and hang them upside down somewhere out of direct sunlight to dry.

Using Your Lavender

After your lavender has dried, in about 2-4 weeks, you can use it for a variety of projects. Use your lavender to make wreaths or simply enjoy the bundles hanging or in vases throughout the house.

You can also easily strip the buds off the stems with your fingers. The buds can then be sewn into satchels for keeping with clothing or under pillows to help with sleep.

Use the buds for herbal tea and adding to lemonade. Lavender is a traditional herbal remedy used for stress-related headaches and as a carminative, antidepressant, and calming tonic for the nervous system.

Lavender buds can also be used to create infused oils for soap or salves or in bath salts for their pleasant, soothing fragrance.

8 Common Mistakes When Starting Seeds

Starting seeds indoors is one of the best parts of gardening. You can finally get your hands in the soil after a winter break. A gardener’s shelf full of tiny seedlings is a sure sign that’s spring is on its way! Unfortunately as with everything in gardening growing transplants from seeds has its challenges. If you want to have awesome seedlings this year be sure to avoid these common mistakes.

Not providing supplemental light.

Unfortunately, setting your seedlings by a window probably isn’t going to give them enough light to become strong and healthy seedlings. Odds are they’ll become tall and spindly, reaching towards the light. You’ll have to provide them with some form of supplemental light. You don’t need to buy actual grow lights, simple garage or shop lights will do. You want the lights to be as close as possible to the tops of the plants without burning them. Setting up your lights so you can easily adjust their height as the plants grow is a great idea.

Not addressing a variety’s specific needs.

While many seeds are pretty simple to grow, just push it some dirt and water, others require a bit more care. Some seeds need to be soaked overnight before planting, some need light to germinate, while still others need to scarified. Always check package directions and do research as needed. 

Not hardening off your seedlings.

As your seedlings are accustomed to a climate controlled life indoors, they could succumb to shock if you decide to set them out without first acclimating them to their new environment. Start by setting them outside for just a few hours per day slowly adding time over the course of two weeks. This will allow them to adjust the intense sunlight, temperature, and wind. You can take this a step further by transplanting your seedlings on an overcast day so they don’t have to struggle with intense light on top of the shock of transplant.

Over or under-watering.

Seedlings should always be kept moist but they’ll rot if they’re just sitting in water. Whatever you plant your seedlings in should a hole or holes in the bottom and a tray underneath to catch any excess water. You also need to ensure that they don’t dry out completely which can happen surprisingly quickly as seedlings grow larger.

Not putting them somewhere noticeable.

Unless you’re a full-time market gardener it’s easy to forget about and neglect your seedlings. Setting up your shelf somewhere you walk by often will help you remember to care for them and make it easy for you to spot problems as soon as they arise. 

Not keeping them warm enough.

While some plants like spinach and lettuce germinate and grow well in cool weather, others like tomatoes and peppers like things pretty warm. If you notice that your seeds are taking a long time to germinate, are slow growing, or you live in a cool or drafty home you may want to invest in a heat mat. These can be placed underneath seedling trays and will help the soil stay at an optimum temperature. 

Using garden soil instead of a proper potting medium.

You don’t necessarily have to buy a potting mix but you do need something other than plain old garden soil. Potting mixes always include something like peat moss to hold some moisture but are also light so that they drain well. You can find many DIY recipes for potting soil on the internet. If you’re purchasing soil and want it to be organic look for something that’s OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) certified.

Starting them too early and/or not potting them up.

If you start your plants too early they can outgrow your pots before your ready to plant them out. In this case, you’ll need to pot them up. If you don’t do this they can become root bound which may stunt their growth and weaken them.  

If you’ve struggled with growing your own transplants in the past being careful to avoid these common mistakes can help you have a productive garden this year. 

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