Bountiful Blooms: 7 Easy Flowers to Succession Plant

We’ve often discussed succession planting vegetable crops like sweet corn, zucchini, and bush beans to avoid gluts and shortages here on the blog, but it’s also an excellent technique for flower gardening. Whether you’re growing cut flowers for market, to provide food for pollinators, or just to enjoy their beauty, succession planting flowers can help you achieve your goals. In today’s post, we’ll dive into why succession planting is important, how to do it, and our favorite flowers for succession planting.

Why Should I Succession Plant Flowers?

Succession planting ensures that you have fresh blooms all summer long and into autumn, whether you want them for bouquets, bees, or beautiful landscaping.

Even when you have flower varieties that say they bloom all season, that may not be the reality. In the Southeast, annual flowers can stop blooming early as the plants weaken under the stress of hot summer days, drought, and prevalent fungal diseases.Pink cosmos in bloom

How to Succession Plant Flowers

Succession planting is simple. It means you’re dividing up your plantings into smaller groups, rather than sowing all of your flowers at once. Typically, we plant a new succession every two to three weeks.

To determine when to start sowing, you’ll need to know your last spring frost date and your variety’s ideal growing conditions. For warm-weather annuals like zinnias, you’ll need to wait until all danger of frost has passed, but you can sow cool-weather loving flowers like sweet peas much sooner. Once the conditions are right, you can begin sowing every two to three weeks.

For cool weather loving crops, sow a couple of successions in spring and then another in late summer for fall. For warm-weather crops, you can usually sow successions all summer.

To determine when to stop sowing, you’ll need your first fall frost date. Using your first frost date for fall, you can count backward with a chosen variety’s days to maturity. To account for slow growth in the dwindling light of autumn, add an additional 15 days. That will be the last date you can sow that type of flower.

Example: Let’s say my average first fall frost date is October 20th and I want to grow successions of Mexican Cosmos all summer. Mexican Cosmos take 68 days to bloom. I’ll add an extra 15 days to 68 to account for slow growth for a total of 83 days. Then I’ll count backward 83 days from October 20th, which would be July 29th. This is the last possible date I can sow a succession to get blooms before a frost.

You don’t have to use a calendar to count by hand; try a time and date calculator like this one.

You can also stagger your flower season by choosing species and varieties that have different days to maturity. This will naturally help to spread out your blooms.

Whenever a bed of flowers fades or dies, pull it immediately, look at your planting list and sow a new succession. This can happen when cool-weather flowers like violas succumb to the summer heat, or you harvest all of your early sunflower blooms for market.Muli-colored zinnias in bloom

7 Easy Flowers for Succession Planting

Easy to grow and quick to bloom, these are the workhorses of the continuously blooming flower garden.

Zinnias

Zinnias are colorful, easy to grow, prolific, and versatile. Most zinnia varieties take between 60 and 80 days to bloom, meaning you can usually get several successions in before fall. For extra early blooms, you can start zinnias indoors in trays about four to six weeks before your last spring frost. Transplant them out into beds once all danger of frost has passed.

Cosmos

Like zinnias, cosmos are easy to grow, colorful, and prolific. Some varieties, like Sensation Mix, begin blooming in as little as 45 days, making them ideal for getting the most out of a small flower garden. You can start cosmos indoors in containers about four to six weeks before your last spring frost and transplant them out after danger of frost has passed.

Sunflowers

Sunflowers are some of our favorites at Southern Exposure. These cheerful blooms are great for cut flowers and enjoyed by pollinators, songbirds, and humans alike. Unlike cosmos and zinnias, sunflowers don’t offer continuous, prolific blooms. If you want to enjoy fresh sunflowers over a long season, you need to succession plant. Multi-headed sunflowers offer the most blooms and are usually ready to harvest in just 50 to 60 days.

Most people direct sow sunflowers, but you can also start them indoors about 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost. Transplant them outdoors when all danger of frost has passed.Orange calendula blooms

Calendula

Calendula doubles as both a beautiful flower and a medicinal herb. You can also use calendula petals to decorate baked goods or add pops of color to salads and garnishes. Its short days to maturity and attractive blooms make it ideal for succession planting. The two calendula varieties we carry each take about 85 days to bloom.

You can begin sewing calendula indoors about 4 to 8 weeks before your last spring frost date, then transplant it out when all danger of frost has passed.

Amaranth

Amaranth varieties like Love-Lies-Bleeding, Mayo India, and Golden offer so many benefits. In addition to working well in cut flower arrangements, they’re highly nutritious, fully edible plants that are drought-resistant, easy to grow, and attractive to pollinators. They typically bloom in about 60 to 90 days.

If desired, start amaranth indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before your last spring frost and transplant them out when the danger of frost has passed.

Marigolds

Most articles about succession planting flowers focus on cut flower market farming. While marigolds may not be a popular flower for bouquets, they are great for succession planting. Succession planting marigolds ensures you have a steady supply of beautiful blooms that will attract pollinators and deter pests.

Start sowing marigolds indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before your last spring frost and transplant them out when all danger of frost has passed.

Celosia

There’s a lot to love about Celosia. It offers fun colors and unique shapes, and it’s long-lasting in the garden and in the vase. Celosia is also an excellent candidate for succession planting. However, most varieties take 90 to 100 days to bloom. Even when you start your successions early, you will only get in a couple.

To start Celosia indoors, sow it in flats or containers about 6 to 8 weeks before your last spring frost. It will be ready to transplant out after all danger of frost has passed.Purple and blue Larkspur blooming in front of a building

Other Options for Spring and Fall Successions

There are many other flowers you can succession plant. Some, like larkspur, thrive in spring’s cool weather, and others, like rudbeckia, take longer to bloom, making them ideal for fall.

  • Larkspur
  • Sweet peas
  • Snapdragons
  • Poppies
  • Rudbeckia
  • Bells of Ireland
  • Dara
  • Queen Anne’s Lace
  • Bachelor’s Buttons

Garden Guardians: How to Attract Toads

Toads are the nighttime guardians of your garden. Even if you don’t see them, you might hear them. Toad’s have beautiful trills that echo through the spring and summer evenings. These nocturnal creatures come out at night to feed on insects, protecting your plants and keeping the ecosystem in balance. There are several toads that live in the Southeastern United States and with a little work you can invite them to your garden.

Why Should I Attract Toads to My Garden?

While they may not be turning into princes any time soon, toads are little warriors that help guard your garden. Adult toads are voracious predators that feed on small invertebrates like slugs, cutworms, roaches, earwigs, ants, beetles, caterpillars, and grubs. Some sources indicate that during the growing season, over 80% of a toad’s diet may consist of common garden pests. 

Toads of the Southeastern United States

While the differences can be tricky to spot, there are several different species of toad that live in the Southeastern United States.

A Southern Toad (Anaxyrus terrestris) sitting on a sidewalk
Southern Toad (Anaxyrus terrestris)

Southern Toad (Anaxyrus terrestris)

These medium-sized toads that are usually brown but may range from gray to red or black. They often have dark spots which contain one or more warts. Don’t worry, you can’t get warts from them! That’s an old wive’s tale. Southern Toads have two prominent bumps called cranial crests on top of their heads, between their eyes. These crests can help you differentiate them from other species.

American Toad (Anaxyrus americanus) sitting in brown leaves
American Toad (Anaxyrus americanus)
Ryan Hodnett, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

American Toad (Anaxyrus americanus)

American toads are medium-sized and usually brown or gray but can also be reddish, olive, or tan, often with yellow or tan patches and irregular dark spots. They usually have one or two warts within the dark spots. American toads also feature distinct, kidney-shaped, wart-like glands called parotoid glands behind each eye.

Fowler’s Toad (Anaxyrus fowleri) sitting in grass
Fowler’s Toad (Anaxyrus fowleri)
Bob Warrick, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Fowler’s Toad (Anaxyrus fowleri)

These small to medium toads have brown to gray, dry warty skin and short legs. Occasionally, they may feature yellowish highlights. Unlike American Toads, Fowler’s Toads typically have at least three warts within each dorsal spot.

Oak Toad (Anaxyrus quercicus) in wet leaves
Oak Toad (Anaxyrus quercicus)

Oak Toad (Anaxyrus quercicus)

The Oak Toad is the smallest North American toad! These toads feature a distinct light colored stripe down the center of their backs making them easy to distinguish from other toad species. They also feature large, irregular brown and black spots. 

How to Attract Toads to My Garden

Toads occur naturally in many of the places we garden, but they’re more likely to spend time there, and eat more pests, if you make the space more comfortable for them. Here’s five simple ways you can make your garden a bit more appealing to toads.

Add Some Shelter

Toads thrive when they have plenty of shelter from predators and the weather. Overturned pots, rock piles, toad houses, wood piles, rock gardens, and wild areas are great options for toad shelters. Create spaces where the toads can get beneath to stay moist and be protected from wind, sun, and predators.

American Toad (Anaxyrus americanus) Spawn in water
American Toad (Anaxyrus americanus) Spawn in a vernal pool

Provide Water

Toads don’t swim like frogs, but they do need plenty of water for drinking and breeding. Shallow dishes of water in the garden are great for drinking water. If you’re up for a larger project, you can also make shallow ponds in or near your garden for breeding. Avoid treating the water with chemicals. No matter what water sources you’re providing ensure it has shallow sides that toads can easily climb. 

Create Dense, Shady Areas

Adding shrubs and dense plantings to your garden helps hold moisture and gives toads a place to hide from predators. These areas are also great for other wildlife like songbirds. They can be as simple as wildflower strips or native shrubs planted alongside your growing area.

Avoid Pesticides, Herbicides, and Other Chemicals

Toads have permeable skin that allows them to absorb oxygen and moisture from their environment. Sadly, this also means it’s easy for them to absorb toxins and pollutants that contact their skin which can lead to illness and death. They may also come into contact with pesticides as they feed on affected insects. To protect toads and other wildlife, avoid applying chemicals in your garden.

Allow Leaf Litter to Accumulate 

Leaves keep the soil cool and moist. They provide attractive habitats for toads and for the bugs they eat. In dense piles beneath shrubs, toads may even find places to overwinter.

Toads are surprisingly long-lived with many living 10 years in the wild. If you can convince one your garden is a good place to stay, you may have a helpful garden partner for years to come. 

Correcting Common Issues with Vegetable Seedlings

Starting your own seedlings can be a great way to improve your garden. It gives you access to a wider range of varieties and helps you save a bit of money. It can also help ensure that you start the season with healthy plants, as long as you avoid a few common mistakes. Here are some of the common issues with seedlings we see and how to avoid them. 

Leggy or spindly seedlings

Seedlings that grow tall or “leggy” with long, spindly stems are a clear sign your plants aren’t getting enough light. Your plants are literally reaching for the sun.

Plants have evolved to grow quickly towards the sun until their leaves are receiving adequate levels of light. In the wild, this helps newly germinated plants clear the soil, plant debris, and the leaves of other plants until they reach a level where they will receive adequate sunlight.

While this adaptation serves them well in the wild, it also means that if your vegetable crops don’t get enough light, they will develop long, weak stems. To prevent this, use supplement lights like grow lights or LED shop lights and keep them about 2 to 4 inches above the tops of your plants.

A tray of spindly seedlings
Spindly seedlings

Burned leaves with brown or white spots

While tall, skinny seedlings mean your seedlings aren’t getting enough light, it’s also possible for them to get too much light. Leaving high-intensity or hot lights too close to your seedlings can burn the leaves, resulting in brown edges, brown tips, brown or white spots on the leaves, or a combination of these symptoms.

Seedlings may also burn while you try to transition them outdoors. True sunlight is much harsher than any grow lights or indoor lighting. To avoid burning your seedlings, you need to slowly acclimate them in a process called hardening off. 

Visit our blog How to Harden Off Seedlings to learn more.

Dampening off

Another common issue is “dampening off,” which is when your seedlings develop a soft, discolored stem near the soil line and suddenly fall over and die. Fungi and molds that thrive in damp, cool conditions cause this disease. 

Unfortunately, these molds and fungi will spread and may survive in soil and on equipment like pots, tools, and trays. If you spot dampening off in your seedlings, remove that tray from the others and carefully monitor the others. To clean your tools, trays, and equipment, soak them in a solution of water and 10% household bleach for 30 minutes.

There are also several ways to prevent dampening off:

  • Select containers with drainage holes or use soil blocks. 
  • Use seed starting mix or potting soil that drains well.
  • Avoid overwatering. 
  • Provide 12 to 16 hours of supplemental light for seedlings.
  • If possible, use heating pads to maintain a soil temperature of 70-75°F.
  • Use a low fan so improve air circulation. 

Stunted plants with discolored purple, yellow, or discolored leaves

If your seedlings are growing particularly slowly and appear stunted with leaf discoloration, they may have a nutrient deficiency. Different deficiencies present with different symptoms. 

Seed starting mix rarely contains high levels of nutrients, as it’s just designed to get plants started. Older seedlings may need to be fertilized and potted up. However, seedlings may often present with nutrient deficiencies when the soil is perfectly adequate. Conditions like waterlogged soil, dry soil, or cold temperatures prevent the plants from taking up nutrients.

Nitrogen deficiency

Nitrogen deficiency causes seedlings to turn yellow, beginning with the older, lower leaves before spreading to the younger leaves. Seedlings will also put on poor growth and may develop thin, spindly stems. 

Cool soil, below 60°F, can affect your seedlings’ ability to take up nitrogen. A tomato leaf that's purple on the underside and display phosphorus deficiency

Phosphorus deficiency

Seedlings with phosphorus deficiency may have a purple appearance, particularly on the undersides of the leaves. 

Even if there is plenty of phosphorus available, seedlings can present with phosphorus deficiency if they’re too cold or wet. Soil temperatures below 60°F or waterlogged soil can prevent seedlings from taking up phosphorus, even if plenty is available.

Potassium deficiency

Potassium deficiency can cause stunted growth, leading to stocky seedlings with weak stems. The older leaves often feature yellowing or purple-red coloration with browning or burned edges. 

Seedlings may fail to take up adequate levels of potassium in waterlogged or cool soil below 60°F.

Visit our blog on Common Nutrient Deficiencies to learn more about identifying other deficiencies. 

Correcting nutrient deficiencies

To correct nutrient deficiencies, ensure that your seedlings are at an adequate temperature and receiving an appropriate amount of water. If those needs are met, you can supplement them with a liquid fertilizer like liquid kelp or fish emulsion. Typically, you dilute these fertilizers in your watering can. Check the specific product instructions before applying. 

Starting your own seedlings is an easy and fun way to start the season, but there are a few common snags growers run into. Avoiding these common seedling mistakes will ensure you start the season with healthy, vigorous transplants. 

Having trouble with seeds germinating slowly? Check out our  Five Quick Tips for Good Germination. 

Saving the Past for the Future