As soon as you start gardening, you begin to see the earth beneath your feet in a whole new way. Soil is a surprisingly complex topic and the key to plant health. While you may not know everything there is to know about soil, getting a good grasp of the basics can help you create a more productive garden. Soil pH is one of the critical elements for gardeners to understand. 

What is Soil pH?

In simple terms, pH stands for the “power of hydrogen” or “potential of hydrogen” and refers to the concentration of hydrogen ions in the soil. As the concentration of hydrogen ions in soil increases, the pH decreases, so the soil is more acidic. Conversely, a low concentration of hydrogen ions in soil means it has a high or alkaline soil pH. 

The scale for pH ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. The lower numbers are acidic, while the higher numbers are alkaline. Most plants prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 6.0 and 7.0, but I’ll cover that in more depth below. 

Soil pH by Region

Just as there are various soil types like heavy clay and loam across the United States, there are regional variations in the pH of unamended soils. 

Many factors contribute to the pH of native soil. Rainfall leaches alkaline nutrients like calcium and magnesium from the soil, making areas with heavy rainfall more acidic. Organic matter decomposition also creates more acidic soil. Leaves and pine needles release organic acids as they break down. The bedrock also affects the soil. Basic rocks like basalt break down to form more alkaline soils, while acidic rocks like granite lower the pH and create more acidic soils.

In general, the eastern United States, including the Southeast, has acidic soils, though there are smaller regional variations. Due to its rainfall, forests, and bedrock, the Pacific Northwest also has mainly acidic soils. The Midwest and Great Lakes fall closer to neutral, while the western states  tend to have alkaline soil. 

Smaller, regional variations have become more common thanks to humans. We’re constantly moving and mixing soil. Soil moved for construction, development, agriculture, and any amendments will affect the soil pH you find on your property.

How to Test Soil pH

The best way to test your soil pH is to get a full soil test from your local agriculture extension office or agricultural college. Usually, they offer free or very affordable tests for residents. Most offer some recommendations or support in addition to your test results.

To find your county extension agency, try browsing the listings of Pick Your Own. They list contact information for county extension agencies across the United States.

You can also find at-home pH tests at many garden centers. These offer quick results but aren’t as reliable. They also usually lack any additional support or recommendations. 

For more information on how and when to take an accurate sample, visit our guide to taking a soil test.

Soil pH for Plants

As I mentioned above, most vegetable garden plants prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 6.0 and 7.0, but it can vary widely depending on the plant and the type of soil that they’re adapted to. For example, most of the Southeast has acidic soil, so many of our native plants like azaleas, American elderberries, goldenrod, and rudbeckia tolerate or thrive in acidic soil. 

The University of Maryland Extension has a helpful chart for the ideal soil pH for vegetable crops, including the level at which you should apply lime. You’ll notice that a few vegetables like potatoes and carrots tolerate a bit more acidity than many of the others.

Keeping vegetables within their key pH range is essential for good production. If the pH is too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic), the soil particles bind too tightly to essential nutrients, preventing your plants from using them, which will lead to stunted growth, disease issues, and poor production. 

In acidic soil, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, and magnesium become less available. Toxic levels of aluminum, manganese, and iron can build up, damaging roots. In alkaline soil, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, and boron become less available. 

How to Change Your Soil pH

No matter what pH your soil test indicates, you can amend your soil to be suitable for the crops you’re growing. 

If your soil is too alkaline, you’ll want to lower the pH to make it more acidic. Elemental sulfur is a common option that’s easy to find. Many other garden amendments will lower the pH more slowly over time, including peat moss, compost, and fertilizer. 

If you’re on the East Coast, it’s most likely that your soil is too acidic. The most common way to remedy this is to amend your garden with agricultural or dolomitic lime, both of which are made from ground limestone. Adding biochar or wood ashes from your wood stove or fireplace can also slowly help to raise your garden pH. 

Knowing how much to amend your soil can be tricky. Too much sulfur or lime can be as detrimental as too little. Getting recommendations from a soil laboratory based on your test is the best option. The Clemson University Soil Testing Laboratory also has a handy lime calculator you can use based on your test results.

If possible, amend your soil at least three weeks before planting. While you can amend closer to planting time without harming plants, it will take several weeks before you see changes in your soil pH. 

It may be the middle of January, but we’re already dreaming of summer’s bounty. Cucumbers are one of our must-grow summer crops for beginners and experienced gardeners alike. Unlike the grocery store, which may carry one or two varieties, growing your own cucumbers gives you access to many different varieties and types of cucumbers. In this post, we’ll dive into the different types of cucumbers and a few of our favorite varieties so you can select the best cucumber for your garden.

Types of Cucumbers

Cucumber varieties feature a wide range of growing habits, shapes, sizes and other characteristics that we use to divide them into different categories. These categories can help you select the right cucumber for your garden and palate.

Pickling Cucumbers

As their name suggests, pickling cucumbers are bred for pickling, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy them fresh! Many gardeners love snacking on pickling cucumbers too. However, they’re ideal for pickling because they have firmer, drier flesh and thicker skin, which helps to absorb brine better and holds up better to canning. They’re also highly productive, producing tons of smaller cucumbers, ready to fill your pickling jars. 

Beginner Favorite: Arkansas Little Leaf Pickling 

Arkansas Little Leaf is a classic pickling cucumber with extensive disease resistance and good productivity. The compact vines have multiple branch points and will easily climb any trellis or fence. They feature relatively small leaves, which makes finding the cucumbers much easier. Arkansas Little Leaf has parthenocarpic flowers that don’t require pollination. You’ll get fruit even when the plants are under stress or lack a pollinator. 

The cucumbers grow to about 5 inches long and are ideal for pickling. However, they also have great flavor for fresh eating and produce quite early, in just 59 days.

Slicing Cucumbers

Slicing cucumbers tend to grow longer and have moist, sweet flesh and thin skin. As the name suggests, they’re great for slicing and perfect for snacking and salads. You can also use slicing cucumbers for pickling, but you may find that the pickles turn out a bit less firm than they would with pickling varieties. 

Beginner Favorite: Marketmore 76 Cucumber

This is one of the standard open-pollinated market varieties. Marketmore 76 produces high yields of uniform dark green 8-inch fruits. Use them as slicers for salads, sandwiches, and other meals or harvest them small for pickling. 

Marketmore 76 is ready to harvest in 57 days and thrives in the Mid-Atlantic and north. It displays excellent disease resistance and is bitter-resistant.

Burpless Cucumbers

Cucumbers contain a compound called cucurbitacin. In high quantities, it can make cucumbers bitter and can cause indigestion and burping in some folks. To avoid this, growers bred burpless cucumbers. 

These thin-skinned cucumbers contain low levels of cucurbitacin making them easier to digest for sensitive folks. Burpless cucumbers are sweet and mild, perfect for fresh eating or pickling.

Beginner Favorite: Suyo Long Asian

This sweet-flavored, “burpless” cucumber is hot weather tolerant and widely adapted. A Chinese variety, it has proven to be exceptionally hardy, productive, and fine-flavored even under adverse conditions. In Twin Oaks Seeds’ 2013 Downy Mildew trials, Suyo Long was one of the best.

In the Southeast, you can plant Suyo Long as an early, main season, and late season variety. The 15 to 18-inch long cucumbers are excellent fresh or pickled.

Specialty Cucumbers

There are many cucumber varieties that don’t fit our traditional idea of a cucumber. These varieties may look a little unusual but offer delicious, unique flavor and are suitable for pickling or slicing. 

Beginner Favorite: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Mouse Melon, Sandita)

Mexican Sour Gherkins are always a favorite at our tastings! Immature, they taste like cucumbers; when fully mature, they taste like pickled cucumbers. Their adorable mini watermelon-like appearance makes them a fun choice for snacking. 

Plant the thin, vigorous vines on a trellis along a garden path for easy reach. Mexican Sour Gherkins are ready to harvest in about 73 days and continue to bear until frost.

These little cukes are actually of a different species altogether. Mexican Sour Gherkins are Melothria scabra while all the other varieties on this list are Cucumis sativus. They’re both members of the Cucurbitaceae family, which contains cucumbers, squash, melons, and gourds. While they’re not the same species, their flavor has earned them a spot on our cucumber list.

Bush Cucumbers

Most cucumbers are vining, so gardeners need a good trellis or plenty of space to let them ramble. Bush cucumbers have a more bush-type growth habit. They’re perfect for container gardening or other small spaces. 

Beginner Favorite: Spacemaster 

This little cucumber plant is ideal for small gardens and containers. It’s a newer variety developed by Dr. Munger at Cornell. Spacemaster produces bush-type plants with 2 to 3 foot long vines and 7½ inch long cukes.

In addition to its compact size, Spacemaster is widely adapted and works well for slicing or pickles. Plant Spacemaster early to avoid late-season diseases.

There are so many wonderful cucumber varieties to enjoy! Select the perfect cucumber for your garden whether you’re growing in containers, eager to make dill pickles, or just want a quick snack.