Tag Archives: beginners guides

Beginner’s Guide to Growing Melons

Melons are one joy of the summer garden. They’re sweet, juicy, and aromatic, but they can be a little tricky to grow. In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know to have success growing melons or muskmelons (Cucumis melo var. reticulatus). 

Muskmelons include green-fleshed and orange-fleshed melons and are often confused with cantaloupes. Cantaloupes are muskmelons, but not all muskmelons are cantaloupes. We only carry one true cantaloupe, Noir des Carmes.

We have a separate post on growing watermelons (Citrullus lanatus), which are a different species with slightly different needs.

Choosing a Variety

Melon diseases aren’t a significant issue for many growers, but they can be a problem for some. If your garden has a history of melon diseases like Alternaria leaf spot, rust, powdery mildew, downy mildew, and Fusarium wilt. It’s best to stick with disease-resistant varieties. 

Thankfully, there are many good options. Here are a few of our disease resistant melons and what they’re resistant to:

Preparing the Soil for Growing Melons

A good melon harvest starts with good soil. These tender fruits are picky about their growing conditions.

First, get a soil test and ensure the pH of your soil is about 7, but no lower than 6. Melons will cannot thrive in soil that’s too acidic and won’t produce well.

Loose, warm, well-drained sandy loam is ideal for melons. If you have clay soil, you will need to work in a good deal of organic matter. Melons will fail in peat, muck, or heavy clay. No matter what your soil looks like, it’s best to add nutrient-rich finished compost before planting. 

If your soil isn’t ideal, consider Pike Muskmelon, which was bred for growing in unirrigated clay soil. Pike produces 3 pound fruits on unirrigated clay or 7 pound fruits on good irrigated soil. 

When to Plant Melons?

Muskmelons are extremely sensitive to temperature and have no frost tolerance. Wait to plant melons outdoors until all danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures have reached 70°F. When starting seeds indoors, sow your melons about 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost date. 

Timing is key when planting melons. Seedling exposure to cold early in a plant’s life can cause melons to fail to set fruit later in the season.

Depending on your growing season and the variety you select, you may be able to plant multiple successions of melons. For example, growers in most of the Southeast can get multiple successions of a fast-growing melon like Delicious 51 PMR Muskmelon, which matures in just 77 days.

Melon Seedlings
This photo shows a very young melon seedling in the top left and an older melon seedling at right.

Direct Sow or Transplant?

You can direct sow or transplant melons into your garden, but each method has a few benefits and drawbacks. 

No matter which method you choose, you want to water your seeds carefully. While they should remain consistently moist, over-watering can cause melon seeds to rot. 

Direct Sowing Melons

Direct sowing melons is less work and may be easier on the plants. Melons have very sensitive root systems that don’t tolerate disturbance, which makes transplanting challenging. However, direct sown seedlings are more susceptible to slug and other pest pressure. 

As you must wait to sow until the soil is warm, they may also take longer to produce a harvest. However, you can speed the process a bit by sprouting your seeds before sowing. Sprout the seeds in moist towels in plastic bags. Check them each day, keeping the towel damp. Sow them in the garden before the root reaches the length of the seed.

Using row cover over your melon beds until the plants begin to flower can help eliminate pest issues and protect them from wind.

When direct sowing, plant seeds 1/2 to 3/4 inches deep 1 to 2 inches apart in rows 5 to 6 inches apart. Later, when the seedlings have developed true leaves, thin them to 12 to 18 inches apart, selecting week seedlings for thinning. No one enjoys thinning, but crowded melons produce poorly. 

Transplanting Melons

Melons are incredibly delicate to transplant, so for must people we recommend sticking to direct sowing. However, transplanting has the benefit of providing an earlier harvest when done successfully. Transplanting seedlings rather than direct sowing can also help reduce seedling loss from slug and pest pressure. 

As they have sensitive root systems, sow your melons in pots, not in flats. Biodegradable pots like newspaper pots are a good option. Sow two to three seeds per pot about 1/2 inch deep. If all three in a pot come up, use scissors to trim off the weaker two.

Keep the pots warm, using a seedling heat mat if possible. Melon seeds germinate best when the temperature is 85 to 90°F. After germination, maintain your seedlings at 75° F or higher.

Hardening Off

Melons are delicate, so it’s important to harden off your transplants. Start by setting them outdoors in indirect sunlight for just a couple of hours. Gradually increase their sun exposure and time outdoors over a couple of weeks. 

Transplanting Outdoors

Wait for ideal conditions to transplant your melons. They are more likely to suffer from transplant shock on windy or chilly days. Again, the soil temperature should be at least 70°F. Water your seedlings the day before you transplant and again about one hour before transplanting. 

Transplant your melons 12 to 18 inches apart in rows 5 to 6 feet apart. Melons typically have long stems by the time they’re ready for transplanting. To help them grow well, gently bury this delicate stem. This will encourage rooting. 

Keep a few seedlings set aside in pots, to fill in any gaps if some of your transplants fail. Melon growing on a vine

Caring for Melons

Once you’ve successfully transplanted your melons, caring for them is fairly straightforward. However, there are a few key steps you want to take throughout the season to ensure a good harvest. 

Watering

Melons require consistent watering through flowering and early fruit set for good production. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. Generally, melons will need about 1 to 2 inches of water per week, depending on the temperatures, wind conditions, and cloud cover. 

Water your melons in the morning. Use a drip hose, soaker hose, irrigation or water at the base of the vine to avoid splashing water on the leaves which can contribute to disease issues. Water deeply about three times per week, depending on the rain. 

Mulch 

Mulch is great for blocking weeds and adding organic matter to the soil, but it can also keep the soil cool. Wait for hot weather to mulch around melons to ensure the soil is warm. Then mulch heavily, especially under developing fruit. 

Pest and Wildlife Issues

Unfortunately, there are several pests and animals that may go after your melon plants. Thankfully, there are some surefire ways to deal with them. 

Early in the season, slugs will feed on the young seedlings. You can deter slugs by temporarily pulling mulch alway from plants and removing slug hiding places. You can also manage their populations by placing homemade beer traps. Fill shallow containers with beer and place them near your plants. The slugs will get in and drown. 

Cucumber beetles are also a major pest of melons and may introduce bacterial wilt to your crop. Proper crop rotation is key to managing cucumber beetle issues. Row cover can also be a good way to exclude the beetles, but must be removed during flowering to ensure good pollination. Amaranth planted nearby also makes a good trap crop. Check out our full post on managing cucumber beetles. 

Cornell University bred the Trifecta Muskmelon for striped cucumber beetle resistance. 

Mealybugs, whiteflies, and aphids can also attack melon plants, but we mostly see this in greenhouse settings. Use a fairly strong spray setting on your hose to blast these pests off the plants. Some people also have luck with soap sprays. However, some melon foliage is sensitive to soap sprays. Try it on a few leaves, before spraying the entire plant. 

Humans aren’t the only animals attracted to sweet melons. It’s likely that your melons will need some protection from animals like groundhogs, raccoons, deer, and other wildlife, particularly during dry seasons! We’ve even had customers report coyotes eating their melons during a drought. Use secure fencing around your garden and melon patch to keep out unwanted dinner guests. 

Harvesting Melons

Ripe melons usually have a telltale sweet aroma. Depending on the variety, you’ll also notice an ivory-yellow coloring. When fully ripe, most melons easily slip from the vine when you put pressure at the base of the stem with your thumb.

Pile of Edisto 47 Muskmelons with the tops one sliced in half to show an orange center
Edisto 47 Muskmelon

Seed Saving 

If you’re planning to save seed from your favorite melon variety, isolate melons by a minimum of 1/8 mile for home use, or 1/2 to 1 mile for pure seed. While you could save seed from a single plant, we recommend saving from 5 to 10 plants to preserve genetic diversity.

You can harvest seed from fully ripe melons that you’ve harvested for the table. However, to get the highest quantity of viable seeds, leave the melons on the vines until they’re over-ripe, about 20 days past your typical harvest time. 

Cut your melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Viable seeds should be firm and plump. Rinse the seeds in a colander, removing the pulp.

Lay seeds out to dry on a tea towel, paper towel, or old screen. When they’re dry enough for storage, you’ll be able to cleanly snap them in half with your fingers. If seeds bend rather than break, they need to be dried longer.

Move fully dry seeds to airtight containers and store them somewhere cool and dark. 

Top Tips for Growing Broccoli

Broccoli is among the first spring crops we begin tucking into trays indoors. It’s got a lot going for it, too. Broccoli is cold-hardy, packed with vitamins, and edible in its entirety, including the leaves, stem, and flower head. It’s also a simple crop to start from seed; no scarification, stratification, or heat mats are needed. Broccoli is a low-maintenance seedling. Like all crops, broccoli isn’t without its growing challenges. To ensure you have success growing broccoli this season, follow these steps and tips!

When to Sow Broccoli Indoors

For these first spring plantings, you’ll want to know your estimated last frost date. We like to have transplants ready to go about one month before our last frost, so we start broccoli seedlings indoors about 4 to 5 weeks before that. Generally, we’re starting broccoli indoors between January 31st and May 31st.

When to Transplant Broccoli

As mentioned above, you can start transplanting broccoli out about one month before your last estimated frost date. Generally, we’re setting out broccoli plants between March 15th and July 15th, with the later dates intended for fall harvest. 

While broccoli is cold-hardy, you do want to avoid very low temperatures. If seedlings experience 20° F or lower, they may “button up” and only make tiny heads. This is because the plants will think that they’ve gone through a winter and that it’s time to flower.

When transplanting, give your broccoli adequate space. Usually, rows 12 to 16 inches apart is a good spacing for broccoli. 

Direct Sowing Broccoli

Many people choose to transplant broccoli as it can help plants reach maturity before the weather gets hot. However, you can also direct sow broccoli seeds. We like to direct sow broccoli from about March 10th through July 1st.

Check out our tips for direct sowing in hot weather.

Brassica Seedlings
Brassica Seedlings

Tips for Growing Broccoli

Broccoli isn’t high maintenance, but like any crop, it thrives with a bit of attention. Here are a few steps you can take to ensure your broccoli produces well.

Mulch Deeply

Broccoli produces best when the soil is kept cool, moist, and weed-free. A deep layer of mulch, particularly in the warmer months, can make a big difference in broccoli plantings. 

Water Consistently

Again, broccoli will only produce nice heads if it has enough moisture. Consistent watering is essential, especially during hot, dry weather. 

Keep the Cabbage Worms Away

Almost every gardener who has grown brassicas has dealt with the dreaded cabbage worms at some point. The name cabbage worms often refers to several species, all of which use brassicas as their primary host plant. These include the Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae), The Cabbage Moth (Mamestra brassicae), and the Cabbage Looper (Trichoplusia ni). They lay their eggs on brassicas, and the eggs hatch into very hungry little caterpillars that can turn cabbages to lace and infiltrate beautiful heads of broccoli. 

Row Cover

Thankfully, there are some simple, organic methods for keeping them away. One of our favorites is to cover your plants with row cover. Usually, you can purchase a lightweight netting row cover and wire hoops to hold it off your plants. Tulle from your local fabric store works just as well and might be a cheaper option. You can also DIY the hoops from PVC or other flexible materials. 

Organic Insecticides

One organic method is B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis). This natural, soil-dwelling bacteria damages the caterpillars’ guts that feed on it. It’s safe for humans, and you can find OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) certified products for use on your plants.

Neem oil is another popular choice for repelling cabbage worms. It’s a naturally occurring oil from neem trees that can be applied to your broccoli. Like B.t., you can find OMRI-certified neem oil.

Companion Planting

Cabbage worms are often a more aggressive, intense issue in monoculture plantings. Though they can be more complicated to maintain, gardens mixed with flowers and other vegetables tend to have fewer pest issues. Some specific crops, like Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), are especially noted for their ability to repel cabbage worms.

De Cicco Broccoli
De Cicco Broccoli

Harvesting Broccoli

After being transplanted into the garden, maturity typically ranges from 60 to 90 days, but it can vary. If you’re starting broccoli from seed rather than transplanting seedlings, you must add approximately 25 days to the maturity timeline. This accounts for the additional time it takes for broccoli plants to grow and mature from the seedling stage to full maturity.

Harvest your broccoli heads when they’re deep green and tightly packed. Those heads that have begun to flower or turn yellow should be harvested immediately or left for seed.

Don’t pull your broccoli right away after harvesting the main head. Side-sprouting varieties have smaller central heads with many side sprouts, a valuable feature for extended harvest.

Saving Seed from Broccoli

If you have a few heads that get past their prime, let them go to flower! Many pollinators love brassica flowers, and eventually, you will get seed.

Just know that broccoli will cross with any brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kohlrabi, and kale that’s flowering at the same time. Broccoli Raab will cross with Chinese cabbage, turnips, and some rapeseed (canola). Isolate by 1/8 mile for home use. For pure seed of small plantings, isolate by 1/4 to 1/2 mile.

Broccoli is a great, cold-hardy crop to have in your spring garden. Follow these tips for growing broccoli to help your plants thrive and produce beautiful heads this season!

Growing Eggplants: Tips for Success

Homegrown eggplants are tender, mild, and perfect for summer grilling or classic recipes like eggplant parmesan, baba ganoush, and ratatouille. These heat-loving vegetables can be tricky to grow, though. After years of growing eggplants, we’ve compiled some tips for success.

The Basics

Start your eggplants indoors 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost, and harden them off outdoors for 1 to 2 weeks before transplanting. Plant your eggplants in a sunny location with well-drained soil. Space them equidistant 24 inches apart or 20 inches apart in rows 30 inches apart.

Tips for Success

Eggplants can be challenging to grow, but these tips will ensure success.

Avoid setting plants out too early.

Eggplant seedlings are susceptible to cold temperatures. Attempting to harden them off too early can shock your plants and stunt their growth. If a late cold snap occurs, bring them outdoors during the day, but keep bringing them in at night until the temperature warms.

Garden beds with row cover
Row cover protecting White Beauty Eggplant from flea beetles.

Keep pests off your seedlings.

Young eggplants are highly susceptible to pest pressure, especially flea beetles. There are a few different methods you can use to protect your seedlings.

  • Harden seedlings off on a table at least 3 feet tall. Few issues occur at this height.
  • Use organic control methods like pyrethrum or diatomaceous earth.
  • Cut the bottoms off 1-gallon milk jugs and place them over the seedlings with the lids off.
  • Use row cover to protect young eggplants and remove it just before flowering to allow pollinators to reach the blooms.

Older eggplants require less protection. They can still produce well even with quite a bit of flea beetle damage on their leaves.

Feed your eggplants.

Eggplants enjoy fertile soil that’s rich in organic matter. Adding several inches of finished compost to your bed before planting can encourage good production. You can also mix a bit of compost into your transplant holes.

If you’re growing eggplants in containers, giving them a bit of extra nutrition is a good idea, especially when they’re flowering and setting fruit. You can use an organic vegetable fertilizer or make your own compost tea. 

Provide support for eggplants.

Eggplants loaded with fruit are prone to lodging or falling over. Set up stakes, tomato cages, or other supports early to ensure your plants don’t lodge later. Securing the plants while they’re still small will prevent you from damaging them or knocking off fruit later. 

Keep the soil moist.

Eggplants produce best when they have moist soil but not soggy soil. Check the soil and water regularly to keep it consistently moist for best production.

Louisiana Long Green (Green Banana) EggplantApply mulch.

Mulching around your plants can help suppress weeds, keep the soil moist, and add additional organic matter. We like to mulch around eggplants with an organic mulch like straw or old leaves.

Harvest your eggplants regularly. 

Regular harvesting will encourage your eggplants to keep producing. We find that the small fruits have the best eating quality. Eggplants are ripe when the skin appears glossy, and the fruit is resilient to thumb pressure. When your eggplants mature, harvest them by clipping the stem with scissors or garden snips. 

Rotate your eggplants and other crops.

Eggplants can be affected by many of the same diseases, like verticillium wilt, that affect other nightshades, such as tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes. Rotate your crops yearly and avoid growing any nightshades in the same plot for at least two years.

Eggplants are tasty, beautiful additions to the summer garden. They can be fun to grow, too! Even beginners can succeed with eggplants if you follow a few simple tips.