10 Season Extension Techniques

Season extension is a fundamental element of small vegetable farms across the nation, but we’re beginning to see it more and more in backyard gardens and homesteads, too! Hoophouses, high tunnels, low tunnels, row covers, cold frames, and mulches can offer amazing benefits no matter your growing scale. 

In much of the Southeast, hot summers limit the production of cool-weather crops like kale, spinach, pak choi, cauliflower, and spring radishes. Using season extension can allow you to grow more of these crops during the fall, winter, and spring.

Growing on these “off-seasons” comes with other benefits, too. Crops growing in these cooler seasons may struggle less with pests, diseases, and drought. It can also be more enjoyable for you. Instead of working in the garden on muggy summer mornings when it’s 80°F in the shade, you can enjoy fall’s cool, crisp days. 

While frost dates become less critical with season extension, you still need to think about day length. No matter how warm your soil stays, your plants won’t grow at the same speed with fewer hours of sunlight. You may see a dramatic difference in growth rates as you dip from 12 hours of daylight in early fall to 9 hours in December. young alliums

Sow your bulb onions in cold frames or under row cover between September and February.

In the Southeast, getting good production from bulb onions is challenging. We’ve found that giving them time to put on growth in the winter and early spring is critical to large bulbs. They need plenty of time to bulb up before the heat of summer signals them to go dormant for the season.

Continue sowing cold weather crops in hoops and high tunnels throughout the fall and winter.

Lettuce in the hoophouse at Twin Oaks
Lettuce in the hoophouse at Twin Oaks

It’s possible to have a four-season garden. You can continue sowing cool-season crops like mustard greens, spinach, and chard right through the winter. Their growth is slower due to the limited daylight, but it will pick up as the days lengthen.

Depending on your zone, your crops will need different levels of protection. Growers in the deep south may get away with light row cover, while those in northern areas and the mountains will need additional protection. For very cold areas, sowing in a high tunnel or hoop house and then adding row cover on hoops over the crops within the high tunnel provides an excellent buffer.

Lay shade cloth over beds for a week to cool the soil before sowing cool-season crops.

In the Southeast, summer temperatures rarely cool off when we think they should. Often, it’s still hot when we’re trying to sow certain fall crops that take a bit longer to mature. It’s a balancing act between temperature and available day length. 

Laying shade cloth over the beds for a week or two can help cool the soil and encourage crops to germinate. We may use this technique with crops like lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, and carrots. 

Start early spring greens under low tunnels and switch to shade cloth later.

Low tunnels or row cover over hoops can allow us to enjoy salad season a bit early and keep enjoying it longer. Start your spring greens beneath plastic or thick row cover when the weather is still cold. This can be removed as the season warms, but don’t remove the hoops yet!

As spring heats up and turns to summer, you can use shade cloth over the hoops to provide a bit of heat protection. This will help you get more season from your greens before they bolt. 

Overwinter biennial vegetables in a hoop house or low tunnel for seed production.

We usually recommend that new seed savers start with easy annual crops like corn, beans, cucumbers, and tomatoes. As you move along your seed-saving journey, you may want to work with biennial crops, too. Biennials are crops that produce seed in their second year of life. Therefore, they must survive the winter to produce seed. Some common biennials include hollyhocks, beets, carrots, and leeks.

We give these crops some winter protection to help ensure that they survive to produce seed the following year. Growing them in a high tunnel or placing a low tunnel over them in the fall can help ensure success. 

Use high tunnels or hoop houses to start seeds.

While some crops are highly sensitive to temperature and need to be started somewhere warm, other crops can be started in a hoop house and transplanted into other beds later. Good examples are cabbage, bunching onions, and lettuce. 

You can also use your tunnel to harden off seedlings, such as peppers and tomatoes, that you plan on transplanting into it anyway.

Hoop house with woman harvesting ranunculus
Clara Osbourne, owner and farmer of Pasture Song Farm in Chester County, PA, harvests organic ranunculus for spring bouquets photo by Zoe Schaeffer

Grow early flowers.

We often think of season extension for vegetables, but flower farmers use it, too. Planting into hoop houses or low tunnels can provide an abundance of early blooms for bouquets. 

Plant fall root crops into high or low tunnels for easy harvest through the winter.

Many dream of eating fresh from the garden year-round. Root crops like fall radishes, beets, and carrots planted in later summer and early fall can help make this a reality. They can be left in the ground and harvested as needed throughout the winter. Unlike summer roots, which may turn woody and tough if left in the ground too long, winter roots will stay sweet and crisp for months. 

Keep row cover on hand for unpredictable frosts.

Frosts don’t always come on schedule. Keeping row cover on hand can help you cope with early or late frosts. It can be draped over stakes or hoops to protect crops or even draped over fruit trees to help protect early blossoms from a late freeze. 

Plant warm-season crops one month early in your hoop house.

Many farmers find that they can plant cucumbers, tomatoes, and other warm-season crops into high tunnels or hoop houses a month before they can transplant them into the field. Setting up a small hoop house this fall may help you achieve early production of your favorite summer vegetables.

 

Using row cover can improve production in various ways. Learn more about how we use row cover to protect our crops from pests and diseases and isolate pollination, too!

Should I Till This Fall?

Many of you are ready to step back and take a well-earned break from the garden at this point in the year. Still, we often get the question, “Should I till this fall?” Many of our dedicated gardeners continue searching for ways to improve their soil and production. Unfortunately, there’s never a one-size-fits-all approach to gardening. Here are some things you may want to consider before doing any fall tilling or garden clean-up.

Benefits of Fall Tilling

Fall tilling and clean-up serve two primary functions:

  • Removing and destroying diseased or pest-ridden plant material.
  • Preparing soil for the next planting.

While there are some benefits to letting plant material decompose right in the garden, it is best to remove any diseased material and to till the bed. If your bed was infected with tomato fungal disease like blight or your squash plants were covered in vine borers, clean up is a good idea. Remove and, if possible, burn any affected material and till the bed. Tilling helps remove overwintering sites for some insects and can reduce the insect population in the bed.

Some folks also like to till to prepare for their next planting. This may be garlic, perennial onions, cover crops you hope to put in this fall, or early crops you want to get in the ground next spring. Fall-tilled gardens tend to dry out and warm up more quickly, allowing for earlier planting of cool-season crops in the spring.

Of course, fall tilling has a few downsides, and there are some alternative methods of bed preparation, both of which we’ll discuss below.Field of fireflies

Issues with Fall Tilling

Tilling may be the right answer for some gardens, but it comes with a few potential downsides that should be considered:

  • Tilling disrupts soil structure and can harm beneficial insects, fungi, and bacteria.
  • Bare, tilled soil is more susceptible to erosion and nutrient loss.
  • Bare soil provides little habitat for beneficial insects, fungi, and bacteria.
  • Bare soil, particularly clay, is more vulnerable to compaction.
  • Leaving soil bare means a lost opportunity to improve soil over the winter.

If you decide it’s best to till your garden this fall, you can minimize the negative impacts. While little can be done about disrupting the soil structure, you can protect your soil after tilling.

Most of the issues listed above occur when soil is left bare over the winter. You can cover your beds with mulch like old leaves and straw to combat these issues. These help reduce compaction and erosion, provide habitat for beneficial insects, insulate the soil, and add organic matter as they break down. As temperatures start to climb in spring, you can rake back the mulch to allow the bed to warm up.

While mulch is helpful, our favorite method for winter soil care is planting cover crops. Cover crops are easy to grow and have many benefits, from reducing erosion to improving fertility. Our recent post, Soil Season: Winter Cover Crops, digs deeper into their benefits and how you can select a cover crop appropriate for your garden. 

You may also want to consider leaving other areas in your yard “wild.” So many amazing creatures depend on it. For example, female fireflies lay their eggs in damp, undisturbed soil and leaves. After hatching, the larvae spend several years to several months in the soil, feeding on slugs, snails, and other insects.

Alternative Bed Preparation

Today, we see more organic growers opting for no-till or low-till techniques. Skipping the tiller can be simple for small beds and may benefit soil structure and beneficial organisms. 

To begin, rake all the crop residue and any mulch off the bed. Depending on your needs and setup, this material can be burned, composted, or left to break down in a path. 

Then, you may want to loosen the soil. Without a tiller, you can use a broad fork or garden fork to lift the soil without turning it over. Simply plunge the fork in and tilt the hand back, pulling the soil upward before moving to the next spot. 

Generally, if you’re getting ready to plant right away, we recommend adding about 2 inches of finished compost to the top of the bed. Then, you can plant your garlic, Austrian winter peas, perennial onions, or other fall crops.

If your bed is brand new, you may want to stick to tilling for the first season or use a permaculture method like hugelkultur or lasagna gardening.

To till or not to till? Finding the right solution for your garden can be tough. Hopefully, this information will help you make the right choice so that you can protect your soil and have productive gardens this fall and next spring. 

Hurricane Relief: Resources for Farmers & Growers

Hurricane Helene has devastated much of the Southeast. SESE’s headquarters escaped unscathed, but we are deeply saddened by the loss of life and the damage to family farms. We rounded up some resources designed to help farmers and growers as we head into recovery. 

One of the most important things you need to do is document the damage. Gather evidence before beginning any clean-up. If possible, document damage with dated photographs, videos, and third-party verification (non-family if possible). This information can help you get the aid you deserve from various resources.

Keep notes on your damage, expenses, and repairs. Track:

  • Damage
  • Necessary repairs
  • Costs associated with repairs
  • Receipts for anything repair-related

If possible, put off repairs until you receive approval from the Farm Service Agency (FSA). Document any emergency repairs you must make, like fencing repairs for livestock. 

Monitor Livestock Carefully

Any livestock exposed to flood waters should be monitored carefully in the coming weeks, even if they appear fine right now. Bacteria in flood waters can cause skin conditions and infections. 

USDA Resources

Find and connect with your local USDA office here.

The USDA has a number of programs designed to help farmers recover from hurricane damage. Here are some of the ones you can look into:

Noninsured Crop Disaster Assistance Program (NAP)

NAP provides financial assistance when natural disasters cause low crop yields, crop loss, or delayed planting for uninsured crops.

~Apply for NAP~

Tree Assistance Program (TAP)

TAP assists orchardists and nursery growers in replanting or rehabilitating eligible trees, bushes, and vines damaged by natural disasters.

~Apply for TAP~

Emergency Assistance for Livestock, Honey Bees, and Farm-raised Fish (ELAP)

ELAP provides financial assistance to qualifying farmers who have lost animals, honeybees, or farm-raised fish during certain natural disasters. 

~Apply for ELAP~

Livestock Indemnity Program (LIP)

LIP provides assistance to farmers who have had an excess of livestock deaths due to natural disasters. LIP payments are equal to 75 percent of the average fair market value of the livestock.

~Apply for LIP~

The Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP)

EQIP is a conservation program that provides financial and technical assistance to farmers, ranchers, and forest landowners to integrate conservation into working lands. It may be used for hurricane recovery in several ways, including obstruction removal, clearing and snagging, land smoothing, repair of access roads, and repair of fences for prescribed grazing and protecting sensitive areas.

~Apply EQIP~

Emergency Forest Restoration Program (EFRP)

EFRP is designed to help landowners restore forest health damaged by natural disasters.

~Apply for EFRP~

Apply for FEMA

FEMA isn’t specifically for farmers, but it can help anyone, including farmers, with serious issues like displacement, temporary lodging, basic home repair costs, personal property loss, or other disaster-caused needs. 

There are several ways to apply: Go online to DisasterAssistance.gov, use the FEMA App, or call 800-621-3362 from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. ET daily. The telephone line is open daily, and help is available in most languages. If you use a relay service, such as Video Relay Service (VRS), captioned telephone, or other service, give FEMA your number for that service.

To view an accessible video on how to apply, visit Three Ways to Apply for FEMA Disaster Assistance – YouTube.

RAFI (Rural Advancement Foundation International)

RAFI has information about farm emergency preparedness and disaster relief for farms affected by natural disasters. Visit their website.

Appalachian Sustainable Development Resource Page

Appalachian Sustainable Development has a developed a list of Emergency Resources that is available on their website.

Assistance for the Carolinas

Carolina Farm Stewardship Association

The Carolina Farm Stewardship Association has put together a running list of resources that may help growers in the Carolinas and beyond move forward with recovery. Be sure to check back in as they update their list.

~Check out CFSA Resources~

Meade Tractor

See the full description under Virginia heading to apply for equipment assistance. 

Florida Farm Relief

The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS) offers low-interest or interest-free loans to agricultural and aquaculture producers with damage from natural disasters. 

They are now accepting applications for producers who experienced damage in Hurricane Helene or Hurricane Debby.

~Apply for a Recover Loan~

Georgia Farm Relief

Georgia Department of Agriculture

Georgia Agriculture Commissioner Tyler Harper has sent a letter asking Georgia’s congressional delegation to immediately provide aid to farmers. In the letter, he requests federal aid through a Block Grant to the State of Georgia rather than the pre-existing relief programs. Hopefully, we hear more soon. 

~The Georgia Agriculture Department~

Tennessee Farm Relief 

The University of Tennessee Extension has compiled a list of resources to assist farmers and individuals in Tennessee impacted by Hurricane Helene. They also encourage all farmers to contact their county extension agency. 

~Flood Resources~

Virginia Farm Aid

Smyth County Virginia Cooperative Extension

The extension encourages Smyth County farmers to contact them on Facebook and report losses, including hay, fences, barns, animals, etc. They ask that you include your name, address, description of loss, approximate value, and whether you had insurance. 

121 Bagley Circle, Suite 434, Marion, VA 24354 – 276-783-5175

~Find them on Facebook~

Meade Tractor

Meade Tractor has started a Crisis Response Program for farmers affected by flooding in Asheville, NC, Tri-Cities, TN, and Southwest Virginia. The program provides access to a fleet of tractors, loaders, and other essential equipment at no cost to impacted farmers and on-site training from Meade Tractor’s skilled team to ensure the equipment’s safe and efficient operation.

~Apply for Assistance~

This information has been gathered from other state, federal, and organization websites. SESE does not work with or support these programs. All of their decisions are their own. The hope is to gather helpful resources for folks. We will update this list as we come across more information in the coming weeks.

How Can I Help?

If you want to donate money, supplies, or your time to hurricane relief efforts, check in with the Carolina Farm Stewardship Association. They have created a Running Resources list including some great ways you can get involved. 

Saving the Past for the Future