Tag Archives: soil health

The Best Organic Mulch for Your Garden

Organic mulch can help block weeds, add organic matter, hold in moisture, keep the soil cool, and increase your garden’s production. We’ve found that mulch is one of the best ways to improve soil over time. Like us, many of our customers garden in heavy clay soils where mulch is helpful for slowly building up organic matter. It’s also been critical for reducing our water usage when much of the Southeast has been in drought. If you want to add mulch to your garden this season, there are many options to consider.

The Best Mulches for Vegetable Gardens

The best mulch for your garden will depend on several factors. You want to consider your climate, your soil, and what’s readily available in your area.

Grass Clippings

If you have a mower with a bagger, grass clippings can be an excellent free option. They’re great for adding organic matter and a bit of nitrogen to the soil. While they’re decomposing, grass clippings can form thick, slimy mats. If you’re worried about this, dry your grass clippings in the sun for a couple of days, flipping the pile over with a rake a few times before placing them on your beds.

Avoid using grass clippings from lawns that may have been treated with pesticides or herbicides. It’s also best to avoid long, overgrown lawns that are full of grass and weed seed heads.

Old Leaves

Old leaves are one of our favorites because in our area, they are free and abundant. However, whole leaves have a tendency to blow away during dry periods. Shredding them or allowing them to decompose partially before applying them to the garden can help keep them in place.

Many cities have people collect leaves in bags, and you can sometimes get these for free. However, you risk that the leaves may be contaminated with herbicides or other chemicals on someone’s lawn.

Straw

Many gardeners prefer straw for their vegetable gardens. It’s attractive, easy to apply, and keeps produce like cucumbers and squash clean and dry. It’s also pleasant to walk on and usually isn’t treated with any chemicals.

The one major downside of straw is the price. Depending on your location and the size of your garden, using straw mulch can get expensive fast.alliums in hay mulch

Hay

Usually more affordable than straw, hay is a similarly popular choice for vegetable gardeners, especially those looking to build up organic matter. It can provide a dense layer to protect the soil and keep produce clean.

Unfortunately, most hay harbors weed seeds, which can sprout in your garden. You can help prevent the seeds from germinating by using a thick layer and re-applying two to three times throughout the season.

Sadly, the prevalent use of herbicides and pesticides across the United States can also make sourcing clean hay tricky. Some gardeners have had contaminated hay ruin their gardens.

Pine Needles or Pine Straw

Pine needles or pine straw is a popular mulch option in parts of the southern United States and other regions where pine forests are common. While many gardeners worry about it making their soil more acidic, old dried pine needles have a negligible effect on soil pH.

However, pine needles take a while to break down, meaning that they don’t add organic matter to the soil quickly. That said, if you have an abundance, they’re still a good option.

Avoid purchasing artificial pine straw mulch. It isn’t real pine needles; it’s made from shredded plastic and you shouldn’t use it in a vegetable garden.

Paper/Cardboard

Paper and cardboard are a common base layer in new vegetable gardens to block weeds, but you’ll want to select them carefully. Some cardboard and paper options may contain toxic dyes, glue, staples, plastic tape, or plastic linings. Use only undyed material and carefully remove and staples or tape before placing it in the garden.

Thick cardboard can also provide a pleasant spot for slugs to hide beneath. If you’re seeing signs of slug damage, check under the cardboard in the morning and remove any slugs.Rows of collards growing in wood chip mulch

Wood Chips

Though not everyone agrees, wood chips are another of our favorites, especially for pathways and perennial beds. You can often source wood chips for free from local power companies that chip trees and limbs they clear from power line right-of-ways. They make a good mulch that breaks down slowly over the season, meaning we don’t have to re-apply too often.

One concern many gardeners have is that wood chips will tie up nitrogen. However, this isn’t really an issue unless you’re tilling the wood chips into the soil. They don’t tie up nitrogen when they’re sitting on top. They can also create homes for insects like slugs or ants, but they provide space for beneficial insects, bacteria, and fungi. In fact, many gardeners grow edible mushrooms on wood chip mulch.

While usually more expensive, shredded, undyed bark mulch also works well.

Using Mulch in the Vegetable Garden

Always collect more mulch than you think you will need. In order for mulch to provide its many benefits, from blocking weeds to adding organic matter, it needs to be thick. For dense mulches like wood chips, a few inches will do, but for light, fluffy mulches like old leaves, you want to add at least 6 to 8 inches.

Before placing mulch, it’s ideal to start with a clean slate and remove any weeds. After adding your mulch, water it in. Alternatively, you can place it on a rainy day.

Avoid placing mulch over seeds that haven’t germinated or covering tiny seedlings. In wet climates, don’t pile mulch over plant crowns or up against plant stems, as it can encourage rot.

If you have slug problems, pull mulch away from plants for a time to remove the hiding places for slugs while you deal with the issue.

10 Tips to Prepare the Garden for Winter

The summer garden season is coming to a close. While we’re still working on certain projects like sowing bulb onions in cold frames and tending high tunnels of salad greens, we’re also resetting the garden for next spring. Even if you live in a warm, southern climate, there are still a few ways you can prepare your garden for winter. Here are ten tips to prepare your garden for winter and a great season next year.

1. Harvest or prepare to harvest warm-season crops before frost. 

If you still have eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, or squash in your garden, watch the weather carefully. If a light frost is in the forecast, cover them with old sheets of row cover. When a hard frost is in the forecast, it’s time to pull in the harvest. 

Our peppers are still thriving in the fall. We typically get an extra 1 to 2 weeks by covering them at night. Before the first killing frost, we uproot plants and place the roots in a bucket of water, storing them in a cool location, which can extend the harvest by 1 month.

Some tomatoes will ripen off the vine, and there are also many ways to use green tomatoes. Enjoy your eggplant and summer squash, or blanch and freeze them. Don’t forget to cure winter squash and pumpkins before putting them in storage.

Minnie Mizelle Collards in a greenhouse
Minnie Mizelle Collards

2. Prepare biennials for winter to save seed next season.

Biennial plants don’t produce seeds until their second year. If you want to save seed from your favorite biennial crops like cabbages, collards, beets, carrots, and hollyhocks, you’ll need to overwinter them. 

Many biennial crops can survive temperatures into the 20°Fs. If you live in a mild climate, you may be able to overwinter them right in the field or in a tunnel. They benefit from some cover, even just frost cloth and low tunnels. Place a thick layer of mulch over their roots.

In colder climates, you’ll have to store the crops indoors in damp peat moss or similar material over the winter before transplanting them out in spring. 

Learn more about saving seed from biennial crops. 

3. Put away garden supplies.

All of your garden gear will last longer if you keep it out of the winter weather. Do a garden tidy day and take down any trellises, move tools under cover, and put away irrigation tape, hoses, and landscape fabric.

Victoria Rhubarb Plants in a bed
Victoria Rhubarb

4. Mark perennials.

It’s easy to forget where you planted perennials. Go around your garden and place stakes to mark perennials like echinacea, asparagus, and rhubarb so you don’t accidentally disturb them next spring. 

5. Cover any bare soil.

Ground cover helps protect soil and beneficial microbes from erosion and freeze thaw cycles. It can also reduce weed pressure in early spring. Depending on your climate, you may be able to sow a winter cover crop. You can also mulch your soil with straw, leaf litter, grass clippings, brother natural materials. A dead flowerhead covered in frost

6. Leave standing flowers for pollinators and birds.

Many pollinators and beneficial insects overwinter in dead plant material. Songbirds will also gather seeds from dead flower heads during the winter. Leaving the flower stalks of plants like rudbeckia, dara, echinacea, and sunflowers standing in the garden can help provide a home for insects like solitary bees and food for birds like chickadees. 

7. Remove and burn or dispose of diseased or pest-ridden plant material.

While we love leaving some patches of dead flowers standing, you should always remove any plants that had issues with pests or diseases. This applies to crops that are disease-prone in your area, even if they were fine this season. Common examples include tomatoes with late blight, asparagus stalks with asparagus beetles, cucumbers with downy mildew, or hollyhock stalks with rust. 

8. Build up your compost pile.

Compost piles can keep working through the winter even in surprisingly cold climates. The key to making compost in winter is having a large enough pile to generate and retain heat. Build up your compost pile this fall and early winter by sourcing various brown or carbon-rich and green or nitrogen-rich material. Great examples include grass clippings, fallen leaves, plain brown cardboard, coffee grounds, jack-o’-lanterns, sawdust, seaweed, and wood chips.

9. Get a soil test.

A soil test will pinpoint exactly what nutrients your garden needs. Many people opt for a soil test in the spring, but it’s fine to collect soil samples in the fall. It also means you’ll get your results back much quicker. Laboratories often take weeks to process samples in the spring when they’re overrun with orders. A fall soil sample will get you quick results so you can start building healthy soil during the winter and early spring, depending on your climate.

10. Create a garden map. 

While you’re enjoying the fall weather, take a walk through your garden and sketch out this season’s layout. Keeping a record of what you planted where this season and some quick notes about how each crop performed can help you plan your layout for next season.

Gardening slows down in the fall, but it never comes to a complete halt. Preparing your garden for winter with these ten tips can help you get great production next season.

Summer Cover Crops

Cover cropping is an incredibly beneficial practice for anyone who gardens. It helps improve the soil, protect the environment, attract pollinators, and so much more. Unfortunately, most gardeners think of cover cropping as a practice for the off season. However, summer cover crops have a lot of unique benefits and you can work them into your garden without giving up any production. 

Benefits of Summer Cover Crops

Summer cover crops can help improve your soil health and production during the season. They also help protect your garden and the environment in several essential ways.

Reduce erosion. Usually associated with fall and winter storms, erosion isn’t a major focus in summer, but it can happen any time of year. It’s a critical issue in the United States. Scientists estimate that we’ve lost 30% of our topsoil in the past 200 years. 

In summer, all it takes is a strong thunderstorm rolling through to wash away loose soil or drying winds picking up soil particles. You should never leave your soil bare. 

Erosion doesn’t just negatively affect your garden health, it has significant impacts on the ecosystem. Eroded sediment and nutrients end up in streams, rivers, and eventually the ocean, where they can cloud waters and cause toxic algae blooms.

Having cover crops on the soil also allows for better water infiltration and soil structure which can help you create a more drought resistant garden. 

Suppress weeds. Weeds are at their most aggressive in summer, which is why it’s a key time to get ahead of them with cover crops. Quick growing cover crops can crowd out and shade weeds, suppressing them for later vegetable crops. 

Some cover crops like buckwheat and sorghum sudangrass also release chemicals to prevent the germination or growth of weed in a phenomenon called allelopathy.

You can also kill the cover crops through rolling or mulching and leave them on the surface as mulch. Then transplant crops into the mulched bed. The mulch will continue suppressing weeds as it breaks down.

Attract beneficial wildlife and insects. Beneficial animals and insects are some of the gardener’s best allies. Some like hummingbirds, flies, bees, and butterflies pollinate crops. Others like swallows, bluebirds, toads, wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and wheel bugs feed on common garden pests, keeping their populations low. A few, like earthworms, millipedes, and pill bugs, help break down organic matter, improving soil structure. 

None of these animals or insects thrive in areas with bare soil. Sowing cover crops provides cover and food sources. Some cover crops like buckwheat and hairy vetch also have flowers that may help attract predatory wasps, bees, and other pollinators. 

Fix nitrogen. Certain cover crops are nitrogen fixers. These plants have a symbiotic relationship with specific bacteria. The bacteria colonize the plant’s roots and pull nitrogen out of the atmosphere. The bacteria use the nitrogen and then it becomes available to the plant.

These nitrogen-fixing plants include a few summer cover crops like southern peas, soybeans, buckwheat, sunn hemp, and hairy vetch. 

To make the nitrogen available to your next crop, the cover crop needs to die and decompose. Depending on the crop, you can kill it by cutting it, tilling it under, tarping it, or waiting for frost to kill it in the fall.

Add organic matter. Fast-growing summer cover crops are a great way to add tons of biomass to the soil. As they break down, they add organic matter, which improves soil structure, increases water infiltration, provides nutrients, and increases microbial and beneficial insect activity. 

Impact plant diseases. In some cases, summer cover crops may help disrupt disease cycles in the garden. Some research has shown reductions in blight in no-till, cover crop gardens. Pearl Millet Summer Cover Crop

How to Work Summer Cover Crops into Your Garden Plan

You don’t need to give up production to grow summer cover crops! There are several ways you can squeeze cover crops into the summer garden without sacrificing your vegetables.

Use pathways. If your garden has pathway space, you can take advantage of it by sowing it in a cover crop like white clover which will tolerate some traffic. You can mow the paths and apply it as mulch under other crops.

Interplant. You can also interplant cover crops. Strips of clover, vetch, and other cover crop can have amazing benefits. According to the North Carolina State Extension, “research in Georgia reported high densities of big-eyed bugs, lady bugs, and other beneficial insects in vetches and clovers.” They also found that, “assassin bugs have destroyed Colorado Potato Beetle feeding on eggplant planted into strip-tilled crimson clover.”

You can grow some cover crops in between other crops. Plant soy beans or southern peas beneath tall crops like corn or sunflowers. You can also grow fast-growing cover crops like buckwheat between hills of vining crops like winter squash or melons. Cut the buckwheat as the vine start to sprawl and use it as mulch. 

Pull unproductive crops immediately. If your lettuce has bolted, radishes have gone woody, or beans are slowing down, consider pulling them and sowing a summer cover crop. While letting lettuce flower and beans decompose naturally may provide some minor benefits, using a cover crop is a more productive use of the space. 

Beat the heat. In the Deep South, the hottest days of summer can limit vegetable production. Rather than fighting the heat to eek out more production, you may just want to avoid it. For some crops like brassicas, greens, bush beans, and cucumbers, you can get plenty of production in the early summer and fall.

Take well-earned breaks. If you find your garden is getting away from you and your summer is busier than expected, it may be worth sowing a cover crop rather than another succession. A cover crop will essentially take care of its self while improving your soil for another crop in the fall or next season. Sometimes this is more productive than sowing more beans, squash, or other vegetables you won’t have the time to weed, harvest, and preserve.

Buckwheat spring cover crops in bloom

How to Select a Summer Cover Crop

All summer cover crops have their pros and cons. What cover crop you should choose will be based on a few factors:

  • Time Available
    It’s easiest to choose and appropriate cover crop when you have a good garden plan. Maybe you want a heat tolerant cover crop to grow for 30 days in the middle of summer in between squash plantings. Buckwheat may work in this scenario. Maybe you have an empty bed 80 days before your first frost and want a cover crop that will die back and allow you to plant fall garlic. Sunn Hemp could be a good choice.
  • Frost Tolerance
    Some summer cover crops like buckwheat, are frost sensitive and will die with the first frost in fall. Others, like clover and oats, will continue to grow.
  • Nitrogen Fixation
    If your next crop is a heavy feeder like broccoli, corn, garlic, onions, or tomatoes, choosing a nitrogen fixer like sunn hemp, hairy vetch, clover, soy beans, or southern peas is a great option.
  • Biomass Production
    If adding organic matter to the soil is a priority, you’ll want to choose a cover crop that quickly puts on a lot of biomass. One of the best options is sunn hemp which can reach 6 feet tall in 60 days. Other good options include buckwheat, millet, sorghum sudangrass, vetch, oats, and barley.

Here are a few summer cover crops you may consider. Listed with each are some of their important features. 

Buckwheat

  • Blooms and is ready for incorporation in 30 to 45 days.
  • Fast growing.
  • Frost sensitive.  
  • Flowers attract bees and parasitic wasps. 
  • Tender stems are easy to cut down.
  • Deep root system is adept at mining subsurface minerals.

Pearl Millet

  • Ready for incorporation in 40 to 60 days.
  • Grows well in acidic soil and poor soil.
  • Thrives in warm climates.
  • Drought tolerant.
  • Excellent biomass producer growing 3 to 6 feet.
  • Frost sensitive.

Sunn Hemp

  • Ready for incorporation in 60 to 90 days.
  • Fast growing and excellent producer of organic matter (may reach 6 feet).
  • Nitrogen fixing.
  • Frost sensitive.
  • Suppresses nematodes.
  • Thrives in hot climates.
  • Tolerates drought.
  • Extract nutrients from deep within subsoil. 

Soy Beans

  • Ready for incorporation in 45 to 60 days.
  • Fast growing. 
  • Tolerates hot weather.
  • Nitrogen fixing.

Southern Peas

  • Ready for incorporation in 50 to 60 days.
  • Vigorous.
  • Drought tolerant.
  • Nitrogen fixing.
  • Sprawling vines.

Sorghum Sudangrass

  • Ready for incorporation in 60-70 days.
  • Suppresses weeds.
  • Suppresses nematodes.
  • Loosens subsoil and reduces compaction.
  • Excellent biomass producer growing 5 to 12 feet tall.
  • Provides habitat for beneficial insects like lacewings.
  • Requires a large mower and is tough to cut with hand tools. 

Oats 

  • Ideal for late summer and early fall planting.
  • Grows quickly.
  • Produces plenty of biomass or mulch.
  • Frost hardy.
  • Oats will get winter-killed when temperatures drop below 10°F.
  • In cold climates, it makes an excellent mulch for spring crops and in arm climates you can cut it in spring.

Barley

  • Ideal for late summer and early fall planting.
  • Frost hardy.
  • Drought tolerant. 
  • Barley will get winter-killed when temperatures drop below 17°F.
  • In cold climates, it makes an excellent mulch for spring crops and in warm climates you can cut it in spring.

Hairy Vetch

  • Ideal sowing period from August 1st to November 1st. 
  • Highly efficient as a nitrogen fixer, it’s recommended to wait until at least 50% of the plants have flowered before mowing the crop to maximize nitrogen fixation. 
  • In the spring, after flowering starts, mow the vetch and transplant tomatoes or other large plants directly into it, or till it under.

Clover

  • Cold tolerant perennial.
  • Versatile and may be sown in winter, spring, late summer, or fall.
  • Excellent for suppressing weed growth.
  • Nitrogen fixing. 
  • Attracts beneficial insects.
  • Acts as a living mulch in paths or between rows.

Creating a sustainable, productive garden means that we’re focusing on soil health year round. As you plant and plan your garden this season, think about where you may be able to sneak in a few summer cover crops.