Tag Archives: soil building

The Best Organic Mulch for Your Garden

Organic mulch can help block weeds, add organic matter, hold in moisture, keep the soil cool, and increase your garden’s production. We’ve found that mulch is one of the best ways to improve soil over time. Like us, many of our customers garden in heavy clay soils where mulch is helpful for slowly building up organic matter. It’s also been critical for reducing our water usage when much of the Southeast has been in drought. If you want to add mulch to your garden this season, there are many options to consider.

The Best Mulches for Vegetable Gardens

The best mulch for your garden will depend on several factors. You want to consider your climate, your soil, and what’s readily available in your area.

Grass Clippings

If you have a mower with a bagger, grass clippings can be an excellent free option. They’re great for adding organic matter and a bit of nitrogen to the soil. While they’re decomposing, grass clippings can form thick, slimy mats. If you’re worried about this, dry your grass clippings in the sun for a couple of days, flipping the pile over with a rake a few times before placing them on your beds.

Avoid using grass clippings from lawns that may have been treated with pesticides or herbicides. It’s also best to avoid long, overgrown lawns that are full of grass and weed seed heads.

Old Leaves

Old leaves are one of our favorites because in our area, they are free and abundant. However, whole leaves have a tendency to blow away during dry periods. Shredding them or allowing them to decompose partially before applying them to the garden can help keep them in place.

Many cities have people collect leaves in bags, and you can sometimes get these for free. However, you risk that the leaves may be contaminated with herbicides or other chemicals on someone’s lawn.

Straw

Many gardeners prefer straw for their vegetable gardens. It’s attractive, easy to apply, and keeps produce like cucumbers and squash clean and dry. It’s also pleasant to walk on and usually isn’t treated with any chemicals.

The one major downside of straw is the price. Depending on your location and the size of your garden, using straw mulch can get expensive fast.alliums in hay mulch

Hay

Usually more affordable than straw, hay is a similarly popular choice for vegetable gardeners, especially those looking to build up organic matter. It can provide a dense layer to protect the soil and keep produce clean.

Unfortunately, most hay harbors weed seeds, which can sprout in your garden. You can help prevent the seeds from germinating by using a thick layer and re-applying two to three times throughout the season.

Sadly, the prevalent use of herbicides and pesticides across the United States can also make sourcing clean hay tricky. Some gardeners have had contaminated hay ruin their gardens.

Pine Needles or Pine Straw

Pine needles or pine straw is a popular mulch option in parts of the southern United States and other regions where pine forests are common. While many gardeners worry about it making their soil more acidic, old dried pine needles have a negligible effect on soil pH.

However, pine needles take a while to break down, meaning that they don’t add organic matter to the soil quickly. That said, if you have an abundance, they’re still a good option.

Avoid purchasing artificial pine straw mulch. It isn’t real pine needles; it’s made from shredded plastic and you shouldn’t use it in a vegetable garden.

Paper/Cardboard

Paper and cardboard are a common base layer in new vegetable gardens to block weeds, but you’ll want to select them carefully. Some cardboard and paper options may contain toxic dyes, glue, staples, plastic tape, or plastic linings. Use only undyed material and carefully remove and staples or tape before placing it in the garden.

Thick cardboard can also provide a pleasant spot for slugs to hide beneath. If you’re seeing signs of slug damage, check under the cardboard in the morning and remove any slugs.Rows of collards growing in wood chip mulch

Wood Chips

Though not everyone agrees, wood chips are another of our favorites, especially for pathways and perennial beds. You can often source wood chips for free from local power companies that chip trees and limbs they clear from power line right-of-ways. They make a good mulch that breaks down slowly over the season, meaning we don’t have to re-apply too often.

One concern many gardeners have is that wood chips will tie up nitrogen. However, this isn’t really an issue unless you’re tilling the wood chips into the soil. They don’t tie up nitrogen when they’re sitting on top. They can also create homes for insects like slugs or ants, but they provide space for beneficial insects, bacteria, and fungi. In fact, many gardeners grow edible mushrooms on wood chip mulch.

While usually more expensive, shredded, undyed bark mulch also works well.

Using Mulch in the Vegetable Garden

Always collect more mulch than you think you will need. In order for mulch to provide its many benefits, from blocking weeds to adding organic matter, it needs to be thick. For dense mulches like wood chips, a few inches will do, but for light, fluffy mulches like old leaves, you want to add at least 6 to 8 inches.

Before placing mulch, it’s ideal to start with a clean slate and remove any weeds. After adding your mulch, water it in. Alternatively, you can place it on a rainy day.

Avoid placing mulch over seeds that haven’t germinated or covering tiny seedlings. In wet climates, don’t pile mulch over plant crowns or up against plant stems, as it can encourage rot.

If you have slug problems, pull mulch away from plants for a time to remove the hiding places for slugs while you deal with the issue.

Biochar 101

Spend enough time reading about sustainable agriculture, and you’ll inevitably run into the word biochar. In recent years it has seen a surge in popularity and is often touted as an amazing, organic garden amendment. But what is biochar, and is it great for the garden? Today, we’ll dig into what biochar is, what it does to soil, how it’s made, and how indigenous farmers have utilized it for thousands of years.

What is Biochar?

Biochar is a type of charcoal made from biomass or plant material that has been burned or decomposed in a controlled, hot, low-oxygen process called pyrolysis. 

In other words, wood chips, leaf litter, twigs, dead plants, or other similar materials are burned in a container that allows very little oxygen to enter. This process produces little to no contaminating fumes.

Biochar is lightweight, highly porous, and has a large surface area. Biochar is approximately 70 percent carbon but contains nitrogen, hydrogen, and oxygen, among other elements depending on the materials. Its exact composition depends on the plant material and temperature and the time it was processed. The University of Tennessee Extension Service has some wonderful charts on Biochar effects and macronutrient contents.

The Benefits of Biochar

You can use biochar as a soil amendment or conditioner in your garden soil or containers. Biochar proponents recommend biochar for its benefits in the garden and the larger environment.

Biochar’s Soil Benefits

  • Biochar may increase cation exchange capacity (CEC), a measure of the soil’s ability to hold positively charged ions. CEC influences soil structure, nutrient availability, soil pH, and soil’s reaction to fertilizer and other amendments. 
  • Biochar may enhance water-holding capacity.
  • Biochar may increase soil surface area. 
  • Biochar may increase plant nutrient availability.
  • Biochar increases soil pH.

Biochar’s Environmental Benefits

  • Biochar sequesters carbon in the soil.
  • Biochar may increase agricultural productivity.
  • Biochar may help improve soil water filtration.

Biochar Origins: The Amazon Basin

Agriculture is one sphere where some of the greatest minds, particularly those of BIPOC folks, have never gotten the credit they deserve. Biochar is likely one of those cases.

When the Portuguese first began to explore and colonize the Amazon Basin, they were surprised to find sections of dark rich soils surrounded by common, less fertile Amazonian soil. They called these soils terra preta de índio or “Indians’ black earth.”

Unsurprisingly, Europeans did not immediately attribute these high-quality soils to the work of indigenous farmers. Instead, many Europeans thought they resulted from natural causes such as ash fall from Andean volcanoes or sediment from long-ago lakes and ponds.

Today, the content of these soils, which commonly includes tiny pottery shards, fishbones, and other residues from cooking and habitat, tells us otherwise. The indigenous peoples that called these lands home undoubtedly improved these soils with biochar and other amendments, probably beginning between 450 BCE and 950 CE. Through carefully crafted management, once-infertile soils had been made suitable for large-scale agriculture. 

Sadly, the descendants of these careful farmers were forced to give up their more agrarian lifestyles, probably in the 16th and 17th centuries, as they faced the effects of colonization. The peoples of this region were hard hit by introduced European diseases and violence, including Bandeirante slave-raiding.

To escape colonization, many likely took up a more nomadic lifestyle. Slash-and-char style agriculture may have been an adaptation of older farming techniques to cope with their migratory lifestyle. 

Each year, the soils in the Amazon basin are exposed to warm tropical temperatures and about 80 inches of rainfall. The fact that these incredible soils still exist today, after about 500 years, is a testament to the power and knowledge of indigenous farmers. 

A hand holding a piece of biochar in front of a barrel full of it
Homemade biochar

Making Biochar

Today, you can purchase biochar, but with a little time and effort, you can also make your own.

One of the simplest methods for making biochar is to do it right in the garden. Dig a trench in your garden bed and fill it with brush and plant material. Light this material on fire, and once it’s burning well, cover it with an inch or so of soil to reduce the available oxygen. This method is easy but also the least efficient way.

A slightly more efficient method is to place your material in some sort of closed container in a fire. You can do this with an old metal barrel, pot, or pan. Place your material in your container, then build a fire beneath and around the container to heat it.

Pyrolysis equipment is the most efficient route and is available for those who would like to produce large-scale or commercial biochar. Biochar.co.uk has some great information and resources for any level of biochar production you may be interested in. 

If you run a wood stove in winter, Edible Acres, a permaculture-focused Youtube Channel, also has an excellent video on experimenting with making biochar in a wood stove. 

Please check your local laws and regulations before doing any burning. Stay safe, always watch your fires, and always have a good water source immediately at hand.

Biochar can be a great way to improve your soils without paying for expensive truckloads of topsoil, fertilizer, or other amendments. Its properties and benefits may vary with each batch of biochar and the garden you use it in. Let us know in the comments if you’ve had success with biochar!

Can I Use Manure On My Garden?

An abundant source of manure can seem like garden gold, especially for those moving away from commercial fertilizers. Manure provides important nutrients, improves texture, and increases soils’ water-holding capacity. However, like anything else in gardening, manure isn’t always a perfect solution. Here are a few things you should know if you’re considering using manure on your garden.

Using Manure Properly

Manure may be full of nutrients, but it can also contain bacteria. Some of the bacteria in manure can be transmitted to humans via vegetables if it’s not properly handled and applied to the garden. While many small gardeners feel perfectly safe using manure, especially from their own livestock, you should still generally avoid using fresh manure around crops that may come into contact with the soil.

If you’re looking for good guidelines, the USDA National Organic Program has standards for handling fresh manure. These are especially important if you sell or hope to sell some of your produce.

USDA National Organic Program (NOP) Standards

The NOP has specific rules for when growers may apply non-composted manure to their gardens.

If you’re using manure on crops with an edible portion that may come into contact with the soil, you must apply the fresh manure 120 days before harvest. This rule includes vegetables that come into direct contact with the soil, like carrots and melons, and those that may come into contact with it from irrigation or rain splash, including leafy greens, peas, and beans.

Fresh manure can be incorporated into the soil up to 90 days before harvest for crops that don’t have an edible portion that touches the soil, like tree fruits and sweet corn.

Note that the 90- and 120-day restrictions apply only to food crops; they do not apply to fiber crops, cover crops, or crops used as livestock feed.

Avoid Run-Off

When applying fresh manure to gardens, you also want to avoid run-off. Manure running into local streams, storm drains, and other waterways can lead to excessive amounts of nitrogen and other nutrients in the water, which may cause toxic algal blooms. To help prevent and control run-off, you can plant cover crops, better incorporate the manure into the soil, and create berms or swales.

Composting Manure

Alternatively, you can compost your manure. To kill bacteria and pathogens in compost, you’ll need reasonably high composting temperatures, between 131-170°F (54-60°C), for several days. These temperatures will also kill parasites, weed seeds, and harmful fungi.

Herbicide Contaminated Manure

The widespread use of commercial herbicides has also presented another issue for gardeners. Manure from animals that have eaten hay or forage from fields that were treated with aminopyralid or related herbicides like clopyralid or picloram may be contaminated. Animals’ digestive systems do not filter these chemicals out. Therefore, adding their manure to gardens can severely damage legumes like beans and peas, solanaceous crops like tomatoes and peppers, and other broadleaf crops. You can check for herbicide residues at home with a bioassay test.

Seedlings (manure post)Bioassay Test

You’ll need 6 to 10 pots and seeds or seedlings to conduct a bioassay test. In its simplest form, you will check and see how seedlings grow in soil you know to be safe compared with how seedlings grow in soil mixed with the unknown manure.

Fill half of the pots with soil you know is good quality and free from herbicides, like soil from your own garden. Fill the other half of the pots with a one-to-one mixture of soil and manure. When you collect manure for this, take samples from different areas and depths in the pile and mix them together.

Then plant the same type of seed or transplant the same age and type of seedling in each pot. Observe their growth over the next three weeks. Make notes on the plant’s overall growth, including the leaves and roots. Watch for signs of stunted growth, discoloration, abnormal growth, curled leaves, root swelling, or stunting.

The North Carolina Extension Agency has further instructions for Bioassay tests and a helpful table covering some recommended bioassay species for residual herbicides and the expected injury symptoms.

Can I Use Pet Waste?

No, you should not use pet waste in the garden or compost it for use in the garden. Waste from cats and dogs may contain heavy metals, bacteria like E. Coli and Salmonella, as well as parasites like tapeworms and ringworms. 

If you need to get rid of pet waste, make a separate compost pile, and don’t use it on the garden.

If you have a pet rabbit, their waste is safe for the garden as long as you use compostable litter.

Can I Use Human Waste?

It sounds weird, as most of us in the United States have modern plumbing, but the idea of using human waste on crops isn’t new. Until about 400 years ago, adding human waste back to the soil was commonplace.

Today, this practice is mostly followed by off-grid and sustainability enthusiasts. If you’re interested in these topics, you may have heard of “The Humane Handbook,” written by Joseph Jenkins in 1995, which helped to make waste composting systems more popular.

If properly managed, human waste can be safely composted and used. That said, you’ll need to be set up for it. Even then, you should only use human waste when it’s fully composted and only use it around fruit trees and ornamental plantings.


Manure is a wonderful garden amendment when handled properly. If you want to use manure in your garden, follow these steps to ensure it doesn’t contaminate your garden with herbicides or bacteria.