Tag Archives: tomato disease

Beginner Garden: Selecting Tomatoes

Tomatoes are the stars of the veggie patch. They’re a favorite among new gardeners and experienced green thumbs alike. As with any crop, the more you know about tomatoes, the better production you’ll be able to get. Learn what types of tomatoes to grow to suit your specific garden and needs.

We can divide tomatoes into two basic categories, indeterminate and determinate.

Indeterminate Vs. Determinate

Indeterminate tomatoes have a more vine-like growth habit and will grow 8 to 10 feet tall. They’re heavy producers that fruit throughout the season, often until frost kills them.

Determinate tomatoes typically have a bushier, more compact structure and grow about 5 feet tall. They fruit and ripen all at once. Due to this feature, grows often select these tomatoes for storage or canning.

Types of Tomatoes

Cherry/Currant/Grape Tomatoes

They’re great for kids (and adults) to snack on, and they’re prolific producers. These tomatoes also tend to tolerate being grown in containers well, making them an excellent choice for renters. 

Currant tomatoes are the smallest and very close to wild tomatoes. They often self-seed and have good disease resistance and intense, sweet flavor. 

Our favorites include Matt’s Wild Cherry, Purple Bumble Bee, Coyote, and Principe Borghese, a little Italian heirloom bred for sun-drying. 

Paste & Processing Tomatoes

These tomatoes tend to have denser, drier flesh than slicers. This makes them well-suited to sauces, drying, and canning, but they are still quite tasty eaten fresh! They also tend to be very disease-resistant and hardy. 

If you’re looking for an excellent tomato for processing, try varieties like Bisignano #2, Illini Gold, and the classic Amish Paste.

Slicing Tomatoes

These tomatoes range from small 6-ounce fruits to giant beefsteaks. They’re thin-skinned, juicy, and flavorful, perfect for summertime sandwiches! 

Some of our favorite slicers are Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter (our flagship tomato), Kellogg’s Breakfast, Illini Star, Green Zebra, and Japanese Black Trifele Tomato

Storage Tomatoes

Storage tomatoes are typically planted 1 to 2 months after your regular season tomatoes for fall ripening. Fruits are harvested while still green and ripen slowly off the vine allowing you to have fresh tomatoes long after your garden is finished for the season.

If you’d like to try storage tomatoes, check out Garden Peach or Reverend Morrows Long Keeper.

Green Grape TomatoesColors of Tomatoes

I also wanted to note that if you’re accustomed to grocery store tomatoes, you may assume that most of them are red. However, tomatoes come in a wide range of colors. We carry bicolor, green, red, pink, yellow, orange, white, and purple/black tomatoes at SESE. Some may produce multiple colors, like Amy’s Apricot Mix Cherry Tomato.

Disease Resistance

In the types of tomatoes above, I briefly touched on the fact that cherry and paste tomatoes are often some of the most disease-resistant varieties. However, there are varieties that feature different disease resistance that fall under all types of tomatoes.

When you look at tomatoes in the catalog or website, you may notice letters after their name. These letters indicate resistance to specific diseases. This doesn’t mean that these tomatoes are immune, only that they will tolerate this disease pressure better than other varieties.

Note that many heirloom tomatoes have not been extensively tested for disease tolerance either in the laboratory, or in extensive field trials – absence of disease resistance information in the variety description does not imply lack of resistance.

If you’re new to gardening, selecting varieties for your garden can be challenging when there are so many. This basic overview of tomatoes is a great place to start your tomato journey!

Tomato Tips: Preventing Fungal Diseases

For many tomatoes are the highlight of the summer garden. The refreshing sweet yet acidic flavor of a garden tomato is world’s away from the bland, mealy supermarket tomatoes of winter. Unfortunately for those living in areas with hot, humid summers getting a good tomato harvest can be a struggle. Many times tomatoes can become afflicted with fungal diseases like Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt, or Alternaria.

Alternaria also known as early blight causes “bullseye” leaf spots and can causes lesions on the fruit. Fusarium wilt causes the plant’s leaves to wilt and turn yellow and then brown. It usually begins on the plants lower leaves. Like Fusarium wilt, Verticillium wilt begins at the bottom of the plant causes yellow spots to form on the leaves before the leaves turn fully yellow or brown.

There are also many other tomato afflictions you could be experiencing in your garden these are just a few common ones. 

Don’t handle your tomatoes when they’re wet.

Fungal diseases are passed through moisture. Avoid working with your tomato plants until after all the dew or rain had dried off.

Use drip irrigation.

Using drip irrigation is more efficient and can help limit the spread of fungal diseases because the water is going directly to the plants’ roots. For those with small gardens, it’s also possible to spot water the base of the plant. If you must use overhead watering water in the early morning so that the plant will have time to dry off during the day.

Tomato trellis of string weaving at Twin Oaks Community Farm

Prune, trellis, and weed around your plants.  

We all start each spring with the best intentions but often the summer gets away from us. It can be easy to fail to keep up with these important tasks when our garden is competing for our attention with work and family obligations. However, maintaining good airflow around your plants is vital to preventing fungal diseases.

Tomatoes can be trellised in a variety of manners like the “Florida weave” pictured above, on cattle panels, or some sort of homemade tomato cage.

Rotate your crops.

Many fungal diseases that afflict tomatoes live in the soil. To keep your tomatoes disease free you must rotate your crops. Don’t plant tomatoes or other nightshades (including potatoes, peppers, and eggplants) in the same space multiple years in a row. You should use a minimum of a four-year rotation.

Keep your soil and plants healthy.

Along with rotating your crops, you should also work hard to improve your soil’s health which will help you grow healthier, less vulnerable plants. Get your soil tested and add amendments as needed. Practice no-till agriculture. Use cover crops and good quality compost to add fertility and organic matter to your soil. Mulch pathways and around plants to add organic matter and habitat for beneficial fungi and microbes.

West Virginia 63 (Centennial) Tomato – resistant to late blight, Fusarium wilt race 1, Verticillium wilt, and sunscald

Plant disease resistant varieties.

Some varieties have been specifically bred to better tolerate these diseases. Check out our disease resistant selection.

Try a fungicide.

If all else fail you can find organic fungicides. Look for those that are OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) listed. Keep in mind that organic doesn’t always mean completely harm-free. Many fungicides will kill off your soils’ good fungus as well as the bad. Some fungicides like copper can even cause toxicity in your soil if used too frequently or in high quantities! Some gardeners have luck with products like Mycostop which are created from bacteria that feeds on the fungus.

Having tomato diseases ruin your harvest can take a lot of the fun out of gardening. Try following these tips to keep your tomatoes disease free this year.