Tag Archives: fall gardening

Winter Lettuce Production

In much of the Southeast, it’s challenging to get good lettuce production during the summer. We get a few cool weeks in the early spring before the heat sets in, and our lettuce bolts and turns bitter. In years like this, where hot, dry weather lingers, fall production can be challenging, too. Thankfully, winter lettuce production is surprisingly easy. 

While lettuce isn’t technically as cold-tolerant as some of the tougher greens, you can still produce good lettuce with a bit of protection and proper care.

Lettuce in the hoophouse at Twin Oaks
Lettuce in the hoophouse at Twin Oaks

Season Extension for Lettuce

In some areas of the Deep South, you get away with growing lettuce in the field with no additional protection. However, lettuce isn’t incredibly frost tolerant, so in most places, you need to provide some additional frost protection.

Unheated greenhouses, cold frames, and high tunnels offer the most protection while still providing plenty of sunlight. These are ideal for mountainous areas where serious cold protection is needed.

That said, you can usually get away with more affordable and accessible options. Row cover and low tunnels made with clear plastic and wire hoops can give you a cheap, easy-to-install method of season extension. Note that low tunnels and row cover can reduce airflow, potentially encouraging pest and disease issues, so it’s important to stay vigilant and open them when possible.

In very cold temperatures, you can combine the two methods. You can use row cover to provide an extra buffer for lettuce growing high tunnels and greenhouses.

Winter lettuce growing in a low tunnel

Winter lettuce seedlings growing in a low tunnel

Lettuce Soil Requirements

Lettuce is generally considered an easy crop, but like any crop, it will perform better with optimum soil conditions, particularly during the winter. It thrives in well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5.

It often surprises new growers, but lettuce is a heavy feeder because it grows so quickly. It benefits from soil rich in minerals and organic matter, so amending your soil with compost before planting is a good idea. You also want to consider this when planning your cover crops and crop rotation. 

Especially if you have struggled with lettuce in the past, a soil test is a great tool that will allow you to amend your soil appropriately. 

Lettuce Seeding

In the Southeast, we can get away with seeding lettuce pretty late into the fall. You can continue direct sowing as long as your soil temperature needs to be above 32°F. However, that doesn’t mean you will get quick growth.

Cold temperatures, cloudy days, rain, snow, and limited daylight can all affect lettuce growth. It may feel like your lettuce isn’t growing at all. It’s not unusual for lettuce to take up to an additional 30 days or even longer to mature over the winter. Getting seeds in the ground in the fall is helpful for winter harvests. Additionally, you’ll begin seeing faster growth as the days grow longer in February and spring. 

When seeding your winter lettuce, sow seeds about 1/4 inch deep. The spacing you need for for rows of lettuce depends on what size you intend to harvest your lettuce at.

Generally, when harvesting lettuce during the winter, we harvest it as baby greens. This means we get to enjoy a harvest a bit earlier. It also protects the lettuce. Smaller lettuce is much more frost and cold-tolerant than mature heads.  For baby lettuce harvests, you can get away with 4-inch row spacing, but closer to 12 inches for mature heads is ideal.

Winter lettuce transplants in a tray
Winter lettuce transplants

You can also transplant lettuce. Transplanting is a great way to keep successions going, get seeds started faster, and fill in any gaps in your cold frame, hoop house, or other bed throughout the winter.

Winter Lettuce Care

Winter lettuce tends to be a bit more hands-off than spring lettuce, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to manage. Weed pressure is less in the winter, but you should remove any fall weeds as these can be harbors for pests and diseases. 

You should also continue to water lettuce through the winter. As it grows more slowly, winter lettuce has lower moisture needs but still requires periodic watering to keep the soil moist in low tunnels, cold frames, greenhouses, and high tunnels.

It’s critical to keep water off the leaves when watering, as this can encourage disease and frost issues. Water lettuce at the base. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal.

You also want to keep your lettuce from overheating and offer good airflow whenever possible.  On warm and sunny days, vent high tunnels, cold frames, greenhouses, and low tunnels whenever possible. 

Despite the cooler temperatures, pests and disease can still play a role in winter lettuce production, partly because of the minimal airflow and moisture associated with season extension devices. Watch for pests like aphids, mites, and white flies, as well as fungal diseases like powdery mildew, dampening off, and bottom rot and bacterial diseases like soft rot.

Quan Yin Batavian Lettuce
Quan Yin Batavian Lettuce

Lettuce Varieties for Winter Production

When selecting lettuce for the winter garden, you may want to choose varieties different from what you would usually pick for gardening in the Southeast. Cold-hardiness and disease resistance are of the utmost importance during for winter production. 

Here are a few of our favorites:

Winter Lettuce Harvest

As mentioned above, harvesting your winter lettuce as baby greens is ideal. If possible, harvest lettuce when the leaves are dry and gently cut the leaves with scissors or a knife. Especially in cold weather, lettuce is easy to bruise. 

You can store lettuce in the fridge, but for best results, we recommend harvesting just before you’re ready to eat. 

 

You can grow lettuce all winter long in the Southeast using a few basic strategies. Keep growing this winter, and enjoy fresh, crisp salads!

When to Plant a Fall Garden

Growing a fall garden allows us to extend our season and get more vegetables, herbs, and flowers out of our space. In Virginia, where we’re located and farther south, it gives us a second opportunity to enjoy some cool-weather-loving crops like peas and spinach for a second time. However, as we’ll discuss below, the name fall gardening can be a bit misleading, you will be harvesting in the fall, but for many crops, you’ll be sowing during the summer.

When Do I Start My Fall Garden?

The short answer is it depends. Where you’re located and what you choose to grow will dictate the sowing times for your garden. The first step is to consider you’re hardiness zone and determine your first frost date. Then look at the days to maturity for crops you’re considering planting.

While frost may seem like the primary factor in a fall garden, you must also consider the day length. During the fall, the days rapidly get shorter, and this, rather than cold temperatures, slows crop growth.

To take this into consideration, you want to add 14 days to the days to maturity time for any variety you’ll direct sow and 14 to 28 days for any variety you will be transplanting. This longer period helps account for setback and transplant shock. 

Once you have your days to maturity plus the added days for daylight, you can count backward from your first frost date to determine your last possible start date. 

For example, let’s say we wanted to plant Capitan Bibb lettuce (62 days to maturity) in a zone 6b garden with an estimated first frost of October 20th. We’ll take 62 days and add 14 days because we’ll be direct sowing it, to get a total of 76 days. If we look at a calendar and count backward 76 days from October 20th, we get August 7th. Therefore we can sow Capitan Bibb lettuce up to August 7th in this garden and expect harvests. 

At 62 days, Capitan Bibb is also a rather quick-maturing crop. If you want a fall garden, it’s best to start planning early! In zone 7a, we begin direct sowing slower maturing crops like cauliflower as early as June 1st.

Garden Apps and Calendars

These days, gardening apps can be very helpful for determining planting dates. Our own garden planner features planting dates based on your zip code. The Farmer’s Almanac also has a planting date calculator and a first frost date calculator on its website. 

If you’d like a more analog option and are located in zone 7, like we are, feel free to check out our planting list pdf. Also, many states and extension agencies offer planting calendars, so be sure to check your local resources as well. 

What Should I Plant?

You can include a wide array of crops in your fall garden, with the exception of some long-season crops like field pumpkins.

We often lean towards cool-season crops like brassicas, peas, greens, and root vegetables when planning fall gardens. While these may last us longer into fall than their warm-weather counterparts, we can still include them in our plans as well. Especially in southern areas, you can start later plantings of squash, beans, sweet corn, and even tomatoes to ensure second harvests at the beginning of fall. 

In the past, we’ve often set out some tomatoes in the second half of June to ensure we had good production for fall tomato tastings. Here are a few of the crops you can consider planting for fall:

  • Cauliflower
  • Cabbages
  • Summer Squash
  • Beets
  • Beans
  • Peas
  • Southern Peas
  • Chinese Cabbage
  • Swiss Chard 
  • Collards
  • Corn
  • Carrots
  • Lettuce
  • Parsnips
  • Rutabaga
  • Broccoli

Planting in the Fall

There are also a few crops that you can plant in the fall to harvest next season. Some, like bulb onions, brassicas, greens, and certain flowers, we overwinter when they’re still small to get an early spring harvest. Others, like garlic and perennial onions, need a cold period to produce well. 

Planning these out ahead of time can help ensure you get a good selection when ordering. For example, we’re already taking garlic orders, even though we’ll ship it out at the appropriate time during the fall based on your location. 

If you’re always sad to see the garden season come to an end, consider adding more fall crops to your garden this season. Start planning your fall garden now to ensure all your crops are in on time and you have abundant harvests!

8 Reasons to Grow Austrian Winter Peas

We’ve mentioned fall cover crops a lot on this blog. They help protect your soil through the winter, preventing erosion and providing habitat for beneficial insects and fungi. They also add nutrients and organic matter, and suppress weeds. One of our favorite fall cover crops is Austrian winter peas. Here’s why you should consider adding them to your garden:

1. It’s not too late to plant Austrian winter peas!

At least in the upper south, the end of October is a bit late to be sowing most cover crops. Thankfully, these peas will tolerate temperatures down as low as 0°F for brief periods. We still recommend planting them 4 to 6 weeks before your first hard frost for best results. However, we’ve had luck planting later than that. You can also improve their cold tolerance by sowing them with winter rye which will help shelter the peas from wind and cold temperatures. 

2. The flowers are beautiful and edible.

It’s hard not to fall in love with those little bi-colored blossoms. Beyond adding beauty to your springtime garden, you can use them to add color to salads or be as natural decorations for baked goods. 

3. They’re nitrogen-fixers.

Not all cover crops have the same benefits. Austrian winter peas are what are commonly known as nitrogen fixers, meaning that they have a symbiotic relationship with specific bacteria. The bacteria colonize the plant’s roots and pull nitrogen out of the atmosphere. The bacteria use the nitrogen, and then it becomes available to the plant.

When you plant Austrian winter peas as a cover crop, that nitrogen is added to the soil for your next crop to use. Additionally, the peas provide habitat for the same type of bacteria that other legumes like snap peas and pole beans use. Helping these beneficial bacteria flourish in your soil will give you better results with these sorts of crops.

4. The shoots are great in salads and stir-fries. 

Austrian winter peas are primarily grown as a cover crop or green manure, but they’re also a tasty green. The young shoots can be snipped off and added to salads and stir-fries. They have a nice pea-like flavor and will continue to grow in much of the south through the winter.

5. Austrian winter peas make great mulch. 

When you’re ready to plant other crops in spring, you have a couple of options when cover cropping with winter peas. Often, people choose to till them in. However, you can also use them in a no-till garden. Simply scythe them down (or cut or pull them by hand for small beds) and plant directly into them. They make a excellent layer of mulch and will slowly decay and add organic matter to the soil.

6. Livestock loves Austrian winter peas too.

Humans aren’t the only ones that find Austrian winter pea shoots tasty. Livestock loves them. During the winter, you can cut some as a treat for goats, chickens, or other backyard livestock.

7. You can eat them like snap peas.

If you decide to let your Austrian winter peas continue growing in spring, you can eat the young pods as snap peas or use them like shell peas as they mature. Generally, they aren’t quite as sweet as other varieties. 

8. The flowers are helpful for pollinators. 

When you fall plant Austrian winter peas, they get ahead start on many of your spring garden crops. This means they flower early, providing bees and other pollinators with food at a critical time.

We grow and offer many different cover crops at SESE, but Austrian winter peas have earned a place as a fall favorite. They’re a great dual-purpose crop for small farmers and gardeners looking to improve their soil health and grow fresh food during the winter.