Basics: Seed Starting Supplies

Depending on your USDA Hardiness Zone, you’ll want to start seeds indoors soon! In zone 7a in Virginia, we begin by starting onions, and by the end of January are sowing celery, celeriac, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower. Come February, we’ll be starting trays of tomatoes, artichokes, and more at the beginning of March. Starting transplants from seed is fun and allows you to access more varieties, but you need a few seed starting supplies. 

Seed Starting Supplies You Need

Containers

What you use for containers is mainly personal preference, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First, your containers should offer good drainage. Seedlings don’t do well if they’re soggy. 

Flats

One of the most common choices is plastic flats. These are easy to use, and if you buy decent ones can be used for several years. Their uniformity allows you to organize your seedlings easily.

UpCycled

Especially if you’re only starting a few seedlings, you may want to upcycle containers. Yogurt cups are a common choice; just make sure to poke holes in the bottoms for drainage and find trays to place beneath them. 

Soil Blocks

Soil blocks are wonderful because they’re easy to transplant, and they “air prune” the plants’ roots. This means that soil-block plants won’t become root-bound like in typical pots where the roots grow around the inside of the pot because the roots won’t grow out into the open air. To use this method, you’ll need a small tool called a soil blocker and trays to place the blocks in. 

Additionally, they’re an excellent option for transplanting crops that don’t like their roots disturbed. You won’t have to fight to get them out of a tray and potentially damage the roots. 

Compostable Pots

There are also compostable pots like peat pots, or you can make compostable pots from newspapers. These make transplanting easy, but it can be pricey if you have to buy a lot of peat pots. When translating, ensure you don’t leave part of the pot sticking above the soil; it can wick moisture away from the roots. Tear the tops off before transplanting if needed.

Depending on the size of your containers and how long your seedlings need to grow indoors, you may need to pot up your seedlings. Plants like tomatoes thrive when potted up. 

Seed Starting Mix

Many gardeners and farmers use a seed starting mix to sow seeds indoors. Seed-starting mixes have the advantage of being sterile, meaning your seedlings will be exposed to fewer bacterial and fungal issues while they’re first getting started. Seed-starting mixes also hold adequate moisture for seeds without getting soggy. 

If you don’t want to purchase a seed starting mix, you can make your own or use finished compost. Most ordinary garden soil isn’t a good option because it doesn’t drain well. 

If you’re looking for something organic, you want to look for a seed-starting mix or ingredients with the OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) label. You can find comprehensive lists of certified products on the OMRI website if you want to browse different brands. 

Lights

A common mistake among beginner gardeners is to plop seedlings in front of a window and not provide any additional supplemental light thinking they’ll grow like houseplants. Unfortunately, most houseplants can tolerate partial shade. In contrast, most vegetable crops, herbs, and garden flowers require full sun, which they won’t receive in a window, particularly in winter. If your seedlings don’t receive supplemental light, they’ll probably become “leggy” or tall and spindly as they reach for the light. 

A quick Google search will turn up several options available for supplemental lights. One of the most affordable options is to use simple shop lights. LED bulbs are the most efficient, but you can use fluorescent 

The lights should be about 2 to 4 inches from the top of your seedlings. It’s best to have a setup that allows your lights to be easily adjusted as the plants grow. If your plants look leggy, they need to be closer but don’t move them too close, or it can burn them. 

Most seedlings do well with 12-18 hours of supplemental light daily. If you can get one, a timer will make managing this much easier. 

Seed Starting Surface

You’ll need a place to put all of your precious seedlings! This is another choice that’s mainly up to personal preference. Some people use work benches or old tables. Large wire shelves, like those meant for storing tools, are one of my favorites. You can easily hang and adjust lights from each shelf.

Optional Seed Starting Supplies

Heat Mat

Your house may feel warm, but many crops benefit from extra heat. Tomatoes, for example, require soil temperature in the range of 75-85 degrees F for good germination. Heat mats can improve the quality of tomatoes and other heat-loving seedlings like peppers and eggplants. 

Fertilizer

Most seed-starting mixes are designed to get plants started, not provide them nutrients long-term. If they’re in a container for a long time, you may need to give your seedlings a little boost. You can do this with liquid fertilizer. A bit of liquid kelp or compost tea, a tablespoon or two, added to a gallon of water is a good option. 

Coldframe or Hoophouse

If it’s an option for you, building a coldframe, hoop house, or setting up some other form of season extension can help you harden off seedlings and provide extra space. 

Buying transplants isn’t as satisfying as watching your own begin from seed long before spring arrives. Gather these seed starting supplies for success with growing transplants. 



What Does Organic Mean?

There’s a lot of vocabulary in the gardening world these days! As you dive into gardening, you’ll hear folks talking about regenerative agriculture, biological farming, heirlooms, open-pollinated crops, permaculture, and more. Especially if you’re new to gardening, all this jargon can get a bit confusing, so today, I thought we’d cover one of the big ones: “organic.” You’ve probably seen this word in various contexts, from food and seeds to methods or maybe even your chemistry class. So what does organic mean?

For our purposes, we’ll be focusing on the agricultural use of the word organic. 

Certified Organic

When we’re talking about gardening, whether it’s seeds, plants, vegetables, herbs, or livestock, you’ll want to focus on USDA-certified organic.

According to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA): “Organic meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products come from animals that are given no antibiotics or growth hormones. Organic food is produced without using most conventional pesticides; fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge; bioengineering; or ionizing radiation.”

Farms that aren’t organic are generally referred to as conventional. If a conventional farm wanted to become certified organic, its fields would need to be free of non-organic products like fertilizer for three years before getting their certification. 

The Organic Materials Review Institute

Does that mean organic farmers don’t use fertilizers or pesticides? No, they may still use products that have been certified by the Organic Materials Review Institute. You may see the OMRI label on seed starting mixes, fertilizers, and even certain organic pesticides like neem oil. 

As we’ve discussed in previous posts, it’s important to remember that when using these products, organic doesn’t necessarily mean harmless or safe. While generally less harmful than chemical pesticides, organic pesticides may still affect beneficial insects as well as pests. Organic fertilizers can still cause dangerous algae looms if allowed to run off into waterways. They can still cause adverse effects in humans too. Use caution when applying them to avoid breathing them in or getting them on your skin or eyes.

We recommend using these products sparingly and instead turning to other practices like crop rotation, cover cropping, and attracting beneficial insects whenever possible.

Are Conventional Farms Bad?

The short answer is no; it depends on the farm. Buying local food and getting to know your farmers is an excellent way to ensure their practices align with your beliefs. 

Not all farms opt to receive an organic certification, which can be a significant expense for small operations. Even those farms which don’t have an organic certification may still practice sustainable agriculture and may even largely or entirely follow organic practices.

Unfortunately, the opposite is also true. Some farms, particularly large-scale industrial farms, may have practices that follow organic regulations but don’t necessarily align with your values. Sadly, an organic certification does not necessarily guarantee food that is good for you or good for the planet.

SESE Organic Seeds

Many of our customers are interested in organic seeds, and we offer them whenever possible. Look for the “OG” symbol next to a variety’s name.

 

There’s a lot to learn about agricultural practices and terminology. Understanding what organic means can help you make appropriate choices for your garden and table. 



5 Helpful Spiders of The Southeastern US

Many people aren’t big fans of spiders, but as gardeners, they’re easy to appreciate. They’re amazing predators helping protect our crops! In the past, we’ve covered some bees and predatory insects native to the Southeastern US, but I thought spiders deserved their own post. They have a surprising amount of variation from their appearance to their hunting style. Keep reading to learn more about five southeastern spider species you may see in your garden. 

Golden Silk Spider
Golden Silk Spider

Golden Silk Spider (Trichonephila clavipes)

These stunning spiders are amazing web builders that produce seven types of silk! Adult females produce enormous webs up to 6.6 feet wide, often anchoring them to shrubs or trees. They sit near the center of their webs, waiting for prey like flies and grasshoppers to fly into the web. 

Adult males are smaller and darker colored. They generally produce smaller webs near a female and can occasionally be found in a female’s web. These spiders only produce one generation per year. 

You may have also heard them called golden silk orb weavers or banana spiders, though several spiders are known by that name. They thrive in areas with high humidity in parts of South and Central America and the eastern United States, occasionally as far north as Canada. 

Golden Silk Spiders are not aggressive or dangerous. They will only bite if roughly handled, and their bites typically only cause mild redness and pain and are considered milder than a bee sting. That said, these garden allies should be respected. 

Striped Lynx Spider on a Leaf
Striped Lynx Spider

Striped Lynx Spider (Oxyopes salticus)

You may not have noticed this little spider before, but they’re often abundant in yards, gardens, and agricultural areas. They get their name from their cat-like hunting style. They don’t build webs but stalk and then leap on their prey. They feed on numerous agricultural pests, including the southern green stink bug, tobacco budworm, and bollworm.

Studies have shown that Striped Lynx Spiders can detect the odor given off by prey. Unfortunately, scientists have also found that these athletic little spiders are heavily affected by pesticide use. 

Females typically only mate once and produce a small egg sac. Spiderlings hatch about 20 days later and disperse using a method called ballooning, where they release silk into the air, which is caught by the wind carrying them to a new location.

Striped Lynx Spiders are non-aggressive, and their bites aren’t known to cause serious medical issues.

Female Wolf Spider Carrying Young on Her Back
Female Wolf Spider Carrying Young on Her Back

Wolf Spiders (Lycosidae)

Numerous species of wolf spiders are found in the Southeastern United States. You may find them in the garden when flipping over mulch or other materials. They build retreats or shelters in the soil or under logs, rocks, or other debris.

These large hunting spiders are active at night when they run down their prey. They mate in autumn, and the males die while the females overwinter in protected areas. The females produce egg cocoons the following spring and then carry the spiderlings on their backs after hatching. 

These spiders may bite if roughly handled or trapped against the skin. Their bite can cause redness, localized swelling, and pain but isn’t known to cause any serious medical issues. 

Banded Garden Spider in a Web
Banded Garden Spider

Banded Garden Spider (Argiope trifasciata) 

Banded Garden Spiders produce large, concentric webs on east to west axis, which they attach the webs to stems, branches, or other plant material. You may notice zigzag silk banners in their webs. These are believed to help attract certain types of prey and deter birds from hitting them.

These spiders often sit in the center of their web, holding their legs in an x-shape. They feed on anything entrapped in the web, including mosquitoes, flies, grasshoppers, aphids, and even wasps.

Banded Garden Spiders have a short lifespan. They mate in late summer or early fall and the females deposit an egg sac before dying. The new spiderlings hatch the following spring.

These spiders are non-aggressive and often drop from their web to escape if disturbed. Their bite is typically milder than a bee sting. 

Mabel Orchard Orbweaver in a Web
Mabel Orchard Orbweaver

Mabel Orchard Orbweaver (Leucauge argyrobapta)

As their name suggests, these stunning spiders are often found in orchards! However, they may also be found in shrubby meadows, suburban areas, and forest edges. 

Like other orb weavers, Mabel Orchard Orb Weavers construct webs that they sit in and wait for prey. They may also construct barrier webs around their web, which help deter predators and birds from destroying their web. Interestingly, these friendly spiders may connect their webs together when prey is plentiful. They’re also often found near Golden Silk Spiders. 

Mabel Orchard Orbweavers primarily feed on small insects like mosquitoes and small flies. Like Banded Garden Spiders, they have a relatively short lifespan, breeding and dying in early fall, while an egg sac overwinters. 

These beautiful little spiders avoid human contact when possible and will drop from their web if they feel threatened. Their bite is milder than a bee sting and has no known serious effects.

Spiders can be scary for many people, but their incredible allies for gardeners. Hopefully, learning a bit more about five of the spiders you might see in your southeastern garden helps you appreciate them a little more.

Saving the Past for the Future