Sowing Seeds: Cold Stratification

Each winter gardeners dream of spring, tucking seeds into the soil indoors where they’re safe from winter’s chill. Most of garden seeds like tomatoes, zinnias, cabbage, and basil all benefit from relatively warm soil conditions. But, there are some seeds that actually require cold temperatures to germinate. This is when gardeners must use a method called cold stratification.

What is Cold Stratification?

Cold stratification is a seed starting technique where the gardener exposes the seeds to cold, moist conditions to mimic natural conditions. For some species, these conditions are necessary for the seed to break dormancy. 

Seeds that require cold stratification typically have a hard seed coating. In a natural setting, the frosts, snow, low temperatures, and rain of winter break down the coating.

Yellow Swallowtail Butterfly on Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)What Seeds Require Cold Stratification

While you can simply plunk many annual vegetable, flower, and herb seeds straight into warm soil in the spring, some varieties, especially native perennials, need or benefit from cold stratification.

Some species like Butterfly Weed will germinate without cold stratification. However, they may have a lower germination rate and germinate more slowly. Others, like the Yellow Coneflower, require cold stratification. I have marked those species that require cold stratification to break dormancy with a “*.”

This list includes many of the common plants that benefit from cold stratification but isn’t comprehensive. Always check on your specific variety’s needs. 

How to Cold Stratify Seeds

There are several techniques for cold stratifying seeds, but we like to keep it as simple as possible at SESE. However, these seeds will still need to be started far in advance of your typical crops. While a few species will germinate after just 3 weeks of cold stratification, most need 2 to 4 months before they break dormancy.

To stratify seeds indoors, sow them as directed in pots or flats, and then place them in the refrigerator for 2 to 4 months. Keep the soil moist during this period. If you have access to a cold frame or hoop house, you can also set your pots or flats into it for the winter.

Some native perennials may still have relatively low germination rates, even after cold stratification. 

That’s what makes them sow tricky to grow. Thankfully, once established, they will often self sow or you can divide them after a couple of years. 

Cold Stratification Alternative: Direct Sow Fall Planting

If cold stratification doesn’t sound like a fun project for you, there is an easy alternative, direct sowing in fall. As long as you live in a region where the winters naturally provide moist, cold conditions, the stratification process will happen over the winter.

In a previous post, Spring Flowers: Fall Sowing, we discuss how to use this technique and what flowers grow well using this method. Some flowers, like Dara, will grow well when fall sown even if they don’t require cold stratification.

Generally, we recommend fall sowing any of your seeds about 4 to 6 weeks before your first expected frost date. 

Crop Rotation by Plant Family

Crop rotation is an essential tool in the organic gardener’s tool box. It’s an excellent way to reduce pest and disease pressure without resorting to pesticides, fungicides, or other chemical amendments. There are many methods of crop rotation but we prefer to rotate crops on a 2 to 4-year plan by plant family. This is a simple method for small gardeners and market growers alike, whether you’re working with flowers, herbs, or vegetables.

What is Crop Rotation?

Crop rotation is a system of gardening organization and planting that ensures you don’t grow specific types of plants in the same bed for multiple years in a row. Some farmers like to rotate by nutritional needs (ex. Heavy feeders, light feeders, and givers), but we prefer to rotate by family (related groups of plants).

For a large commercial garden or home vegetable garden, we encourage growers to rotate on a four-year plan, meaning that you don’t grow a type of crop in the same bed for four years.

If this isn’t feasible, do what you’re able. A two or three-year rotation is better than none!

Keeping track of your rotation each year is essential. Keep a garden journal (graph paper is helpful for sketching beds) or a garden planner app.

Benefits of Crop Rotation

Why can’t you just keep planting crops in the same spot? When we plant the same crop in a bed year after year, it uses the same nutrients and encourages disease and pests to build up in the soil.

Crop rotation can eliminate these issues and make your garden healthier. It may:

  • Reduce the risk of pests and diseases.
  • Improve soil health and fertility.
  • Reduce the need for chemical amendments.
  • Increase yields.
  • Improve soil carbon sequestration.

There’s even some new evidence that crop rotation may help reduce risks of crop loss in a changing climate.

What are the Different Plant Families?

Most of the common vegetable crops and even some flowers and herbs fall into a few larger plant families. Prevalent pest and disease issues often affect specific families. 

For example, some cucurbits like pumpkins, winter squash, and summer squash are all affected by vine borers, blight is a common fungal disease in the nightshades like tomatoes and potatoes, and many of the brassicas like broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage are prone to cabbage worm issues.

Rotation often helps prevent theses issues. For example, garlic rust is most prevalent in garlic, but it can also infect onions and leeks when they’re planted closely or in an infected bed. 

Here are the basic crop families:

The Nightshades (Solanaceae spp.)

  • Tomatoes
  • Tomatillos
  • Ground Cherries
  • Peppers
  • Eggplants
  • Potatoes
  • Tobacco
  • Garden Huckleberry
  • Petunias

The Pea Family (Fabaceae spp.)

  • Pole beans
  • Bush beans
  • Asparagus beans
  • Fava beans
  • Soybeans (edamame)
  • Peas
  • Sweet Peas
  • Cowpeas

The Beet Family (Chenopodiaceae spp. or Amaranthaceae spp.)

  • Beets
  • Quinoa
  • Swiss Chard
  • Spinach 
  • Amaranth

The Cucurbits (Curcurbitaceae spp.)

  • Cucumbers
  • Zucchini 
  • Summer Squash
  • Winter Squash
  • Pumpkins
  • Gourds
  • Watermelon
  • Melons

The Brassicas (Brassicaceae spp.)

  • Cabbage
  • Collards
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Kale
  • Broccoli
  • Cauliflower
  • Radishes
  • Kohlrabi
  • Mustards
  • Asian greens (bok choy)
  • Turnips
  • Arugula

The Carrot Family (Apiaceae spp.)

  • Carrots
  • Dara
  • Celery
  • Fennel
  • Cilantro
  • Parsley
  • Parsnips
  • Dill

The Alliums (Alliacaeae)

  • Bulb Onions
  • Garlic
  • Leeks
  • Perennial Onions
  • Shallots
  • Chives

The Daisy Family (Asteraceae spp.)

  • Sunflowers
  • Lettuce
  • Endive
  • Radicchio
  • Asters

How to Crops Rotate by Family

There isn’t a one-size fits all formula for every garden. Just keep moving crops. For example, if you grow tomatoes (a nightshade) in a bed one year, you could grow broccoli (a brassica) the following year, then bulb onions (alliums), and then finally bush beans (pea family), before growing another nightshade, like peppers.

Buckwheat (cover crops)Other Considerations

Rotating by family is the basic way to get the job done, but there are some other techniques you may also want to include.

Fertility Requirements

As you plan your rotation, you may want to consider the fertility requirements of different plant families. Many growers choose to rotate crops through a bed, starting with high fertility needs to low fertility needs. Often, they will rest the bed for a year or put it in a cover crop in between cycles. 

Heavy feeders are vegetables that need a good bit of nitrogen to thrive, like tomatoes, sweet corn, and broccoli. Light feeders like garlic, parsnips, and Swiss chard need less nitrogen to thrive. Givers or fixers are the last category. These are the nitrogen-fixing members of the pea family. They rarely need much supplemental nitrogen as they can convert atmospheric nitrogen into its usable form.

You can also take this a step further with cover crops.

Adding Cover Crops to Your Rotation

Adding cover crops to your rotation can also make a tremendous difference in the health of your soil and productivity of your garden. In large gardens, you may decide to leave beds or sections in a cover crop for an entire year to rest the soil.

In smaller gardens, this may not be possible. Don’t fret, you can use the off-seasons and “in-between times” for cover crops. 

Winter cover crops are a great way to improve soil health during the slow season. You can also plant a cover crop as soon as a crop is finished. For example, if you grow a bed of early cabbages, you can sow the bed in a cover crop like buckwheat during the summer. In late summer or fall, cut the buckwheat and use the bed for a fall crop.

 

Crop rotation is a simple way to improve the health of your soil and garden. As your planning next season’s garden, think about incorporating crop rotation by family for a more productive year. 

5 Essential Winter Garden Chores

Winter isn’t just for flipping through the seed catalogs! It’s an excellent time to work on planning and building a healthier, more productive garden. Complete these winter garden chores to have stress-free planting season come spring. 

Organize and Check Seeds

Don’t toss those old seeds! Seeds don’t go bad after a certain date; their germination rate slowly declines. 

Whether you saved seeds from a previous season or have leftover seeds from us, it’s time to sort, test, and organize them. How you sort your seeds is a personal preference, but it’s a good idea to divide them into categories like tomatoes and salad greens, so you know what you have. 

Properly storing your seeds is critical, as it will affect their shelf life. The best-case scenario is to store them somewhere below 40°F with no sunlight and low humidity. If you have the space, airtight containers in the freezer are a perfect option. 

For in-depth advice on seed testing, expected shelf life, and proper storage, visit:

Garden Plan Example
Garden Plan Example from the SESE Garden Planner

Garden Plan

“A goal without a plan is just a wish.” ~Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

Flipping through seed catalogs and looking at gorgeous garden layouts on Instagram is always a fun way to brighten a winter day. But, to make those dreams into something real, you need to plan for next season. And the earlier, the better that’s why we’ve included it on this winter garden chores list.

Crop rotation is key to pest and disease management, so a rough sketch of last year’s layout is a great starting point. Using your sketch, you can plan beds for next season, ensuring that you avoid planting any crop family (ex. Nightshades, alliums, brassicas) in the same spot for at least two years.

Once you have a basic layout, you may also want to incorporate some companion planting. Gardeners use companion planting to maximize space, control pests, attract beneficial insects, provide natural trellises, and more.

Consider succession planting. It’s a great way to extend the season and avoid gluts and shortages. Think about seeds you’ll need for spring planting and any you want to plant during the summer for a fall harvest.

Resources:

SESE seed packets and informationOrder Seeds

Now onto everyone’s favorite on the winter garden chores list: ordering seeds.

You’ve taken stock of your seeds and built a garden plan. Now is the time to order anything you’re missing. Getting your order in early ensures you get the first pick of your favorite varieties.

While you’re browsing the website or flipping through the catalog, take notice of key features. Watch for days to maturity, phrases like early, drought-tolerant, or heat-tolerant. You should aim to choose varieties that have resistance to pests and diseases that you have struggled with in the past.

Get detailed advice on what to look for when ordering seeds:

SoilBuild Healthy Soil 

A productive garden begins with healthy soil, and winter is a great time to work on soil building. 

Cover crops, and green manures are among the best methods for improving the soil over the winter. They provide nutrients, organic matter, and protect the soil from erosion. Unfortunately, it’s too late to plant winter cover crops in many areas. However, it’s a good time to think about spring sowing. 

One of the simplest, most effective winter garden chores is composting. It’s a great way to add organic matter and fertility to beds in the spring. Just add a couple of inches of finished compost to the top of each bed. 

Amending the garden can be tricky, especially when we can’t pinpoint the issue. A soil test is the best way to determine what your garden needs and winter is a great time to get one! Soil labs get busy in spring, so get your samples to them as soon as possible.

Soil texture is one feature that you can easily test at home, using a simple jar test. Knowing your soil texture will tell you key features about how your soil drains, compacts, and holds nutrients.

Resources:

A Nice Shower to Keep the Seeds Happy

Prepare a Seed Starting Set Up (and start seeds)

When you start seeds at home, you can grow anything you want. 

Growing your own seeds at home rather than purchasing plants means extra winter garden chores, but it also means you have access to an incredible range of heirloom vegetables, native wildflowers, and medicinal herbs, and more at your fingertips. But you’ll need a set up for them.

While most vegetable garden seeds don’t need light to germinate, they do best with some form of supplemental lighting once they start to grow. You’ll also need a place to put your seedlings, good seed starting mix, and containers. You may also want to consider heat mats for heat-loving seedlings like peppers.

If you’re new to seed starting, you may be surprised to learn that much of it takes place in the winter. We’re tucking seeds into trays weeks before our last frost date. For those in our zone, we offer a list of planting at the back of our catalog (available as a pdf below). You can also get personalized planting reminders with our garden planner or the Farmer’s Almanac “What to Plant Now” app. 

Watch out for varieties that need cold stratification. You’ll need to complete some extra steps to get a good germination rate from these.

Resources:

 

Take advantage of the off-season with these five winter garden chores. What do you do in the winter for your garden?

Saving the Past for the Future