I spend a good portion of time in our busy season answering emails, and the walls of glowing text can often be overwhelming and impersonal. So it was great to be able to send a bunch of our catalogs to Mary Arginteanu, master naturalist, master gardener, and Co-chair of the Richmond Audubon Kids program, and to learn from her what exciting things are going on locally. Below are pictures and information she provided about their “Leave No Child Inside” program, along with a link to her SESE catalog lesson plan.

In January 2005 Richmond Audubon began a program to “Leave No Child Inside”
Our partners would be children living in poor Richmond city neighborhoods. Most
of the children lived within two miles of the James River and the James River Park so
our vision was to introduce kids to the outdoors thru kayaking, hiking, and nature
exploration. This is still an important part of our focus. We even made sure that we got only the best equipments for the kids from www.globosurfer.com.

BUT we quickly learned that getting kids from our two partner schools to the river
was logistically impossible. Thank goodness for Gardens! It has been a great way
to “leave no child inside —- nor their parents, siblings, teachers and neighbors.”

We now have two school gardens. They include vegetables, herbs, flowers, and
an emphasis on native plants, and lots of art work. Chesterfield County Master
Gardeners work with Richmond Audubon to provide guidance and activities for the
kids.
AND Southern Exposure has been a delightful part of our garden planning and
planting. Last year we used the quirky, so comprehensive catalogs to make our
seed selection with the teachers. This year teachers will have votes, but the 4th and
5th grade members of the after school Garden Club made most see selections. Big
favorites were more radishes, enough so we will have them from April to November,
zinnias and sunflowers which gave us flower bouquets from May through October,
and new this year are straw flowers. The Garden Managers will supplement the
children’s choices with other annuals that have been big successes in the past:
hyacinth bean, dwarf red cotton —– what a beauty —- and various gourds and
melons.

Click here for Mary’s seed catalog lesson plan.

Are you looking at the new USDA zone map, thinking that now that you’re one zone warmer you might try growing peanuts or southern peas this year? There are lots of of techniques and equipment for extending your growing season in cool climates where hot-season crops barely get enough heat and time to ripen before frosts hit. But often choosing the right variety can make the differnce between a small just-in-time harvest and bountiful production. Here’s our guide to choosing the right varieties, for temperate climate gardeners who want real Southern flavor.

Okra: You might think okra is just for gardeners in the deep South, but we have varieties that mature fruit in as little as 50 days. Okra plants run the gamut from two and half foot tall dwarfs to ten foot tall giants: if your summers are short and cool, you should choose short, quick maturing varieties. Growers as far north as Maine have had success with the excellent heirloom dwarf okra Cajun Jewel. You might also try Lee and the classic heirloom Clemson Spineless. (Note: Pacific NW growers are, sadly, usually unable to grow okra, there just isn’t enough heat for okra to thrive.) 

Peppers: Don’t be intimidated by growing peppers! Lots of heirloom peppers come from Eastern Europe, where summers are more mild. You can grow peppers even if you have cool nights and mild summer days. We suggest looking for short-day varieties that originate in cooler regions: Bull Nose is a medium-sized red bell that’s ready in just 58 days. Medium-sized, early-maturing bells like Gamba and Doe Hill Golden Bell; wax peppers like Early Hungarian and Feherozon; smaller peppers like Lipstick and Ashe County Pimento; and frying peppers like Melrose and Marconi can all produce prolific harvests even in cooler summers.

Tomatoes: Generally, cool-climate gardeners are limited to small or medium sized tomatoes, unless you have a greenhouse. Sophie’s Choice, Eva Purple Ball, and Abraham Lincoln are all medium sized heirlooms that have just as much flavor as the big slicers. Ground Cherries are a tasty, unusual crop for cooler climate growers who want to expand their nightshade crops.

Eggplant: Early Black Egg is a standby for classic dark purple fruits in cooler climates. Ping Tung Long is earlier than Long Purple and perfect for Chinese-style dishes.

Southern Peas: Queen Ann Blackeye Pea is the classic southern pea for gardeners in cooler climates, but if you’re looking for something different, we’re excited to offer Fast Lady Northern Southern Pea, bred especially for very mild summers in the Pacific Northwest, brought to us by Carol Deppe, plant breeder extraordinaire.

Peanuts: Farmers successfully grow peanuts all the way up into the lower reaches of Canada, as far inland as Ontario. One of our growers gets good yields of Tennessee Red Valencia peanuts in Eastern Canada. To get a jump on peanut season, start the seeds in 2″ pots 3–4 weeks before transplanting them out.  

Watermelon: Not only is Blacktail Mountain watermelon very early, it also has the amazing ability to sweeten up in storage even when harvested a bit underripe. If your climate is truly marginal for watermelon, this is the one to grow. 6–8" drought-resistant Sugar Baby is also a good choice, especially for small gardens, and for yellow-fleshed watermelons Early Moonbeam is the best choice.

Melons: Super productive Ice Cream Melon (Green Machine) is sweet and early. The melons are quite small – just right for holding a scoop of icecream.

***A little extra attention is still important for early harvests, even when you’re choosing the ideal early varieties. Don’t start your seedlings too early, or they’ll get too large and will be set back by transplant shock when you do move them out to the garden (harvest could end up later than if you’d waited a couple weeks longer to start them indoors!). Wait to put down organic mulches like straw until after you’ve transplanted, otherwise you could cool the soil. Clear plastic laid down on the beds a couple weeks before transplanting will warm up the ground and help get your plants off to a good start. Raised beds also help the soil warm up earlier. Row cover on plants keeps them warmer and helps them grow faster during their first month. ***

Don’t miss the chance to start your own seedlings from seed for planting this spring and summer! Depending on where you live, February through April is when you’ll sow tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants for planting out when the soil’s warm enough. February is a great time to sow brassicas like broccoli, cabbage, kale, and collards for spring transplanting. Ambitious gardeners who want to start harvesting a few weeks earlier will even start delicate okra and cucurbits like watermelons, melons, cucumbers, and squash indoors in pots in March and April.

There’s also plenty you can direct sow in the garden over the next couple months, as long as the soil isn’t too wet. Once the seeds germinate, they’re no longer in danger of rotting in water-logged ground. So take advantage of dry spells to work the soil and sow your most cold-hardy seeds. For direct sowing outdoors in early spring we recommend snap peas, snow peas, English peas, herbs like cilantro and parsley, and mustard greens and lettuces sown close together (simply harvest by mowing down to about 2 inches, being sure to leave the growing point intact).

We’ve posted a new Beginner’s Growing Guide that covers the basics of seed starting for beginners. Novice seed starters should seek out other resources: talk to local gardeners, find your local Master Gardeners, and read gardening books for your region! We recommend Nancy Bubel’s classic guide The New Seed Starter’s Handbook for anyone learning about starting plants from seed.