We have gardeners order from Southern Exposure who have 1/2 acre home gardens, some who grow for market, a few with raised bed gardens, and others who just have a few containers on the patio. While some gardeners may find it easy to use up a pack of seeds in a year, many folks will find they have leftovers at the end of the season. Thankfully, most seeds are good for more than one year. In today’s post, we’ll discuss how long seeds last and how to store them well. 

Seed Storage Life

When we talk about seed storage life, we’re essentially talking about the germination rate after a specific period. Seeds don’t go bad after a certain date; their germination rate slowly declines. 

As Southern Exposure, we regularly test all the seeds we keep in stock to ensure they have high germination rates when they leave us. Some plants naturally have better germination rates than others. Certain medicinal herbs and native plants can be especially finicky!

When stored properly, you can expect vegetable seeds to last for one to six years, depending on the crop.

These are just general guidelines. Depending on how you store them, your seeds may last for a shorter or longer period. You can still use them as their germination rate declines; you just need to seed more thickly. 

Here’s what to expect from most vegetable crop seeds:

How to Store Seeds

Seeds have the longest shelf life when stored somewhere cold, dry, and dark. At Southern Exposure, we have well-designed walk-in seed storage with carefully monitored temperature and humidity. Obviously, this isn’t accessible for most home gardeners. So, what’s the next best storage spot?

The best cold place to store your seeds is in the freezer. Seeds will stay good for the longest time with temperatures below 40°F. If this isn’t available, a cool cabinet would also work.

Of course, seeds also need to stay dry, and home freezers aren’t designed to with low enough humidity. To protect seeds, place them in an airtight container before placing them in the freezer. When you’re ready to use the seeds, let the container come up to room temperature before opening to avoid condensation.

The freezer is also a great place because it’s dark. Light exposure degrades seed over time. If you aren’t keeping them in the freezer, make sure to store them somewhere dark. 

Avoid storing seeds in areas like garages and sheds that experience considerable humidity and temperature swings. These changes in climate also degrade seeds.

Germination Test

If you have seeds that are multiple years old, you can always do a quick germination test.

• Place ten seeds in a moist cloth or paper towel and fold it in half over the seeds.
• Place your moist towel into a container or ziplock bag.
• Set the container or bag somewhere warm and out of direct sunlight.
• Wait until the crop’s expected germination period is over, spraying the towel with water as needed so it never dries out.
• Count the seeds that germinated.
  

The number of seeds that germinate will give you a rough idea of your expected germination rate. If seven seeds out of ten germinate, you have about a 70% germination rate. We recommend 10 for home use, but the more you use, the more accurate your rate will be if you have enough seed to spare. 

Don’t worry if your germination rate is nowhere near 100%! When your germination rate is low, sow your seeds more thickly and then thin your plants as they grow. 

Don’t throw those seeds out! Most gardeners have extra seed at the end of each season. If you store your seed correctly, you can keep using it for the next couple of years.

Bees are often the focus of our attention in the spring when we choose flowers and in June during pollinator week; unfortunately, they’re often forgotten in the fall when we turn our attention to school, the holiday season, and indoor activities. However, fall is a critical period for supporting bees, especially our native bees. That’s why we’ve put together some quick tips for helping the bees this fall.

While bees get (and deserve) a lot of credit, we realize there are many other pollinators that call our yards and gardens home. Many of these tips can also help support other pollinators, such as flies, moths, and butterflies.

Avoid Mowing Sections of Lawns and Fields with Late Flowers

Many pollinator-conscious gardeners have started planning to provide bees with early spring flowers. Flowers are just as important in the fall when the supply dwindles. Avoid mowing late-blooming flowers until after they have died back.

What flowers are important?

According to the Bumble Bee Watch, flowers like goldenrod (Solidago spp.) and asters (Symphyotrichum spp.), which bloom into September and October, are among the most commonly visited flowers!

One of our eastern United States bumble bees, the rusty patched bumble bee (Bombus affinis), is now federally endangered. While there’s no guarantee it remains in your area, Bumble Bee Watch says it has often been observed visiting beebalm (Monarda spp.), giant hyssop (Agastache spp.), goldenrod (Solidago spp.), and joe-pye weed (Eutrochium spp.). 

For bonus points, you can also fall plant some of these flowers. Prairie Moon Nursery has some great native flower and plant mixes suitable for fall sowing.

Leave the Leaves for Bees

Leaves are a natural part of the soil cycle. They break down over the winter and help your lawn and garden grow. They also provide an essential habitat for nesting and overwintering bees and other pollinators. If you must remove them from your lawn, try piling them in a corner or using them as mulch in your garden. The bees and soil will thank you!

Leave the Leaves is a campaign by the Xerxes Society to encourage landowners to let leaves decompose naturally or appropriately manage them for pollinator habitat. You can join the campaign and help educate others by using the #leavetheleaves hashtag.

Save the Stems

Additionally, some bees also take shelter in plant stems over the winter. Leaving these plant stems standing can provide them with essential habitat. In the spring, female bees will also use dead plant stems to lay their eggs.

Check out the Xerces Society chart for Supporting Stem Nesting Bees.

Plant Some Native Shrubs and Trees

In the Southeast, fall is often an ideal time to plant perennials, trees, and shrubs. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall give plants a chance to get established. This fall is a great time to think about some perennials that could provide food and habitat for bees, helping to attract them to your vegetable garden. Great options include:

• American Witchhazel (Hamamelis virginiana L.) 
• Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
• Downy Serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea)
• Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Sweetbary Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana)
• Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida)

Protect Your Garden (and bees) from Pesticides and Herbicides

The first and easiest step is to avoid using these products yourself. Unfortunately, it’s not that simple today.

In the past, many gardeners relied on manure from nearby farms. However, many folks have had the misfortune of finding out they brought in contaminated manure when their plants died.

If you want to use manure, you need to be sure of exactly what the animals are eating. When horses, cows, or other livestock eat feed and hay contaminated with herbicides and pesticides, these will make it through their systems, into the manure, and eventually, your garden.

If you live in an area where neighbors use chemicals, you may also have issues with wind or water bringing them onto your property. Supporting local organizations that focus on conservation and gently encouraging others to support biodiversity can help. You can also use windbreaks and hedges to offer your property some natural protection.

Our native bees are in trouble! While we often think about planting flowers for bees in spring, there are several critical steps we can take to help them this fall. What do you do to save the bees?