Category Archives: Garden Advice

Valentine’s Day: 10 Red or Pink Crops

Tomorrow is Valentine’s Day! Hallmark holiday, though it may be, we decided a little celebration was in order, so we compiled a list of ten of our favorite red and pink varieties. These beautiful red and pink vegetables, flowers, and herbs are sure to leave a mark on your heart.

Sweet Valentine Romaine Lettuce
Sweet Valentine Romaine Lettuce

Sweet Valentine Lettuce

We couldn’t have a Valentine’s list without including Sweet Valentine! This romaine lettuce has deep red leaves and is the sweetest lettuce we offer. It’s perfect for spring planting, and the heads hold long into the summer heat without bolting. 

Scarlet Runner Bean
Scarlet Runner Bean

Scarlet Runner Beans

Easily recognized for its scarlet red flowers, these beans look just as at home in an ornamental garden as in a vegetable patch. Scarlet Runner beans are a timeless heirloom that dates to pre-1750. Early colonists grew these beans after receiving seeds from Native Americans. They are beloved by gardeners alike.

They’ve got more than good looks, though! Scarlet Runner beans produce 8-12 inch pods with mottled reddish-purple beans. Harvest these versatile beans as snap beans when pods are small, or use them as green shelly or dried beans, each offering a unique culinary experience. Dried beans from the Runner Bean possess a delightful nut-like flavor.

For optimal growth, be aware that high temperatures over 90°F may limit pod set. If grown for consumption, expect pod production primarily during late summer or early fall in the Mid-Atlantic and southward. A bulbous root is produced in mild climates, allowing for fall digging and spring replanting.

Oxheart Tomato
Oxheart Tomato

Oxheart Tomato

These heavy-yielding tomatoes produce large, pink fruit weighing one to two pounds! Their distinctive oxheart shape resulted from a genetic mutation, probably around 1925! They have firm, meaty flesh with few seeds and mild flavor.

Beaujolais Spinach
Beaujolais Spinach

Beaujolais Spinach

The fantastic folks at Uprising Seeds recently bred this OSSI variety. Beaujolais has glowing magenta or red veins, much like Swiss chard. However, its smooth, tender leaves are milder than baby chard. We’ve found that it bolts sooner in spring than Bloomsdale types but has good survival of winter freezes.

Pink Zinnias
Pink Zinnias

Pink Zinnias

These stunning pink flowers are new to the Southern Exposure Seed Exchange listings for 2024. Pink zinnias are easy to grow and produce a smorgasbord of pink flowers on tall plants. They have a lovely mix of single, double, and semi-double flowers. 

One of the best features of zinnias is that if you keep up with deadheading, zinnias can bloom until frost!

Crosby Egyptian (Early Crosby Egyptian) Beet
Crosby Egyptian (Early Crosby Egyptian) Beet

Crosby Egyptian (Early Crosby Egyptian) Beet

Beets are, without a date, one of the most intensely red vegetables we have! Before the advent of chemical dyes, beets were often the red dye of choice for cloth and food. 

These Crosby Egyptian Beets are one of our favorite historical varieties introduced in 1880. Their parent strain originated in Germany in 1865. Crosby Egyptian beets grow predominantly on the surface of the soil. They grow 3 to 5 inches wide and have a unique flattened shape. They have a rich red interior. 

Lipstick Sweet Pepper
Lipstick Sweet Pepper

Lipstick Sweet Pepper

Bred at Johnny’s Selected Seeds, these bright, sweet peppers are one of our earliest varieties. They’re great for short-season areas because they’re ready to harvest in just 55 days! Lipstick produces chunky, triangular peppers with flavorful, juicy flesh. The plants grow about 4 feet tall.

Thai Red Roselle
Thai Red Roselle

Thai Red Roselle

This hibiscus species produces bright red calyxes you can use to make “zingy” tea, sauce, syrup, jam, or even candy whole for a unique treat. Historically known as “Florida cranberry” in the 1890s, this plant offers edible flowers and young leaves with a citrus tang, perfect for Burmese cooking!

Thai Red produces beautiful 3 to 5-foot plants with striking red stems and leaf veins. These plants thrive in warmer climates and need plenty of space for good production.

Cherry Belle Radish
Cherry Belle Radish

Cherry Belle Radish

Cherry Belles are our sweetest spring radishes! Ready in just 24 days, they bring a lot of color and flavor to the garden early in the season with their round roots, bright red skin, and firm white flesh.

Cherry Belles are less susceptible to developing pithiness than other varieties and were the 1949 All-American Selection winner. 

Bowling Red Okra
Bowling Red Okra

Bowling Red Okra

This heirloom was stewarded by the Bowling family of Virginia since the 1920s and was one of the best varieties in the Kerr Center’s trial of 30 heirloom varieties! The early, productive plants have beautiful red stems, red-veined leaves, and long, slim, tender red pods. 

If you’re ordering yourself a little Valentine’s Day seed list, be sure to add a splash of red or pink! These stunning varieties will bring a lot of color to the garden and table in the coming season.

Top Tips for Growing Broccoli

Broccoli is among the first spring crops we begin tucking into trays indoors. It’s got a lot going for it, too. Broccoli is cold-hardy, packed with vitamins, and edible in its entirety, including the leaves, stem, and flower head. It’s also a simple crop to start from seed; no scarification, stratification, or heat mats are needed. Broccoli is a low-maintenance seedling. Like all crops, broccoli isn’t without its growing challenges. To ensure you have success growing broccoli this season, follow these steps and tips!

When to Sow Broccoli Indoors

For these first spring plantings, you’ll want to know your estimated last frost date. We like to have transplants ready to go about one month before our last frost, so we start broccoli seedlings indoors about 4 to 5 weeks before that. Generally, we’re starting broccoli indoors between January 31st and May 31st.

When to Transplant Broccoli

As mentioned above, you can start transplanting broccoli out about one month before your last estimated frost date. Generally, we’re setting out broccoli plants between March 15th and July 15th, with the later dates intended for fall harvest. 

While broccoli is cold-hardy, you do want to avoid very low temperatures. If seedlings experience 20° F or lower, they may “button up” and only make tiny heads. This is because the plants will think that they’ve gone through a winter and that it’s time to flower.

When transplanting, give your broccoli adequate space. Usually, rows 12 to 16 inches apart is a good spacing for broccoli. 

Direct Sowing Broccoli

Many people choose to transplant broccoli as it can help plants reach maturity before the weather gets hot. However, you can also direct sow broccoli seeds. We like to direct sow broccoli from about March 10th through July 1st.

Check out our tips for direct sowing in hot weather.

Brassica Seedlings
Brassica Seedlings

Tips for Growing Broccoli

Broccoli isn’t high maintenance, but like any crop, it thrives with a bit of attention. Here are a few steps you can take to ensure your broccoli produces well.

Mulch Deeply

Broccoli produces best when the soil is kept cool, moist, and weed-free. A deep layer of mulch, particularly in the warmer months, can make a big difference in broccoli plantings. 

Water Consistently

Again, broccoli will only produce nice heads if it has enough moisture. Consistent watering is essential, especially during hot, dry weather. 

Keep the Cabbage Worms Away

Almost every gardener who has grown brassicas has dealt with the dreaded cabbage worms at some point. The name cabbage worms often refers to several species, all of which use brassicas as their primary host plant. These include the Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae), The Cabbage Moth (Mamestra brassicae), and the Cabbage Looper (Trichoplusia ni). They lay their eggs on brassicas, and the eggs hatch into very hungry little caterpillars that can turn cabbages to lace and infiltrate beautiful heads of broccoli. 

Row Cover

Thankfully, there are some simple, organic methods for keeping them away. One of our favorites is to cover your plants with row cover. Usually, you can purchase a lightweight netting row cover and wire hoops to hold it off your plants. Tulle from your local fabric store works just as well and might be a cheaper option. You can also DIY the hoops from PVC or other flexible materials. 

Organic Insecticides

One organic method is B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis). This natural, soil-dwelling bacteria damages the caterpillars’ guts that feed on it. It’s safe for humans, and you can find OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) certified products for use on your plants.

Neem oil is another popular choice for repelling cabbage worms. It’s a naturally occurring oil from neem trees that can be applied to your broccoli. Like B.t., you can find OMRI-certified neem oil.

Companion Planting

Cabbage worms are often a more aggressive, intense issue in monoculture plantings. Though they can be more complicated to maintain, gardens mixed with flowers and other vegetables tend to have fewer pest issues. Some specific crops, like Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), are especially noted for their ability to repel cabbage worms.

De Cicco Broccoli
De Cicco Broccoli

Harvesting Broccoli

After being transplanted into the garden, maturity typically ranges from 60 to 90 days, but it can vary. If you’re starting broccoli from seed rather than transplanting seedlings, you must add approximately 25 days to the maturity timeline. This accounts for the additional time it takes for broccoli plants to grow and mature from the seedling stage to full maturity.

Harvest your broccoli heads when they’re deep green and tightly packed. Those heads that have begun to flower or turn yellow should be harvested immediately or left for seed.

Don’t pull your broccoli right away after harvesting the main head. Side-sprouting varieties have smaller central heads with many side sprouts, a valuable feature for extended harvest.

Saving Seed from Broccoli

If you have a few heads that get past their prime, let them go to flower! Many pollinators love brassica flowers, and eventually, you will get seed.

Just know that broccoli will cross with any brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kohlrabi, and kale that’s flowering at the same time. Broccoli Raab will cross with Chinese cabbage, turnips, and some rapeseed (canola). Isolate by 1/8 mile for home use. For pure seed of small plantings, isolate by 1/4 to 1/2 mile.

Broccoli is a great, cold-hardy crop to have in your spring garden. Follow these tips for growing broccoli to help your plants thrive and produce beautiful heads this season!

Starting a Vegetable Garden in February

“Anyone who thinks that gardening begins in the spring and ends in the fall is missing the best part of the whole year. For gardening begins in January, begins with the dream.” 

~Josephine Nuese

If you’ve spent this month dreaming of a garden, now is a great time to put some action behind those dreams! February is the perfect month to start a vegetable garden. Here are a few simple steps you can take to get started today. 

Plan Your Layout

Planning your garden’s layout can help you maximize your space. You’ll need to decide on details like what types of beds you want to create, where your pathways will be, and where you’ll plant any perennials on your list. It’s essential to get a good feel for your layout. You want to ensure you can reach across beds and have plenty of room to maneuver a wheelbarrow.

Once you have the structure laid out, you can design your plantings. Remember that you’ll want to rotate your crop families each year. For example, nightshades like tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes shouldn’t be planted in the same bed for a couple of years. You may also consider companion plantings. A mix of chives, tomatoes, cabbages, and marigolds rather than monoculture blocks helps deter pests.Hand holding freshly dug carrots

Prepare or Build Your Beds

Depending on what type of beds you’re creating, you’ll need to take different steps to get started. You can use no-till methods like hugelkultur or lasagna beds, though these will generally take longer to be ready for planting. You can also try a traditional garden, double digging, or raised beds. 

If you’re opting for the raised bed route, starting them now is a good idea. You’ll want to choose a solid material, but avoid pressure-treated or other chemical-treated lumber that could leach into the soil. Fill your beds with good-quality soil and finished compost if you want to be able to plant in them this spring. 

Install Fencing

Open gardens may be the beautiful idea you have in mind, but odds are you’ll need to install some fencing to keep the critters out. On the East Coast, gardeners contend with cottontails, groundhogs, raccoons, and tons of white-tailed deer, among other creatures. A good, tall, sturdy fence is a significant investment but will save you a lot of heartache and trouble in the long run.

Order Seeds

If you haven’t already ordered seeds, it’s time to get a move on! Planting time for some crops is already here and is drawing closer for others. It’s time to finalize your seed list and send it in.

We also have a list of other small seed companies that share our values and could use your support if you don’t find what you’re looking for on our website.

Start Seeds

To new gardeners, February may seem an odd time to be planting, but it is the perfect time for many of our cold hardy spring crops. This month, you can start broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, onions, and other greens indoors. 

It may be a little cold and dreary, but don’t let that deter you. Spring is just around the corner, and February is a great month to start a vegetable garden.