Category Archives: Garden Advice

7 Tips for Growing Potatoes

Potatoes can be one of the easiest staple crops to grow, providing pounds of food for relatively little effort. Unfortunately, they can also have many problems! If you’ve struggled to grow large harvests of good-quality potatoes, you’re not alone. Thankfully, there are a few simple steps to take to have a more successful year. Here are our best tips for growing potatoes.

Always Rotate Your Potatoes & Nightshades

Unfortunately, potatoes are susceptible to a number of diseases, including the destructive pathogen Phytophthora infestans, which caused the late potato blight of the notorious potato famine.



One of the best ways to avoid this and other diseases is to always rotate your potato crops, ideally on a three to four-year rotation. This rotation should include all the other nightshades that could play host to the same diseases, including peppers, tomatoes, tomatillos, okra, and eggplants. Don’t plant any of these in the same bed for three to four years.

Water Consistently While Growing Potatoes



Many folks don’t irrigate potatoes even if they water their other crops. The assumption is that potatoes are a bit tougher. While they are in some ways, inconsistent watering can lead to decreased production and serious issues like hollow heart a type of cell death inside the tuber that creates a hollow in the center.



Potatoes should receive 1 to 2 inches of water or rain per week. This is crucial while they’re flowering and forming tubers. When the potato plants start to turn yellow and die back, you can discontinue watering to allow for a drier, easier harvest.

Flowering potato plant with potato beetle larvae
Flowering potato plant with potato beetle larvae

Watch for Potato Beetles



Colorado potato beetles (Leptinotarsa decemlineata) can be a major issue for many gardeners, defoliating entire plants. Unfortunately, they’re resistant to many pesticides, both organic and conventional. The best way to deal with them is to watch for them carefully and handpick them into a bucket of soap water. You can also smash the eggs and larvae.

Check out this helpful University of Minnesota Extension article to learn how to identify them in their different life stages.


Get Your Soil Tested

 for Growing Potatoes

Potatoes aren’t super picky, but they do perform best in specific soil conditions. Light, well-drained soil that’s rich in organic matter is ideal. They thrive in acidic soil when the pH is 4.8 – 5.5. Potatoes are more susceptible to scab in soil with a pH of 6.0 or higher.



Potatoes also need good levels of certain nutrients. To produce well, they need decent levels of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Low potassium levels can also contribute to issues like hollow heart. Adding good quality compost to your soil can help with these things, but it’s worth getting a soil test, especially if you’ve had problems in the past. 


Hill Up Your Potatoes When the Stems Reach 6 to 8 Inches Tall



Re-burying your potato stems may seem like an odd idea, especially if you’re new to gardening, but it is crucial for good potato harvests. Potatoes produce tubers along the stem; when you hill them up so that only the top leaves stick out of the soil, new potatoes form along the stem in the new section of soil.



Hilling potatoes also helps with weed and moisture control and minimizes greening on potatoes that may have been forming near the surface. It also helps keep the soil cooler in the heat of summer.
Rows of potato plants (growing potatoes)

Plant a Late Potato Crop for Storage



If you just grow a few potatoes for fresh eating, you can plant them in early spring. Many folks choose St. Patrick’s Day as the traditional spring planting day. However, if you want good storage potatoes, planting some late potatoes is a good idea. We usually plant a second batch in June. These late potatoes may have a lower yield but store better for winter eating.


Harvest, Cure, and Store Potatoes Properly



You can gently harvest a few fresh potatoes about 2 to 3 weeks after the plants flower. However, your main harvest should come 2 to 3 weeks after the plants have died back completely. This ensures they will keep well. Then, potatoes must be adequately cured before they can go into storage.



Visit our Harvesting and Curing Potatoes post for the full process.

 

There are many wonderful potato varieties available for the home garden, from tried-and-true favorites like Yukon Gold to newer varieties like the beautiful Adirondack Blue. These potatoes make excellent, productive staple crops, especially if you give them a little care. Follow these seven tips for growing potatoes to have a successful harvest this season.

7 Social Media Garden Myths to Avoid

Social media can be a great source of gardening inspiration and advice. Unfortunately, it can also be full of not-so-great advice. In today’s post, we’ve rounded up some of the common garden myths we’ve seen on social media recently. We dive into why they’re incorrect and what you can do instead.

Grind or Dehydrate Food Scraps for Fertilizer

The problem: Many sites recommend grinding or dehydrating food scraps, then soaking them in water and straining them or adding them directly to the garden. While this isn’t an extremely harmful practice, it is a bit wasteful. Despite your efforts of grinding or dehydrating, microbes will still need to break down those scraps to make them accessible to your plants. 

The solution: Food scraps make excellent fertilizer after being composted. Setting up a home composting system is simple and requires no fancy equipment. Homemade compost is a gardener’s gold, helping you add nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Read more about making compost on our Black Gold post. 

Epsom Salt is Good for Plants

The problem: Epsom salts are often touted as a great general garden amendment or as a good way to prevent blossom end rot in tomatoes. Unfortunately, adding Epsom salts to the soil can also add too much magnesium. High magnesium levels can prevent plants from taking up calcium and cause issues like blossom end rot. The one time Epsom salts may genuinely be helpful is if a soil test shows your garden is deficient in magnesium, which isn’t common.

The solution: Do the work to determine the cause of the issue you’re dealing with, get your soil tested, and select appropriate amendments with the help of your local agricultural extension agency. 

If blossom end rot is your issue, your plant has likely had trouble taking adequate calcium. Calcium-deficient soil is relatively rare. Calcium is absorbed through the root tips, and failure to do so can be caused by insufficient watering during fruit growth, saturated soils, or fertilizer burn on the root tips. Rapid growth related to overfertilizing can also cause it, as the plant doesn’t have enough time to take up adequate calcium.

This same lesson applies to preventing blossom end rot with egg shells or milk.

Use Coffee Grounds to Lower Your Soil pH

The problem: Contrary to this popular garden myth, coffee grounds don’t alter soil pH. While coffee grounds are a great addition to the compost pile, they won’t help you achieve more acidic soil for crops like blueberries or hydrangeas. 

The solution: If you were previously worried about adding coffee grounds to your compost pile, you have nothing to fear. You won’t create acidic compost. However, if you aim to lower the pH and acidify your soil, opt for elemental sulfur instead. 

Rocks Improve Drainage in Containers

The problem: This garden myth seems like it should be accurate, but water doesn’t always work the way we think it does! Rather than seeping between the rocks, the water moves sideways when it encounters a different layer, creating a saturated zone at the bottom of the soil. It’s known as a “perched water table.” Like a sponge sitting on top of gravel, the potting soil will only release water into the rocks below when it is absolutely saturated.

The solution: Use good-quality potting soil and containers with drainage holes. If you have containers without drainage holes, you can always make some. If you have ceramic pots, you can find ceramic-specific drill bits at most home improvement stores.

Add Banana Peels to the Soil to Increase Potassium

The problem: Banana peels are rich in potassium, but when you bury them in the garden, it’s not quickly accessible to plants. In fact, microbes will have to work to break down the banana peel and sometimes tie up nitrogen in the process. 

The solution: Toss your banana peels in the compost pile to give your plants nutrients in the future. If your soil test shows a potassium deficiency, amend your soil with an organic fertilizer or kelp meal for a more quickly available form of potassium for your crops. 

Add Sand to Heavy Clay Soils to Improve Drainage

The problem: Sandy soils obviously drain better than clay soils, so this one seems like a natural assumption. Unfortunately, this garden myth doesn’t work out well. In reality, the clay particles filter in between the sand particles and become compacted, forming a substance similar to concrete. 

The solution: The best way to improve the drainage of clay soils is to add organic matter. The fastest way to do this is to add finished compost. We recommend top-dressing beds with a couple of inches of finished compost before planting. You can also use cover crops and mulch to help build up organic matter and soil health over time.

Make DIY Insecticides with Hot Peppers and Garlic 

The problem: There are many social media recipes for one-size-fits-all homemade insecticides. These recipes often involve garlic, hot peppers, soap, or some combination of those ingredients, and they may work sometimes. Unfortunately, they may not work with every pest and often don’t address the root of the problem, leaving you to make and apply these sprays continually. They can also damage plants by destroying the waxy layer on leaves or blocking plants’ stomata.

The solution: The first step is to do your research and find out what pest species is snacking on your cops. Then, you can work to take the steps appropriate for that species. For some species, like tomato hornworms, it can be as simple as putting on garden gloves and hand-picking them. For others, like cabbage loopers, you can use a tried and true organic insecticide like B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis), a bacteria that infects them.

Further, you can practice companion planting, crop rotation, and other integrated pest management methods to keep your garden healthy and pest-free over time.

 

Many tips and tricks can make a gardener’s life easier, but not all of these hacks and shortcuts are all that they’re cracked up to be. In many cases, the real solution is to slowly build up healthy soil through compost, cover cropping, and good garden management. Hopefully, you can have a more successful garden this season by avoiding these common social media garden myths. 

Protect Your Garden from Wildlife

Wildlife is often a significant issue for gardeners in the eastern United States. You can have a beautiful-looking garden only to find a row of broccoli mowed down by white-tailed deer, all your strawberries finished off by a possum, or stunning red tomatoes with groundhog bites out of them in a single night. What can we do to protect our gardens from these attacks?

Selecting Wildlife Fencing

Fencing is one of the most effective ways to keep wildlife from destroying your garden. What that fencing looks like for you depends on the animals you have around. Obviously, fencing that keeps out cottontails looks a bit different than fencing that keeps out white-tailed deer. Here are some of the basic considerations when selecting and installing fencing. 

Deer-Proof Fencing

Unfortunately, white-tailed deer can jump high, and experts often recommend an 8-foot fence for those with serious deer problems. However, many folks find that shorter heights work effectively in certain situations. 

Adding a visual barrier, like string lines or flags above a shorter fence, can deter deer. Some folks also find that shorter electric fences are a good enough deterrent for deer. Smaller spaces are also less susceptible because deer don’t like to jump into enclosed spaces. For this reason, two rows of shorter fencing, with one a few feet inside the other, are usually adequate. 

Eastern CottontailSmall Mammal Fencing

Small mammal fencing doesn’t need to be as tall as deer fencing but generally needs to be tighter. A simple row of chicken wire or hardware cloth can work for some animals. However, Groundhogs can be especially tricky due to their knack for digging under fencing. They make some fencing panels with long spikes that go into the ground, which may be effective. Some folks also find electric fencing effective. You may get away with a single strand low to the ground or electro-net fencing. 

What if I Can’t Put Up Fencing?

Fencing isn’t an option for everyone. Renters and those with strict HOAs may not be allowed to use appropriate fencing for wildlife. Additionally, fencing can be costly, and those on a tight budget may not be able to afford to install wildlife fencing. Thankfully, there are a few other options.

Choose Wildlife-Resistant Plants

Certain plants are more wildlife-resistant than others. Generally, these plants are unpalatable to wildlife for a specific reason, like flavor, scent, or irritating leaves. Unfortunately, no plant is 100% wildlife-proof for all animals, so you may need to select plants based on your specific struggle. Here are a few wildlife-resistant options:

Vegetables

  • Onions
  • Garlic
  • Cucumbers (deer-resistant)
  • Squash (deer-resistant)
  • Potatoes

Herbs

  • Fennel
  • Lemon Balm
  • Mint
  • Thyme
  • Chives
  • Wormwood

Flowers

  • Lavender
  • Feverfew
  • Echinacea
  • Yarrow
  • Daylily
  • Soapwort
  • Butterflyweed
  • Coreopsis
Chinese Five-Color Hot Pepper
Chinese Five-Color Hot Pepper

Container Garden

You can also try container gardening if you have a more protected porch, patio, or balcony. Additionally, if you keep the containers limited, you can always move them inside at night. 

Here are a few of our favorite favorite crops for container gardens:

  • Nasturtiums
  • Chinese Five-Color Hot Pepper
  • Glacier Tomato
  • Sugar Cherry Tomato
  • Spicy Bush Basil
  • Misato Rose Radish
  • Swiss Chard
  • Chives
  • Table Queen Bush (Acorn) Squash

Container gardening works well, but you need to tend the plants carefully. Use large, well-draining containers, water often, harvest often, and fertilize as needed. Check out our other container gardening tips. 

Use Wildlife Repellent 

Wildlife repellent isn’t a perfect option, but some gardeners have made it work for them. A few organic options are available in the form of pellets and sprays you use to treat your plants and gardens. Most of these products must be reapplied fairly often or at least every time it rains.  To find organic options, look for the OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) label or visit their website to see their product list.

There are many gardening challenges, and wildlife can be a big one. Hopefully, some of these strategies will help you wildlife-proof a few of your crops this season!