All posts by Jordan Charbonneau

5 Edible Spring Weeds

Spring will come sooner than you think, and it’s a beautiful but challenging time! We’re busy in the garden in the spring, prepping beds, sowing, transplanting, amending, and weeding. However, it will still be weeks before most crops begin to produce. Traditionally, many folks would’ve foraged wild greens this time of year to help fill the “hungry months,” when last year’s stores are running out and this season’s crops have yet to mature. This spring, if you can’t wait to start harvesting, keep these five edible spring weeds in mind!

A Safety Note

None of this information is intended as medical advice. Always consult with a doctor. Avoid consuming any of these plants if you’re taking medications, pregnant, or breastfeeding until you’ve consulted with a medical practitioner. 

Foraging Tips

Harvest sustainably. Don’t take a whole patch or more than you need; try to leave root systems intact. This advice isn’t applicable if you’re pulling weeds from your garden. 

Avoid harvesting any wild edible from areas that may be contaminated, such as roadsides or lawns that have been sprayed with pesticides or other chemicals.

Follow local rules or guidelines if harvesting in public areas.

Purple Dead Nettle (Lamium purpureum)

You’ve likely seen purple dead nettle before, even if you didn’t know what it’s called. Purple Dead Nettle is a common herbaceous plant that has naturalized throughout much of North America.

Once you know what you’re looking for, Purple Dead Nettle is easy to recognize. It has fuzzy heart or arrow-shaped leaves attached directly to a square stem. The leaves transition from green near the base to purple or pink near the top of the stem. The flowers are tiny, tubular purple flowers near the tip.

Purple Dead Nettle can be consumed raw or cooked. You can use the young leaves and the tops of the flower spikes in soups, salads, pestos, and stir-fries. You can also dry it for later use as you would other herbs.

Herbalists also employ purple dead nettle for various reasons. It’s believed to have anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, diuretic, and antibacterial properties. Traditionally, herbalists use purple dead nettle in teas, tinctures, salves, and poultices to boost the immune system, treat minor wounds and irritations, alleviate joint pain, and help ease colds.

Chickweed (Stellaria media)

Native to Eurasia, chickweed has naturalized throughout the world and is a common sight in spring gardens, lawns, and waste places. It’s an annual in most areas but may be perennial in warm climates. 

Chickweed is sparsely hairy with oval, opposite leaves. The lower leaves have stalks or petioles, while the upper leaves are attached directly to the stem. It has dainty white flowers, and if you look closely, you’ll notice that they’re composed of five deeply lobed petals. Chickweed has green seed capsules that may appear hairy or fuzzy.

As the name suggests, it’s often grown for poultry, but it’s pretty tasty and nutritious for humans too! Unlike many wild greens, I’ve found chickweed to be mild and tender. It makes a wonderful addition to salads and pesto.

Chickweed is also sometimes used in folk medicine. It’s rich in iron and is a popular choice among herbalists for treating anemia. Historically, herbalists also employed chickweed to treat mild skin irritations like bug bites, sunburn, bronchitis, arthritis, and period pain.

Cleavers (Galium aparine)

Cleavers is known by many common names such as velcro plant, catchword, bedstraw, stickyweed, and hitchhikers, with most referencing the seeds’ ability to cling to people and animals. It’s native to North Africa, Europe, and Asia but has naturalized worldwide.

Cleavers is a low-growing annual with stems that creep along the ground and may become three feet or longer. The stems are angular or square-shaped and have hooked hairs that allow them to climb over other plants. It has simple narrow lance-shaped leaves borne in whorls of six to eight. 

In early bring or summer, cleavers produces tiny white or greenish, star-shaped flowers. The flowers are followed by spherical burrs forming clusters of two or three. The burrs are covered in hooked hairs that allow them to stick to fur and clothing, aiding in dispersal. 

Despite the hooked hairs, cleavers is edible. The stems, leaves, and flowers can be eaten before the seeds form. They’re best when cooked in dishes like soups and stews. Interestingly, cleavers are in the same family as coffee. The seeds can be roasted and used as a coffee substitute. 

In herbal medicine, folks have used cleavers as a diuretic tea and salve or poultice to treat minor wounds, burns, and rashes. As the common name bedstraw indicates, dried cleavers were once commonly used to stuff mattresses. Cleaver roots were once commonly used to make a permanent red dye. 

Some people experience a skin rash when coming in contact with the hairs of cleavers.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)

Taraxacum is a large genus of plants commonly known as dandelions. While this includes many species, for this post, we’ll focus on one of the most common species worldwide, Taraxacum officinale often referred to as common dandelion or dandelion.

It’s likely that you already know how to identify the common dandelion. The leaves form from the base and are oblanceolate, oblong, or obovate and narrower near the tip. They are usually shallowly or deeply lobed and have sharp or rounded teeth. Dandelions form yellow flowers, followed by seeds attached to silky pappi, which create parachutes allowing for wind dispersal. Dandelions have large taproots.

The leaves, roots, and flowers of dandelions are all edible. The young leaves and buds are often eaten raw in salads. Older leaves get more bitter and are better for use in cooked dishes. The roots can be eaten like other root vegetables or dried and ground into a coffee substitute. 

Dandelion flowers are often used to make dandelion wine or are sometimes added to baked goods. Recently, there has been some concern about using so many flowers and how this may harm bees. In reality, dandelions are not bees’ earliest or preferred food source. Many other species provide good early nutrition for bees, like willow blossoms and violets. Additionally, pruning dandelions encourages growth. 

Herbalists use dandelions internally and externally to help treat various ailments. They are believed to help with indigestion, support a healthy liver, treat inflammation, heal mild skin irritations, and more. 

Lambsquarters (Chenopodium album) 

Native to Europe, lambsquarters is now naturalized worldwide and is known by many names, including goosefoot, white goosefoot, fat-hen, wild spinach, and meld. Although it’s a cultivated plant in some areas, it’s considered a noxious weed in many others and can significantly impact crop yields. 

Lambsquarters leaves are widely varied in appearance but are generally more or less diamond-shaped and toothed. They grow in an alternate arrangement on the stem and often have a mealy white coating, especially on the underside. The stems have conspicuous grooves and are hairless and branched. The flowers form in clusters at the stem ends and are green and unassuming. They give way to shiny, black to brown seeds encased in star-shaped papery coverings.

The leaves, young shoots, flowers, and buds of lambsquarters are all edible and make an excellent cooked green. However, lambsquarters are high in oxalic acid and should be eaten in moderation. The seeds can also be eaten like a grain. Archeologists have found them mixed with other grains at Roman, Viking age, and Iron Age sites. It is also used as animal feed.

Herbalists often use lambsquarters to create a poultice for insect bites, sunburn, rashes, and minor wounds. Historically it has also been made into a tea to treat or prevent scurvy, diarrhea, gout, and rheumatic pains. 

Recipes

 



Selecting Corn for the Home Garden

When I started gardening, I only had the vaguest of understandings of different types of corn. My family had grown some hybrid sweet corn, and I knew that the popcorn they sold in the stores and the stuff people used as decorations in the fall were different. If you’re new to gardening or heirlooms, you might be in the same place. Browsing catalogs that offered heirloom and open-pollinated varieties of corn opened my eyes to the wide range of possibilities. It can be a bit overwhelming, so here are a few things to consider when selecting corn for the home garden. 

Hybrid Sweet Corn

We carry two varieties of hybrid sweet corn at SESE. Hybrid sweet corn has the advantage of typically maturing all at once, which can be helpful for some farmers. Most hybrids have also been bred to be extra sweet and to hold their sweetness after being harvested. Hybrid corn also has weak seedling vigor and doesn’t perform well in cool soil. For good pollination and ear development, open-pollinated corn should be planted in blocks at least four rows wide.

Open-Pollinated Sweet Corn

Unlike hybrid sweet corn, open-pollinated varieties often don’t mature all at once and aren’t always uniform in size. This feature can be helpful for home gardeners looking to harvest over a more extended period. They also have a more old-fashioned corn flavor that many home gardeners and seed savers value. The seedlings tend to be more tolerant of insect damage and cool temperatures than their hybrid counterparts. Open-pollinated corn should be planted in blocks at least 5-6 rows wide for good pollination and ear development.

Popcorn

Unlike sweet corn, you harvest popcorn when it’s fully mature and dry. You’ll then need to dry it further for it to pop nicely. Popcorn can be removed from the ear by hand or with a sheller to make the process easier. Today, we mainly use popcorn for popping, but traditionally some Native Americans also ground popcorn to make bread.

Flint, Dent, & Flour Corn

All three of these broad categories are types of grain corn. However, they differ in climactic adaptation, kernel composition, kernel shape, and best culinary uses.

Flint corns are a traditional favorite of the northeast because they thrive in cold, wet climates. They have hard, pointed kernels and are a good choice for cooking methods that involve boiling, like making polenta or johnnycakes.

Dent corns are what we focus on at Southern Exposure. They are typically heirlooms of the southeast and midwest. They get their name from their tell-tale dent created by a flinty ring surrounding a floury center which sinks and creates the characteristic dent as it dries out. Heirloom dent corns make excellent cornbread, hominy, and roasting ears. Some old-timers prefer eating the starchy dent corns in the same manner as sweet corns.

Flour corns are commonly grown in the Southwest but have been grown in many areas. They have soft, rounded kernels and, as the name suggests, are typically ground into flour. Their soft kernels create fine flour that can be used like wheat flour and is excellent for baking.

Gourdseed Corn

Gourdseed our one of our oldest corns and dates back to at least 1700. They were once commonly grown in southern Virginia and were used for feed, roasting, and flour. The plants are heavily stalked and bear ears having a large number of rows of thin, deep kernels. Some varieties were so easy to shell that it only took a light touch to the ear.

Gourdseed corns were grown until about 1940 before hybrids became popular. In 1889, gourdseed corn won the Great Corn Contest sponsored by the American Agriculturist, yielding 255 bushels per acre. Because of interest in hybrid corn, gourdseed corns were virtually extinct by the 1960s, but recently they have been found to be valuable because of their resistance to some diseases, notably southern leaf blight. After a year-long search for this disease-resistant variety, Dr. Brown, former president of Pioneer Hi-Bred rediscovered gourdseed corn on a Texas farm.

 

There’s so much more diversity to explore than just a few varieties of sweetcorn you’ll find at your local grocery store. I highly encourage anyone with the space to grow some of their own corn and experience the joy of tasting sweet and nutty cornbreads, colorful, buttery popcorns, or sweet corns with vibrant flavors and histories. 

 

Basics: How to Start Seeds Indoors

Starting seeds indoors during the cold and dark of winter might be one of the greatest joys for a gardener. It means that greener, sunnier times are coming. Starting seeds indoors isn’t difficult, but there are a few tricks of the trade. Here’s everything you need to know to start seeds indoors and care for your seedlings successfully. 

Gather Supplies & Calendar

To start seeds indoors, you need a few basic supplies. You’ll need a shelf or table, containers, seed starting mix, lights, and a waterer. It’s easiest to have a good setup before you begin. You’ll also need to know the appropriate times to start seeds in your area. It’s a good idea to have or make a calendar for this. 

Earlier in our basics series, we covered what you need to start seeds and when you should start seeds. Please refer to those posts for complete details. 

Follow Planting Recommendations

When starting the seeds you purchased, follow the package instructions or the growing guide. 

Look at planting depth. Some seeds need light to germinate, and you’ll need gently press them into the soil’s surface, while other seeds need to stay moist and dark, and you should plant them at 1/4 inch deep or more.

Try using the tip of a pencil to make holes in the seed starting mix for your seeds.

Consider additional requirements. Some varieties need a bit of extra attention before sowing. Watch for seeds that should be soaked overnight or stratified before planting. 

If you have seeds you got from a friend or seed swap without directions, do a little digging about what that variety needs to thrive. 

Keep Moist

Your containers should have drainage, and you should avoid over or under-watering. Seedlings should be kept moist but not soggy. If the roots sit in water, your plants will fail to thrive. 

A pump-up water mister or sprayer can make watering much more effortless. Using a fine spray can help dislodge tiny seeds and seedlings, and you can swap to a larger traditional watering can as plants grow larger.

The larger your seedlings get, the more water they’ll use, so be sure to take extra care to check them as they grow. Using warm lights or heat maps can also increase your need for watering. 

Adjust Lighting

You’ll also need to adjust your lighting as your seedlings grow. As discussed in our previous post about supplies, you’ll need to provide your seedlings with auxiliary lights hanging above them. 

Keep these lights 2 to 4 inches away from the tops of the seedlings. As your seedlings grow, you’ll want to raise them, so they don’t burn the tops of the plants. However, if you notice your seedlings getting tall and spindly, you should lower your lights.

Fertilize

Seed-starting mixes are great for starting seeds but only provide a few nutrients. If your seedlings grow in containers for an extended period, you’ll need to give them fertilizer. 

The easiest way to give seedlings a boost is to add liquid fertilizer to the water. Liquid kelp is an excellent organic option, and just a tablespoon or two added to a gallon of water goes a long way. Some folks also choose to water with compost tea. 

For liquid kelp or other purchased fertilizers, follow package instructions when available. You should cut the amount in half if the instructions are for mature plants. 

Pot Up as Needed

Your seedlings may outgrow your containers before you’re ready to transplant them. It’s a good idea to have a few larger containers on hand, about an inch or two wider than the existing containers. 

Potting up provides fresh soil and space. If left in small containers, seedlings can become root bound where the roots wrap around the inside of the pot, and can take longer to begin growing after you transplant them. 

You should repot most seedlings so that the stem is at the same level as in the initial pot. Tomatoes can be repotted deeper, with soil covering the stem up to just below their leaves, as they will grow new roots from the stem. 

It’s almost February! In the Southeast, we’re ready to start seeds indoors, and you probably are too. Follow these tips to start seeds indoors and care for them until spring for a bountiful garden in the coming season.