Tag Archives: pest control

Cucumber Beetles: Management & Prevention

Spring is full of hope. It’s tough to think about pests as we’re dreaming of the season to come, but spring is a good time to prepare for common garden pests like cucumber beetles. Learning to identify, prevent, and treat cucumber beetles can help ensure you have a productive season. 

What are Cucumber Beetles?

When people say “cucumber beetle” they’re often referring to more than one species. Here in the Southeast, we typically see striped cucumber beetles (Acalymma vittatum) and spotted cucumber beetles (Diabrotica undecimpunctata). 

In other parts of North America, you may find other beetles that fall into the cucumber beetle category like western striped cucumber beetle (Acalymma trivittatum).

Adult striped cucumber beetles feature a dark head, dark antennae, and yellow back, typically with three distinct black stripes running the length. They are about 1/4 inch long. They feed on vegetables in the cucurbit family, including zucchini, cucumbers, yellow squash, pumpkins, watermelons, and winter squash.

Adult spotted cucumber beetles feature a dark head, dark antennae, greenish yellow backs with six black spots. They are about 1/4 inch long. In their adult form, these beetles may feed on cucurbits like cucumbers and squash along with other crops like corn, beans, cotton, and soybeans 

Besides the physical damage from feeding, cucumber beetles are also vectors for several plant diseases, including squash mosaic virus, cucumber mosaic virus, bacterial wilt, and Fusarium wilt.

Striped Cucumber Beetles on a damaged leaf
Striped Cucumber Beetles by Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University / © Bugwood.org

Cucumber Beetle Life Cycle

Both species of cucumber beetle overwinter as adults. They often remain in plant debris in or near the garden. Depending on your location, they leave their hibernation sites in mid-April to June as the temperatures rise. 

The adults feed on seedlings and can kill the plants. They lay their eggs near the base of cucurbit host plants. When their larvae hatch, they feed on the plants’ roots. 

The larvae grow and emerge from the soil as adults between July and September. They continue to feed on plants as adults before finding places to overwinter before cold temperatures set in.

Striped Cucumber Beetles in a Squash Blossom
D. Gordon E. Robertson, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Signs of Cucumber Beetles

Often gardeners will find the cucumber beetles on their plants. They feed on the stems, leaves, flowers, and fruit, often near the soil. Besides finding adult beetles on the plants, there are a few telltale signs that your garden may have a cucumber beetle problem.

You may notice plants wilting, particularly at the cotelydon stage on young plants. At this stage, large amounts of beetles may also completely defoliate or kill the plants.

On large plants, they create holes in the flowers and leaves. Large infestations may girdle plant stems, weakening or killing the plant. Infested plants may also be more susceptible to lodging in high winds. Cucumber beetles will also feed on the fruit, leaving scars and pockmarks on the surface.

You may also notice disease like bacterial wilt, Fusarium wilt, squash mosaic virus, or cucumber mosaic virus killing your plants. Cucumber beetles may spread these diseases.

Spotted Cucumber Beetle eating a leaf
Matthew T Rader, https://matthewtrader.com, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

How to Prevent Cucumber Beetles

Prevention is the best treatment! While there is no way to guarantee a cucumber-beetle-free garden, there are a few ways you can deter them and reduce their impact.

  • Provide habitat for predatory insects and animals. Researchers have found lower numbers of cucumber beetles in fields with higher populations of wolf spiders and carabid beetles. Encouraging these beneficial insects and other wildlife, like songbirds and toads which feed on the beetles, can help reduce their numbers.
  • If you have a severe infestation, follow a strict fall clean-up. As the adult beetles must overwinter, you can kill them in the fall. Thoroughly clean up any gardens infested with beetles. Destroy plant material and till the garden to exposure them to the cold temperatures.
  • Rotate your crops by family. Cucumber beetles often overwinter right in the garden. Practice crop rotation to avoid planting cucurbits into beds with overwintering populations.
  • Transplant your cucumbers and other cucurbits rather than direct sowing. This will protect new seedlings from cucumber beetle damage.
  • Plant late. If cucumber beetles are regularly a problem on your young plants, sowing or transplanting late may help. Cucumber beetles are most tempted in spring but young, weak seedlings. Waiting to plant until summer can reduce the damage to seedlings.
  • Plant trap crops 3 to 8 feet from your main crop. Certain crops like Hubbard squash are highly attractive to cucumber beetles. Plant them to lure the beetles away from your other crops. When they’re heavily infested, you can burn them to knock back cucumber beetle populations.
  • Try companion planting. Some gardeners have luck deterring cucumber beetles with companion plants. Recommended companion plants include nasturtiums, radishes, marigolds, and catnip.
  • Plant under row cover. Row cover is useful for excluding cucumber beetles from the plants. Just remember to remove it when the plants flower to allow for pollination. 

How to Treat Cucumber Beetles

While prevention is best, if you notice you have cucumber beetles this season, there are a few steps you can take. 

The first is to physically remove the beetles. Handpicking is tough with cucumber beetles, but if you only have a few plants, it may be worth it. Some gardeners have luck with rubbing petroleum jelly on the fingertips of their gloves to help them grab these little insects. 

A slightly easier solution is to use a handheld vacuum to suck up the beetles before dumping them into a container of soapy water.

Yellow sticky traps are another popular way to kill cucumber beetles. Keep in mind these traps can also capture pollinators and other beneficial insects visiting the plants. 

There are few chemical controls available (organic or otherwise). Cucurbits are sensitive, making them tough to treat in this way. One organic solution some gardeners use is neem oil. 

Organic Slug Control

Many of our customers occasionally struggle with pests. Unfortunately, they’re a part of gardening! One common issue we see, especially in spring and early summer, is slug damage. These slimy little creatures are active at night and during cool temperatures, snacking on your plants, especially young, tender foliage. They can take out entire seedlings or reduce your harvest from tasty crops like tomatoes and strawberries. Learn how to identify and combat a slug problem with organic methods. 

Signs of Slugs

  • Shiny slime trails across leaves and the ground.
  • Irregularly shaped holes in leaves, flowers, and fruit.
  • Look for slugs at night or on rainy days.
  • Look for slugs under lower leaves, boards, and other cool, moist shelters.

Deter Slugs

Slugs thrive under certain conditions. To prevent them from becoming an issue, avoid making your garden an attractive habitat for them. 

Here are some ways to deter them:

  • Prune lower branches and foliage to encourage air circulation and sunlight.
  • Stake plants like tomatoes to encourage air circulation and keep fruit off the ground. 
  • Divide or thin plants to encourage air circulation and sunlight.
  • Remove natural mulch, like old leaves, at least temporarily.
  • Add compost to beds, improve soil, and improve drainage to help combat wet conditions over time.
  • Remove places where slugs could hide, like containers, flats, stones, boards, etc.
  • Use water-wise gardening techniques like drip irrigation or soaker hoses to minimize excess moisture. 
European Starling
European Starlings are not native to the U.S. but are common in the southeast and are incredible slug predators.

Attract Predators

In the long term, attracting slug predators can also be an effective way to manage slugs. We think they look a little slimy, but many creatures, such as slugs, beetles, toads, turtles, snakes, ducks, and certain songbirds, find them to be a tasty treat. Providing habitats for these animals within your garden can encourage them to stay and eliminate slug populations.

Handpick or Trap Slugs

One of the simplest ways to get rid of slugs is to handpick them. Put on some garden gloves and head out at night with a flashlight for a bit of slug hunting. Then, crush the slugs or toss them into a bucket of soapy water.

While we previously mentioned getting rid of slug homes like boards, you could add them to make the perfect trap. Each morning, flip your board and kill any slugs you find. 

Another classic method for dealing with slugs is the good old-fashioned beer trap. Take small containers or dishes and bury them a bit in the garden so the top is level with the ground. Then, fill them with beer or a water and yeast mixture. The slugs will be attracted to the beer or yeast mixture, fall in, and drown. If you have a serious problem, you may need to put out a good number of traps and change them daily.

Organic Slug Baits & Deterennts

Coating plants with a heavy dusting of diatomaceous earth can help keep slugs at bay. However, it must be reapplied frequently and isn’t always a great long-term solution.

Copper foil or bands are another effective slug deterrent. While they can easily be affixed to a single raised bed, they may not be an efficient choice for large gardens.

You can also purchase organic baits like Sluggo, which is OMRI-certified. If you want to use slug bait, this is a good option because it’s safe for pets and non-toxic. It’s made from iron phosphate.

Many other slug baits are toxic to other animals, including pets and young children. Always select and use garden products carefully.

We always aim to work with nature to create beautiful, bountiful gardens. Unfortunately, pests will always be an occasional issue in any garden, whether organic or conventional. Thankfully, slugs are a relatively easy pest to deal with, and you can use these simple strategies to deter and eliminate them.

Protect Your Crops with Row Cover

If you’ve ever visited an organic vegetable farm, you’ve probably seen large sections of field blanketed in white cloth. Sometimes, it’s laid directly over the crops, and sometimes it’s held above them over small hoops, giving it the appearance of a long caterpillar sleeping in the garden. This gauze-like white fabric is called row cover. It’s typically made from woven or spun-bonded polyester or polypropylene and is designed to be permeable to air, light, and water. Farmers and gardeners can use this fabric to help protect crops from pests, cold temperatures, too much sun, and windburn.

Protect Your Crops From Wind

Wide open fields may be many gardeners’ dream, but they can be windy places! High winds can be tough on plants, especially tender transplants. Constant winds pull moisture from the soil and plants’ leaves. They can also tear leaves and damage limbs, leaving plants more susceptible to pests and disease. Using row cover in windy areas, especially as plants are getting established, can mitigate these issues.

Protect Your Crops From Sun

Shade cloth is similar to row cover but is generally used to protect plants from intense sun and heat. It’s often used to extend the growing season of greens, delaying bolting by keeping temperatures a bit cooler. It can also be used in extreme heat over crops like peppers and tomatoes, which may abort flowers or develop sun-scald.

If you can’t purchase shade cloth, you can hang old torn pieces of row cover or other thin fabrics over crops to provide some shade.

Protect Your Crops From Frost 

As we plan our fall gardens, we think about the dwindling light and drop in temperatures that fall will eventually bring. Row cover increases the temperature and humidity beneath it and can be used to increase growth and protect crops in the spring and fall.

How much protection your row cover provides will depend on the weight. Some thinner row covers only provide about 2°F of frost protection, while others offer 6° to 10°F of protection.

Garden beds with row cover
Row cover protecting White Beauty Eggplant from flea beetles.

Protect Your Crops From Pests

Keeping crops pest free can be challenging without resorting to some form of pesticides. Even those OMRI (Organic Materials Institute) certified pesticides can have unwanted adverse effects, harming beneficial insects in the area along with pests. Row cover allows you to block out pests, no sprays needed.

Row cover works with many crop and pest scenarios, including keeping brassicas like cabbage and broccoli free from cabbage loopers, preventing flea beetles from destroying young eggplants, stopping bean beetles from defoliating your bush beans, and preventing pesky vine borers, squash bugs, and cucumber beetles from ruining your cucurbit harvest.

Isolating Crops with Row Cover

Finally, growers can use row cover to isolate specific varieties. Just as it keeps out pests, it keeps out pollinators. While this is unnecessary for most home-scale seed savers, seed companies and plant breeders sometimes use row cover to block out pollinators and hand pollinate crops. This method allows breeders only to cross desired plants, helping keep varieties pure or creating new cultivars and hybrids.

Selecting Row Cover

As we’ve discussed above, many different types of row cover are available depending on what you need it for.

Frost and Cold Temperatures

If you’re looking to protect crops late into the fall or winter, choose a heavier row cover that offers greater protection from cold temperatures. However, heavier-weight row covers must be removed earlier in the spring as they can quickly hold in too much heat as temperatures rise and you head into summer.

Pest Protection

Lightweight options are generally all you need to protect crops from pests and allow you to keep them on without overheating your plants and soil.

Shade Cloth

Shade cloth also comes in varying options with densities ranging from 10% to 60% or more. It’s important to weigh the pros and cons of keeping crops cool while blocking sunlight which can ultimately slow growth.

When purchasing row cover, it’s worth checking with local garden centers as shipping can be pricey. If none is available, many online retailers carry it. You may see row cover listed under several common name brands, including Reemay, Agribon, Agronet, Agryl, Harvest Guard, and Typar.

If you can’t purchase row cover, we’ve found that tulle works as an excellent substitute. You can find it at most fabric stores, and they generally allow you to buy any length you need.

Row cover in kitchen gardenUsing Row Cover

In the spring, you can drape row cover directly over small, flexible transplants and seedlings. The edges should be weighted down, but leave slack for the plant’s to grow. If you’re using row cover for pest protection, bury the edges in the soil.

You’ll want to support the row cover for larger crops or sensitive plants like spinach, lifting it off the crops. You can form mini hoop houses or low tunnels. Many suppliers sell wire hoops to drape the row cover over, but you can also make your own with PVC pipe or other smooth, flexible material. Again, be sure to weigh down the edges of bury it in the soil.

Weeding and Watering

Especially if row cover is on hoops, it’s relatively easy to lift for weeding and watering. However, to keep your setup as low maintenance as possible, consider adding a water system like drip irrigation or soaker hoses before setting up your cover. You should also mulch well around your crops to keep the soil moist and help block weeds before placing your row cover.

Pollination

Just like row cover blocks out pests, it also blocks our bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. If you have row cover over insect-pollinated crops like the nightshades, including eggplants, tomatoes, and peppers, or cucurbits like cucumbers and squashes, you must remove your row cover when they flower. Removing the row cover will allow pollinators to do their jobs so that your crops will fruit! If you feel you still need row cover or shade cloth in place, you can remove it in the morning when pollinating bees are most active and replace it for the afternoon and evening.

Maintaining Row Cover

Row cover isn’t super expensive, but costs add up, especially in large gardens. By making your row cover last, you can help re-coup the costs and be more environmentally conscious. If you care for it well, you’ll be able to use your row cover for several seasons before needing to be replaced. Roll up or fold your row cover and place it in sealed bags or containers when not in use. Make sure that mice and insects can’t get it and make homes out of it while it’s in storage.


Row cover isn’t the answer to all of a garden’s problems, but it is a helpful tool in the organic grower’s repertoire. Whether you’re tired of dealing with ragged heads of cabbage (hello, cabbage worms), are hoping to grow food year-round, or want to keep your lettuce from bolting a little longer, row cover may be a great way to achieve your goals.