Tag Archives: integrated pest management

Cucumber Beetles: Management & Prevention

Spring is full of hope. It’s tough to think about pests as we’re dreaming of the season to come, but spring is a good time to prepare for common garden pests like cucumber beetles. Learning to identify, prevent, and treat cucumber beetles can help ensure you have a productive season. 

What are Cucumber Beetles?

When people say “cucumber beetle” they’re often referring to more than one species. Here in the Southeast, we typically see striped cucumber beetles (Acalymma vittatum) and spotted cucumber beetles (Diabrotica undecimpunctata). 

In other parts of North America, you may find other beetles that fall into the cucumber beetle category like western striped cucumber beetle (Acalymma trivittatum).

Adult striped cucumber beetles feature a dark head, dark antennae, and yellow back, typically with three distinct black stripes running the length. They are about 1/4 inch long. They feed on vegetables in the cucurbit family, including zucchini, cucumbers, yellow squash, pumpkins, watermelons, and winter squash.

Adult spotted cucumber beetles feature a dark head, dark antennae, greenish yellow backs with six black spots. They are about 1/4 inch long. In their adult form, these beetles may feed on cucurbits like cucumbers and squash along with other crops like corn, beans, cotton, and soybeans 

Besides the physical damage from feeding, cucumber beetles are also vectors for several plant diseases, including squash mosaic virus, cucumber mosaic virus, bacterial wilt, and Fusarium wilt.

Striped Cucumber Beetles on a damaged leaf
Striped Cucumber Beetles by Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University / © Bugwood.org

Cucumber Beetle Life Cycle

Both species of cucumber beetle overwinter as adults. They often remain in plant debris in or near the garden. Depending on your location, they leave their hibernation sites in mid-April to June as the temperatures rise. 

The adults feed on seedlings and can kill the plants. They lay their eggs near the base of cucurbit host plants. When their larvae hatch, they feed on the plants’ roots. 

The larvae grow and emerge from the soil as adults between July and September. They continue to feed on plants as adults before finding places to overwinter before cold temperatures set in.

Striped Cucumber Beetles in a Squash Blossom
D. Gordon E. Robertson, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Signs of Cucumber Beetles

Often gardeners will find the cucumber beetles on their plants. They feed on the stems, leaves, flowers, and fruit, often near the soil. Besides finding adult beetles on the plants, there are a few telltale signs that your garden may have a cucumber beetle problem.

You may notice plants wilting, particularly at the cotelydon stage on young plants. At this stage, large amounts of beetles may also completely defoliate or kill the plants.

On large plants, they create holes in the flowers and leaves. Large infestations may girdle plant stems, weakening or killing the plant. Infested plants may also be more susceptible to lodging in high winds. Cucumber beetles will also feed on the fruit, leaving scars and pockmarks on the surface.

You may also notice disease like bacterial wilt, Fusarium wilt, squash mosaic virus, or cucumber mosaic virus killing your plants. Cucumber beetles may spread these diseases.

Spotted Cucumber Beetle eating a leaf
Matthew T Rader, https://matthewtrader.com, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

How to Prevent Cucumber Beetles

Prevention is the best treatment! While there is no way to guarantee a cucumber-beetle-free garden, there are a few ways you can deter them and reduce their impact.

  • Provide habitat for predatory insects and animals. Researchers have found lower numbers of cucumber beetles in fields with higher populations of wolf spiders and carabid beetles. Encouraging these beneficial insects and other wildlife, like songbirds and toads which feed on the beetles, can help reduce their numbers.
  • If you have a severe infestation, follow a strict fall clean-up. As the adult beetles must overwinter, you can kill them in the fall. Thoroughly clean up any gardens infested with beetles. Destroy plant material and till the garden to exposure them to the cold temperatures.
  • Rotate your crops by family. Cucumber beetles often overwinter right in the garden. Practice crop rotation to avoid planting cucurbits into beds with overwintering populations.
  • Transplant your cucumbers and other cucurbits rather than direct sowing. This will protect new seedlings from cucumber beetle damage.
  • Plant late. If cucumber beetles are regularly a problem on your young plants, sowing or transplanting late may help. Cucumber beetles are most tempted in spring but young, weak seedlings. Waiting to plant until summer can reduce the damage to seedlings.
  • Plant trap crops 3 to 8 feet from your main crop. Certain crops like Hubbard squash are highly attractive to cucumber beetles. Plant them to lure the beetles away from your other crops. When they’re heavily infested, you can burn them to knock back cucumber beetle populations.
  • Try companion planting. Some gardeners have luck deterring cucumber beetles with companion plants. Recommended companion plants include nasturtiums, radishes, marigolds, and catnip.
  • Plant under row cover. Row cover is useful for excluding cucumber beetles from the plants. Just remember to remove it when the plants flower to allow for pollination. 

How to Treat Cucumber Beetles

While prevention is best, if you notice you have cucumber beetles this season, there are a few steps you can take. 

The first is to physically remove the beetles. Handpicking is tough with cucumber beetles, but if you only have a few plants, it may be worth it. Some gardeners have luck with rubbing petroleum jelly on the fingertips of their gloves to help them grab these little insects. 

A slightly easier solution is to use a handheld vacuum to suck up the beetles before dumping them into a container of soapy water.

Yellow sticky traps are another popular way to kill cucumber beetles. Keep in mind these traps can also capture pollinators and other beneficial insects visiting the plants. 

There are few chemical controls available (organic or otherwise). Cucurbits are sensitive, making them tough to treat in this way. One organic solution some gardeners use is neem oil. 

Organic Slug Control

Many of our customers occasionally struggle with pests. Unfortunately, they’re a part of gardening! One common issue we see, especially in spring and early summer, is slug damage. These slimy little creatures are active at night and during cool temperatures, snacking on your plants, especially young, tender foliage. They can take out entire seedlings or reduce your harvest from tasty crops like tomatoes and strawberries. Learn how to identify and combat a slug problem with organic methods. 

Signs of Slugs

  • Shiny slime trails across leaves and the ground.
  • Irregularly shaped holes in leaves, flowers, and fruit.
  • Look for slugs at night or on rainy days.
  • Look for slugs under lower leaves, boards, and other cool, moist shelters.

Deter Slugs

Slugs thrive under certain conditions. To prevent them from becoming an issue, avoid making your garden an attractive habitat for them. 

Here are some ways to deter them:

  • Prune lower branches and foliage to encourage air circulation and sunlight.
  • Stake plants like tomatoes to encourage air circulation and keep fruit off the ground. 
  • Divide or thin plants to encourage air circulation and sunlight.
  • Remove natural mulch, like old leaves, at least temporarily.
  • Add compost to beds, improve soil, and improve drainage to help combat wet conditions over time.
  • Remove places where slugs could hide, like containers, flats, stones, boards, etc.
  • Use water-wise gardening techniques like drip irrigation or soaker hoses to minimize excess moisture. 
European Starling
European Starlings are not native to the U.S. but are common in the southeast and are incredible slug predators.

Attract Predators

In the long term, attracting slug predators can also be an effective way to manage slugs. We think they look a little slimy, but many creatures, such as slugs, beetles, toads, turtles, snakes, ducks, and certain songbirds, find them to be a tasty treat. Providing habitats for these animals within your garden can encourage them to stay and eliminate slug populations.

Handpick or Trap Slugs

One of the simplest ways to get rid of slugs is to handpick them. Put on some garden gloves and head out at night with a flashlight for a bit of slug hunting. Then, crush the slugs or toss them into a bucket of soapy water.

While we previously mentioned getting rid of slug homes like boards, you could add them to make the perfect trap. Each morning, flip your board and kill any slugs you find. 

Another classic method for dealing with slugs is the good old-fashioned beer trap. Take small containers or dishes and bury them a bit in the garden so the top is level with the ground. Then, fill them with beer or a water and yeast mixture. The slugs will be attracted to the beer or yeast mixture, fall in, and drown. If you have a serious problem, you may need to put out a good number of traps and change them daily.

Organic Slug Baits & Deterennts

Coating plants with a heavy dusting of diatomaceous earth can help keep slugs at bay. However, it must be reapplied frequently and isn’t always a great long-term solution.

Copper foil or bands are another effective slug deterrent. While they can easily be affixed to a single raised bed, they may not be an efficient choice for large gardens.

You can also purchase organic baits like Sluggo, which is OMRI-certified. If you want to use slug bait, this is a good option because it’s safe for pets and non-toxic. It’s made from iron phosphate.

Many other slug baits are toxic to other animals, including pets and young children. Always select and use garden products carefully.

We always aim to work with nature to create beautiful, bountiful gardens. Unfortunately, pests will always be an occasional issue in any garden, whether organic or conventional. Thankfully, slugs are a relatively easy pest to deal with, and you can use these simple strategies to deter and eliminate them.

Organic Pest Control: Japanese Beetles

A species of scarab beetle, these iridescent insects can be a nightmare for gardeners. Japanese beetles or Popillia japonica skeletonize the leaves of many plant species leaving just the veins. As the females eat throughout the early summer they lay eggs in the ground, eventually producing 40-60. Around midsummer, these eggs hatch into larvae which feed on grass roots until fall when they burrow 4-8 inches into the ground and go dormant for winter. In late spring they become pupae and eventually beetles which emerge from the soil and begin the cycle anew.

Solutions

If you struggled with Japanese beetles in your garden this summer, fall is the perfect time of year to take care of them. Here are a few ways you can control Japanese beetles in your garden.

Beneficial Nematodes

Beneficial nematodes or Steinernema feltiae are worm-like parasites that move through the soil and feed on Japanese beetle and other larvae. When beetles are in their larvae stage spreading nematodes on your lawn or around your fruit trees and garden can be effective.

Milky Spore 

Milky spore or Bacillus popilliae is a bacteria that attacks Japanese beetles in their larval stage. It can be spread on lawns and gardens. Apply before the ground freezes.

Chickens

If you have chickens giving them free rein of the garden or around fruit trees during fall and winter can help. Chickens actively forage for insects in the soil. While their incessant scratching can be a problem around your plants in the middle of summer it can be extremely helpful in the fall. They’ll dig up and eat the larvae. During the summer they’ll also enjoy eating the beetles but you’ll want to limit their time in the garden and fence off small plants that can be easily damaged.

If free-ranging your chickens even for a bit isn’t an option for you, consider putting up moveable fencing. A plastic deer netting will work in a pinch or you can invest in something electric netting which is easy to move, allowing you to rotate your chickens’ pasture.

Welcome-to-the-Garden Pollinator Collection

Wildflowers

Some studies (like this one from 2015), have indicated that wildflower plantings can increase insect biodiversity and the number of beneficial insects in gardens and reduce pest issues.

Floating Row Cover

While not necessarily the easiest solution, adult Japanese beetles can also be kept at bay with floating row cover.

Neem Oil

Some folks have also had success using neem oil to protect plants from adult beetles. It’s an organic pesticide and fungicide that’s used for a variety of garden problems and is available in many garden supply stores. It’s generally sprayed directly onto the plant. Multiple applications may be necessary throughout the season.

Crop Rotation & Cover Cropping

As always we recommend keeping your soil and therefore plants healthy by employing crop rotation and cover crops. Healthy plants are much less susceptible to pest problems. Fall is the perfect time of year for a soil test as well.

Sources