Selecting Corn for the Home Garden

When I started gardening, I only had the vaguest of understandings of different types of corn. My family had grown some hybrid sweet corn, and I knew that the popcorn they sold in the stores and the stuff people used as decorations in the fall were different. If you’re new to gardening or heirlooms, you might be in the same place. Browsing catalogs that offered heirloom and open-pollinated varieties of corn opened my eyes to the wide range of possibilities. It can be a bit overwhelming, so here are a few things to consider when selecting corn for the home garden. 

Hybrid Sweet Corn

We carry two varieties of hybrid sweet corn at SESE. Hybrid sweet corn has the advantage of typically maturing all at once, which can be helpful for some farmers. Most hybrids have also been bred to be extra sweet and to hold their sweetness after being harvested. Hybrid corn also has weak seedling vigor and doesn’t perform well in cool soil. For good pollination and ear development, open-pollinated corn should be planted in blocks at least four rows wide.

Open-Pollinated Sweet Corn

Unlike hybrid sweet corn, open-pollinated varieties often don’t mature all at once and aren’t always uniform in size. This feature can be helpful for home gardeners looking to harvest over a more extended period. They also have a more old-fashioned corn flavor that many home gardeners and seed savers value. The seedlings tend to be more tolerant of insect damage and cool temperatures than their hybrid counterparts. Open-pollinated corn should be planted in blocks at least 5-6 rows wide for good pollination and ear development.

Popcorn

Unlike sweet corn, you harvest popcorn when it’s fully mature and dry. You’ll then need to dry it further for it to pop nicely. Popcorn can be removed from the ear by hand or with a sheller to make the process easier. Today, we mainly use popcorn for popping, but traditionally some Native Americans also ground popcorn to make bread.

Flint, Dent, & Flour Corn

All three of these broad categories are types of grain corn. However, they differ in climactic adaptation, kernel composition, kernel shape, and best culinary uses.

Flint corns are a traditional favorite of the northeast because they thrive in cold, wet climates. They have hard, pointed kernels and are a good choice for cooking methods that involve boiling, like making polenta or johnnycakes.

Dent corns are what we focus on at Southern Exposure. They are typically heirlooms of the southeast and midwest. They get their name from their tell-tale dent created by a flinty ring surrounding a floury center which sinks and creates the characteristic dent as it dries out. Heirloom dent corns make excellent cornbread, hominy, and roasting ears. Some old-timers prefer eating the starchy dent corns in the same manner as sweet corns.

Flour corns are commonly grown in the Southwest but have been grown in many areas. They have soft, rounded kernels and, as the name suggests, are typically ground into flour. Their soft kernels create fine flour that can be used like wheat flour and is excellent for baking.

Gourdseed Corn

Gourdseed our one of our oldest corns and dates back to at least 1700. They were once commonly grown in southern Virginia and were used for feed, roasting, and flour. The plants are heavily stalked and bear ears having a large number of rows of thin, deep kernels. Some varieties were so easy to shell that it only took a light touch to the ear.

Gourdseed corns were grown until about 1940 before hybrids became popular. In 1889, gourdseed corn won the Great Corn Contest sponsored by the American Agriculturist, yielding 255 bushels per acre. Because of interest in hybrid corn, gourdseed corns were virtually extinct by the 1960s, but recently they have been found to be valuable because of their resistance to some diseases, notably southern leaf blight. After a year-long search for this disease-resistant variety, Dr. Brown, former president of Pioneer Hi-Bred rediscovered gourdseed corn on a Texas farm.

 

There’s so much more diversity to explore than just a few varieties of sweetcorn you’ll find at your local grocery store. I highly encourage anyone with the space to grow some of their own corn and experience the joy of tasting sweet and nutty cornbreads, colorful, buttery popcorns, or sweet corns with vibrant flavors and histories. 

 

Basics: How to Start Seeds Indoors

Starting seeds indoors during the cold and dark of winter might be one of the greatest joys for a gardener. It means that greener, sunnier times are coming. Starting seeds indoors isn’t difficult, but there are a few tricks of the trade. Here’s everything you need to know to start seeds indoors and care for your seedlings successfully. 

Gather Supplies & Calendar

To start seeds indoors, you need a few basic supplies. You’ll need a shelf or table, containers, seed starting mix, lights, and a waterer. It’s easiest to have a good setup before you begin. You’ll also need to know the appropriate times to start seeds in your area. It’s a good idea to have or make a calendar for this. 

Earlier in our basics series, we covered what you need to start seeds and when you should start seeds. Please refer to those posts for complete details. 

Follow Planting Recommendations

When starting the seeds you purchased, follow the package instructions or the growing guide. 

Look at planting depth. Some seeds need light to germinate, and you’ll need gently press them into the soil’s surface, while other seeds need to stay moist and dark, and you should plant them at 1/4 inch deep or more.

Try using the tip of a pencil to make holes in the seed starting mix for your seeds.

Consider additional requirements. Some varieties need a bit of extra attention before sowing. Watch for seeds that should be soaked overnight or stratified before planting. 

If you have seeds you got from a friend or seed swap without directions, do a little digging about what that variety needs to thrive. 

Keep Moist

Your containers should have drainage, and you should avoid over or under-watering. Seedlings should be kept moist but not soggy. If the roots sit in water, your plants will fail to thrive. 

A pump-up water mister or sprayer can make watering much more effortless. Using a fine spray can help dislodge tiny seeds and seedlings, and you can swap to a larger traditional watering can as plants grow larger.

The larger your seedlings get, the more water they’ll use, so be sure to take extra care to check them as they grow. Using warm lights or heat maps can also increase your need for watering. 

Adjust Lighting

You’ll also need to adjust your lighting as your seedlings grow. As discussed in our previous post about supplies, you’ll need to provide your seedlings with auxiliary lights hanging above them. 

Keep these lights 2 to 4 inches away from the tops of the seedlings. As your seedlings grow, you’ll want to raise them, so they don’t burn the tops of the plants. However, if you notice your seedlings getting tall and spindly, you should lower your lights.

Fertilize

Seed-starting mixes are great for starting seeds but only provide a few nutrients. If your seedlings grow in containers for an extended period, you’ll need to give them fertilizer. 

The easiest way to give seedlings a boost is to add liquid fertilizer to the water. Liquid kelp is an excellent organic option, and just a tablespoon or two added to a gallon of water goes a long way. Some folks also choose to water with compost tea. 

For liquid kelp or other purchased fertilizers, follow package instructions when available. You should cut the amount in half if the instructions are for mature plants. 

Pot Up as Needed

Your seedlings may outgrow your containers before you’re ready to transplant them. It’s a good idea to have a few larger containers on hand, about an inch or two wider than the existing containers. 

Potting up provides fresh soil and space. If left in small containers, seedlings can become root bound where the roots wrap around the inside of the pot, and can take longer to begin growing after you transplant them. 

You should repot most seedlings so that the stem is at the same level as in the initial pot. Tomatoes can be repotted deeper, with soil covering the stem up to just below their leaves, as they will grow new roots from the stem. 

It’s almost February! In the Southeast, we’re ready to start seeds indoors, and you probably are too. Follow these tips to start seeds indoors and care for them until spring for a bountiful garden in the coming season.

Basics: When to Start Seeds

A common question we get is, “I live [insert your state here}; when should I plant [insert variety here]?” As a small organization, we would need more time to answer all of these, and we’d like to enable folks to determine all their planting dates. Here’s what you need to do to determine when to start seeds, no matter where you live. 

Find Your Zone

Knowing your zone will help determine your first and last estimated frost dates and average winter lows. Armed with this information, you can make better choices about starting seeds and what varieties of annuals and perennials are best suited to your climate. 

Find your zone by using the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.

Get Local Recommendations

If you can read this blog on a phone or computer, you can also access many personal planting charts available. Our gardener planner app provides planting dates based on your zip code. You can also find free planting dates by zip code on the Farmer’s Almanac website

If you like books, we also recommend grabbing a local gardening guide. These typically include much more than just planting dates and can provide other handy advice for dealing with your local climate, pest issues, and soil conditions. 

Most extension agencies also offer planting dates. In many cases you can get a planting calendar for your state, regions, or possibly even county from your local extension agency. They often have good advice for what varieties thrive in your area too. 

Pick Your Own offers a list of agencies if you need help finding yours. 

Brassica seedlingsStarting Indoors: The Basics

We recommend starting most of your seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before you expect to transplant them. This amount of time works well for tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplants, collards, cabbages, broccoli, and other brassicas. Some crops like onions, hot peppers, celery, and celeriac are slower to get started, and you should start them indoors about 8-10 weeks before you want to transplant them.

Winter is tough on gardeners, and it can be tempting to begin sowing seeds indoors extra early. Unfortunately, giving the plants extra time indoors can be detrimental. If seedlings get too large, they can experience greater transplant shock and suffer damage.

Direct Sowing: The Basics

Direct sowing dates vary widely with crop type. Hardy, cool weather-loving crops like peas and spinach can be direct sown months before the heat-loving stars of summer like squash and watermelons. Some flowers are delicate and can only be direct sown after all chance of frost has passed, while some can be direct sown in the fall to overwinter and get an early spring start. 

Read about your chosen varieties and look at your area’s estimated last frost date. For future years, keeping a garden journal about what you planted, when, and how it faired can be helpful.

Knowing when to start seeds doesn’t need to be guesswork. You can use these resources to start seeds at appropriate times and grow a bountiful garden. 

Saving the Past for the Future