All posts by Jordan Charbonneau

Winter Lettuce Production

In much of the Southeast, it’s challenging to get good lettuce production during the summer. We get a few cool weeks in the early spring before the heat sets in, and our lettuce bolts and turns bitter. In years like this, where hot, dry weather lingers, fall production can be challenging, too. Thankfully, winter lettuce production is surprisingly easy. 

While lettuce isn’t technically as cold-tolerant as some of the tougher greens, you can still produce good lettuce with a bit of protection and proper care.

Lettuce in the hoophouse at Twin Oaks
Lettuce in the hoophouse at Twin Oaks

Season Extension for Lettuce

In some areas of the Deep South, you get away with growing lettuce in the field with no additional protection. However, lettuce isn’t incredibly frost tolerant, so in most places, you need to provide some additional frost protection.

Unheated greenhouses, cold frames, and high tunnels offer the most protection while still providing plenty of sunlight. These are ideal for mountainous areas where serious cold protection is needed.

That said, you can usually get away with more affordable and accessible options. Row cover and low tunnels made with clear plastic and wire hoops can give you a cheap, easy-to-install method of season extension. Note that low tunnels and row cover can reduce airflow, potentially encouraging pest and disease issues, so it’s important to stay vigilant and open them when possible.

In very cold temperatures, you can combine the two methods. You can use row cover to provide an extra buffer for lettuce growing high tunnels and greenhouses.

Winter lettuce growing in a low tunnel

Winter lettuce seedlings growing in a low tunnel

Lettuce Soil Requirements

Lettuce is generally considered an easy crop, but like any crop, it will perform better with optimum soil conditions, particularly during the winter. It thrives in well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5.

It often surprises new growers, but lettuce is a heavy feeder because it grows so quickly. It benefits from soil rich in minerals and organic matter, so amending your soil with compost before planting is a good idea. You also want to consider this when planning your cover crops and crop rotation. 

Especially if you have struggled with lettuce in the past, a soil test is a great tool that will allow you to amend your soil appropriately. 

Lettuce Seeding

In the Southeast, we can get away with seeding lettuce pretty late into the fall. You can continue direct sowing as long as your soil temperature needs to be above 32°F. However, that doesn’t mean you will get quick growth.

Cold temperatures, cloudy days, rain, snow, and limited daylight can all affect lettuce growth. It may feel like your lettuce isn’t growing at all. It’s not unusual for lettuce to take up to an additional 30 days or even longer to mature over the winter. Getting seeds in the ground in the fall is helpful for winter harvests. Additionally, you’ll begin seeing faster growth as the days grow longer in February and spring. 

When seeding your winter lettuce, sow seeds about 1/4 inch deep. The spacing you need for for rows of lettuce depends on what size you intend to harvest your lettuce at.

Generally, when harvesting lettuce during the winter, we harvest it as baby greens. This means we get to enjoy a harvest a bit earlier. It also protects the lettuce. Smaller lettuce is much more frost and cold-tolerant than mature heads.  For baby lettuce harvests, you can get away with 4-inch row spacing, but closer to 12 inches for mature heads is ideal.

Winter lettuce transplants in a tray
Winter lettuce transplants

You can also transplant lettuce. Transplanting is a great way to keep successions going, get seeds started faster, and fill in any gaps in your cold frame, hoop house, or other bed throughout the winter.

Winter Lettuce Care

Winter lettuce tends to be a bit more hands-off than spring lettuce, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to manage. Weed pressure is less in the winter, but you should remove any fall weeds as these can be harbors for pests and diseases. 

You should also continue to water lettuce through the winter. As it grows more slowly, winter lettuce has lower moisture needs but still requires periodic watering to keep the soil moist in low tunnels, cold frames, greenhouses, and high tunnels.

It’s critical to keep water off the leaves when watering, as this can encourage disease and frost issues. Water lettuce at the base. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal.

You also want to keep your lettuce from overheating and offer good airflow whenever possible.  On warm and sunny days, vent high tunnels, cold frames, greenhouses, and low tunnels whenever possible. 

Despite the cooler temperatures, pests and disease can still play a role in winter lettuce production, partly because of the minimal airflow and moisture associated with season extension devices. Watch for pests like aphids, mites, and white flies, as well as fungal diseases like powdery mildew, dampening off, and bottom rot and bacterial diseases like soft rot.

Quan Yin Batavian Lettuce
Quan Yin Batavian Lettuce

Lettuce Varieties for Winter Production

When selecting lettuce for the winter garden, you may want to choose varieties different from what you would usually pick for gardening in the Southeast. Cold-hardiness and disease resistance are of the utmost importance during for winter production. 

Here are a few of our favorites:

Winter Lettuce Harvest

As mentioned above, harvesting your winter lettuce as baby greens is ideal. If possible, harvest lettuce when the leaves are dry and gently cut the leaves with scissors or a knife. Especially in cold weather, lettuce is easy to bruise. 

You can store lettuce in the fridge, but for best results, we recommend harvesting just before you’re ready to eat. 

 

You can grow lettuce all winter long in the Southeast using a few basic strategies. Keep growing this winter, and enjoy fresh, crisp salads!

Bulbs and Beyond: Fall Planting for Spring Production

Fall is one of the most magical times in the garden. The morning air is cool and crisp, the weeds and pests are beginning to dwindle, and we’re finally enjoying harvests from our long season crops. I love spending autumn days in the garden so much that I often plant almost as much in the fall as in the spring. Thankfully, there are some excellent fall crops I can sneak in this time of year that provide a spring abundance.

What Crops Can I Plant This Fall?

The fall planting list is surprisingly long! If you’re willing to put in the work, there are several flowers, herbs, and vegetables that can all be fall-planted for incredible spring flowers and harvests. 

Fall-Planted Flowers

Fall planting brings spring blooms! If you want early flowers, fall planting is a must. There are many different types of fall-planted flowers, so I divided them into two categories: those you plant from bulbs, corms, tubers, or roots, and those you start from seed. Flowers you can start from seed are often those varieties with a tendency to self-seed that would naturally drop seed each fall and spread. 

Flower BulbsBulbs, Corms, Tubers, & Roots

  • Anemones (Anemone spp.)
  • Checkered Lily (Fritillaria meleagris)
  • Crocus (Iridaceae spp.)
  • Daffodils (Narcissus spp.)
  • Dutch Iris (Iris × hollandica)
  • German Iris (Iris × germanica)
  • Hyacinth (Hyacinthus spp.)
  • Oriental Lilies (Lilium orientalis)
  • Ornamental Alliums (Allium spp.)
  • Peonies (Paeonia officinalis)
  • Snowdrop (Galanthus spp.)
  • Tulips (Tulipa spp.)

Seeds

  • Bachelor’s Buttons (Centaurea cyanus)
  • Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa)
  • Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
  • Coreopsis (Coreopsis spp.)
  • Dara (Daucus carota)
  • Echinacea (Echinacea spp.)
  • Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea)
  • Johnny Jump-Ups (Viola spp.)
  • Larkspur (Delphinium spp.)
  • Rudbeckia (Rudbeckia spp.)
  • Snapdragons (Antirrhinum spp.)
  • Sweet Peas (Lathyrus odoratus)

Fall-Planted Herbs 

While flower bulbs often seem to be the focus for fall, there are a number of cold-tolerant or perennial herbs you can start this autumn. 

  • Chives
  • Cilantro
  • Feverfew
  • Mint
  • Parsley
  • Thyme
Nancy Malone Wheat Purple Collards
Nancy Malone Wheat Purple Collards

Fall-Planted Vegetables

Hardy vegetables are one of my favorite fall crops. Overwintered vegetables will often start putting on good growth during occasional warm February and March days when we start getting more daylight. They’re ready to harvest long before any indoor seed or spring-started crop ever will be! I’ve divided the vegetables into groups so it’s easier to find the type of crops you’re interested in.

Alliums

  • Bulb Onions
  • Garlic
  • Perennial Onions
  • Shallots

Brassicas

  • Broccoli
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower

Beans

  • Fava/Broad Beans

Greens

  • Arugula
  • Claytonia
  • Collards
  • Kale
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard Greens
  • Spinach
  • Swiss Chard

Roots

  • Beets
  • Carrots
  • Daikon Radishes
  • Rutabagas
  • Potatoes
  • Turnips

When Can I Plant These Fall Crops?

The answer to this question depends on both the crop and your location. Those in New England will need to plant much earlier than those in the Deep South, but it also depends on what you’re growing.

For example, you should only plant tulips when soil temperatures have cooled. For those in northern areas, you may be able to put them in as early as September, but waiting until as late as December may be preferable for those in the south. 

Learning about your hardiness zone and using a garden planner app may help you make the best decisions for planting dates. 

Do These Fall Crops Need Protection?

Again, this depends on the crop and location. In warm, southern climates, all of these crops will need less protection than they do in northern zones. In fact, those in the deep south may have to continue weeding and watering as usual into the fall months. 

However, in many areas, these crops, particularly the fall vegetables, benefit from some sort of protection. For root crops and alliums, this may mean a thick layer of straw or hay mulch around the base of the plant to provide some insulation. For greens and herbs, planting them in a hoop house or cold frame or installing low tunnels with wires and clear plastic is ideal. 

Most of the flower bulbs, corms, roots, and tubers do best when they receive a layer of mulch after planting, but they should come with instructions. On the other hand, the flower seeds are usually fine without protection. Some seeds, like echinacea, actually require a period of cold and moisture to germinate properly.

 

Getting good production during the winter months can be challenging, even in the south. Shorter days mean less plant growth, even when the weather is warm. That said, you may still want to consider some of these fall crops. When sown in fall, these flowers, herbs, and vegetables will provide extra-early spring production. Get a jump on 2025 with these fantastic fall-planted crops.

How Long Will My Squash Last?

Winter squash and pumpkins are among the few foods you can harvest in July or August and eat in January. Before the advent of modern refrigeration, these squashes and pumpkins were an essential way that growers could put fresh, vitamin-rich food up for winter. Unlike most vegetables, which must be canned, dried, or frozen, properly storing winter squash and pumpkin is a fairly simple, low-effort process. Exactly how long they last depends on the variety and storage conditions you provide.

Squash Storage Period

While we love the flavor of all of the winter squash and pumpkin varieties that we offer, not all of them are equal in terms of their storage ability. 

Generally speaking, acorn squash and delicata can last up to 2 months, butternuts 2-to-3 months, hubbarbs 5 to 6 months, and some specialty cultivars 9 months to a year.

These numbers may vary widely, depending on the specific variety and proper curing and storage. Just look at these as general guidelines. I’ve had butternuts store for 6 months, but that doesn’t mean they always do.

Thankfully, for many squashes, storage actually improves their flavor. Typically, we advise people to get vegetables from the garden to their plate as quickly as possible for the best flavor. Tender vegetables like sweet corn, broccoli, and peas begin converting sugars to starches as soon as you harvest them. 

The opposite is true with squashes, particularly those used for longer storage like Hubbards. These storage squashes convert starches to sugars once harvested and have the best flavor when they’ve been allowed to cure and store for at least a couple of weeks. 

Our Favorite Squashes for Longterm Storage

If the squash you grew doesn’t keep as well as you had hoped, you may want to add an excellent keeper to the plot next year. 

  • Seminole Pumpkin – 1 year
  • Tahitian Melon Winter Squash – 9+ months
  • Tan Cheese Pumpkin – 1 year
  • South Anna Butternut Winter Squash – 6+ months

Garden Planning for Winter Squash and Pumpkin Storage

Unfortunately, many gardeners’ favorite varieties, like Winter Luxury Pumpkin or Candystick Dessert Delicata Winter Squash, don’t keep as well as those mentioned above.

If you’re a fan of winter squash, one of my favorite ways to plant squash is to pick two or three cultivars with short-, medium-, and long-term storage ability. Rather than growing a big patch of one, plant a few of each. This will give you plenty of squash for hearty stews, curries, and baked goods over a longer period.

Winter Luxury Pie Pumpkin
Winter Luxury Pie Pumpkin

My Squash Won’t Last Much Longer, What Do I Do?

If you have a lot of squash or pumpkin that you don’t think you can use up in time, I recommend freezing it. You can’t freeze squash raw; you need to cook it first.

My favorite method is to halve and bake winter squash and pumpkins, then scoop the soft, cooked flesh into freezer-proof containers, cool, and freeze. Alternatively, you can peel the squash or pumpkin and boil it until tender.

If you don’t have enough freezer space, pressure canning pumpkins and winter squash is another option. Keep in mind that you need a pressure canner; it’s a low-acid food that’s unsafe for water bath canning.

Drying winter squash and pumpkins also works, especially if you already own a dehydrator. Dried winter squash and pumpkins are wonderful for quick soups and camping trips.

There are plenty of great ways to use winter squash and pumpkins. Here are a few of my favorite recipes for using them up and preserving them:

Storage Quick Tips

Previously on the blog, we’ve covered exactly how to properly harvest, cure, and store winter squash and pumpkins. For this post, I’ll focus on a few key points:

  • If possible, allow winter squash and pumpkins to fully ripen on the vine before harvest (the stem should start developing wood-brown stripes near the fruit). This improves storage ability.
  • Harvest winter squash and pumpkins before your first frost.
  • Avoid storing squash near apples, pears, and tomatoes that put off ethylene (the ripening hormone).
  • Ideal storage conditions for winter squash and pumpkins are between 50 and 60°F, and humidity is 50 to 70%.

Winter squash and pumpkins are among the best storage crops. Choosing the right varieties and storing them properly can allow you to enjoy squash throughout the entire year!