All posts by Jordan Charbonneau

Squash, Pumpkin, & Zucchini Seed Saving Guide

Fall is the perfect time to save squash seeds from your favorite variety! 

There are four species of pumpkins and squash, including zucchini. While they all share the same characteristics for care and seed saving, home gardeners can grow one of each species without worry. Crossing between species is rare. 

Isolate Your Plants

In our catalog, you’ll find the species names: Curcurbita pepo, C. maxima, C. moschata, and C. mixta listed in parentheses next to each variety name.

Isolate varieties of the same species by a minimum of 1/8 mile if you save seed for home use. Pure seed requires hand pollination or a minimum isolation of 1/4 to 1 mile, depending on planting size.

Select Plants for Seed Saving

While you can save viable seeds from just one plant, we recommend saving from five to ten plants if you can to maintain a variety over many generations. If you’re working to preserve a rare variety, aim to save seed from 25 plants or more. 

If you have many plants to choose from, you can select plants based on desired characteristics like pest or disease resistance, early production, or appearance. 

Allow Your Squash to Mature

To save viable seed, your squash must be fully mature. When working with summer squash and zucchini, this means allowing them to grow beyond the typical eating size. The fruits are ready to harvest for seed when they’re oversized, may have changed color, have dry stems, and the rinds are difficult to dent with your fingernail.

Winter squash and pumpkins have mature seeds when you would normally harvest them for eating. Watch for their color to change to its mature hue and their stems to fully dry.An overlarge zucchini sliced in half for seed saving

Harvest Your Squash Seeds

You may harvest seeds immediately after picking the fruit, but it’s best to wait another 20 days or even longer if desired. The seeds will continue to mature during this curing period, but you won’t risk the fruit rotting out in the garden.

When working with winter squash and pumpkins, you can keep your fruits in storage as usual and harvest the seeds when you’re ready to cook the squash. Zucchini seeds fermenting in a mason jar.

Process Your Squash Seeds

There are two ways to process squash seeds. The first is just to scoop them out, rinse and manually remove the pulp, and dry them. While this way may be the quickest, there’s another great option.

The second option is to ferment the seeds, similar to processing tomato seeds. The fermentation helps remove the natural gel and pulp from the seeds, which improves germination. It also kills many seed-borne diseases.

In this method, you’ll scoop out all the seeds and don’t worry about the pulp. Place the whole mess into a Mason jar. Top the jar off with water, cover with a cloth and rubber band or twine, and leave the seeds to ferment for 2 to 4 days. You’ll probably notice a film or some bubbles on the surface; this is perfectly fine.

Then rinse the fermented seeds on a screen or colander. The pulp and gel should come off easily now that they’ve fermented. 

Finally, lay your seeds out on a towel, paper towel, or fine mesh screen to dry for a couple of days. On a towel, flip or stir them occasionally so they dry faster.

Storing Squash Seeds

Only store squash seeds that are completely dry. When you bend one, it should crack, not flex under pressure. Place dry seeds in airtight containers somewhere cool, dry, and free from direct sunlight. 

Read more about properly storing seeds and testing for germination. 

How to Plant Echinacea (Coneflowers) This Fall

Drought tolerant and low maintenance, echinacea, or coneflower, is among our favorite native flowers. Once established, it offers tons of color and great food for songbirds and pollinators. Unfortunately, it’s not always the easiest to start from seed.

Echinacea seeds must go through a cold, moist period in order to break dormancy. Thankfully, winter is the perfect time to start this process so you can enjoy bright echinacea blooms in your garden for years to come. 

Growing Requirements

Echinacea is a hardy, drought-tolerant perennial that thrives even in poor soil. When considering echinacea and selecting a spot for plants, keep these features in mind.

Perennial. Echinacea is perennial in zones 3 through 9 and will readily self-seed.

Full sun. Echinacea thrives in full sun but will tolerate partial shade, though it may not bloom as often. 

Soil Requirements. Echinacea is exceptionally tolerant of nutrient-poor soil. It thrives in well-drained areas. It won’t tolerate excessive moisture, and will often rot in poorly drained, soggy areas. 

Water Requirements. Once established, echinacea is low-maintenance and drought-tolerant. It grows a large taproot. 

Bloom period. Depending on your variety and location, echinacea may bloom any time from late spring to fall. In zone 7a, we typically see blooms from midsummer to fall. 

Deer-Resistant. We’ve found that deer typically leave echinacea alone. While they may occasionally grab a bite, deer typically prefer more palatable plants. 

In favorable conditions, echinacea can self-sow and spread. Keep this in mind when sowing in or near beds you typically use for annuals. You may need to divide or contain echinacea to keep it from taking up too much of your garden. However, the large taproot on mature plants can make them difficult to move.

Echinacea angustifolia blooms
Echinaceą angustifolia by Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Echinacea Varieties

We currently carry three echinacea varieties. 

Echinacea Pallida (Pale Purple Coneflower)
Drooping flower petals are 1½-3½ in. long and may range in color from pink, purple, or white, but are typically rosy purple, with a purple-brown flower disc. Long, narrow leaves. 

Echinacea Angustifolia (Narrow-Leaved Coneflower)
The plants are the smallest of the echinaceas (8-18 in.) and the spreading pink ray petals are the shortest (¾-13⁄8 in. long). The leaves are long and narrow.

Echinacea Purpurea (Purple Coneflower)
The flowers are 3-4 in. across with pink-orange cone-shaped centers and purple-pink rays. 

Many garden centers also offer hybrid varieties, and our friends at Prairie Moon Nursery, who specialize in native seeds, also offer Tennessee coneflower, Bush’s coneflower, and Ozark coneflower. 

Cold Stratification

For good germination, you must cold stratify echinacea. This means you need to expose the seeds to a period of moisture and cold temperatures about 40 °F or below. You can do this by starting seeds indoors or outside.

Cold stratification is how plant seeds adapted to stay dormant over winter before germinating in spring. The cold, moist period followed by warmth signals the seasonal shift to the seeds.

Longer times are better, but as little as 3 weeks of stratification will give some germination for Echinacea pallida and Echinacea angustifolia. Echinacea purpurea, needs less cold stratification than other species. For it, just 7 days of stratification will increase germination rates so you can spring plant it if needed.

Echinacea pallida blooms
Echinacea pallida by wackybadger, CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Starting Echinacea Indoors

Sow your echinacea seeds in flats or pots of moist soil in fall or about two to four months before your desired planting date. Place your pots or flats into a refrigerator over the winter. Check your flats regularly, spritzing them with water occasionally to ensure they don’t dry out.

Remove the flats from the fridge in late winter or very early spring. The seeds may take two to four weeks to germinate after you remove them from the refrigerator.

Sow extra seed. Echinacea typically has only a 50% germination rate.

Starting Echinacea Outside

Sowing seeds outdoors in the fall is an easy way to cold stratify them. Sow your seeds in a clean, weed-free bed or in flats in a cold frame in late fall or early winter. They’ll stay safe and dormant through the winter until the warm weather in spring signals them to germinate. 

Harvesting Echinacea

You can harvest echinacea as a cut flower or for tea and herbal medicine. Herbalists often use the flowers, leaves, and roots of echinacea in immune-boosting teas, tinctures, and other herbal products. 

Wait to harvest roots until your echinacea plant is at least three years old. Like many perennials, it needs ample time to get established before it will tolerate a major harvest.

When you’re ready to harvest roots, do so in late fall after a killing frost. Gently lift the soil with a fork and harvest a small portion of the roots. If you’re growing a large patch, you can also use this opportunity to thin the patch and sacrifice a whole plant. 

Harvesting & Ripening Green Tomatoes Before Frost

Our fall frosts always sneak up on us. It still feels like summer now, but autumn is right around the corner. If you’re like us, when Jack Frost comes knocking, your garden will still be full of green tomatoes. Thankfully, it is possible to ripen many of these tomatoes indoors. 

What Happens If My Tomatoes Get Frosted?

Unfortunately, tomatoes are highly frost-sensitive. If you get a good frost, your plants will wilt, and the fruit will darken and turn mushy. Watching the weather for frost is critical. 

Harvest all your tomatoes before frost threatens and bring them indoors for sorting. Those that are ripe or almost ripe are ready for quick use. The green tomatoes will need to be stored, ripened, or processed. 

Will My Green Tomatoes Ripen?

Many of the green tomatoes on your plants will ripen if picked and stored properly indoors. For tomatoes to ripen, look for those that are at their mature size and light green. It’s tough to tell, but compare them to other tomatoes on the plant and those you have previously harvested.

Tomatoes that have already reached the breaker or blushing stage with tinges of pink or yellow on the bottom, are also perfect for ripening indoors.  

Picking green tomatoes is a great way to have fresh tomatoes further into the autumn. Did you know that there are storage tomatoes bred specifically for this purpose? Storage tomatoes produce fruit that reliably ripens off the vine. Typically, we plant storage tomatoes one to two months after the main tomato crop, timing the harvest for fall.

Storage tomatoes aren’t quite as tasty as a summer tomato fresh from the vine, but they are far better than their grocery store counterparts.Green tomatoes on a plant

How to Store and Ripen Green Tomatoes

To ripen green tomatoes, begin with unblemished fruit. Store the fruit somewhere cool so that none of it is touching, and it’s out of direct sunlight. We’ve found that old apple boxes with their fruit dividers are great for this. Some folks also have luck with wrapping them individually in newspaper.

Never refrigerate your tomatoes.

Check your tomatoes at least once a week to look for ripening and remove any bad ones that have begun to rot. Turning tomatoes often can also help them ripen more evenly. 

How to Speed Up Ripening

If you have a lot of tomatoes, you probably want to ripen them slowly over time, but if you need some tomatoes to ripen quickly, there are a couple of steps you can take. First, move your tomatoes somewhere warm, like your kitchen. They ripen well between 68°F and 77°F (20°C to 25°C).

The second thing you can do is take advantage of the tomato’s natural ethylene gas. Tomatoes produce ethylene gas as they ripen, and the gas speeds up the process. Large growers typically harvest under-ripe tomatoes and will ripen them when needed by exposing them to ethylene gas so that they’re red when they hit the grocery store shelves.

You can increase the ethylene gas around your tomatoes by placing them in a paper bag or lidded cardboard box. Just remember to check them regularly. 

What Do I Do With Immature Green Tomatoes?

Dark green tomatoes that haven’t reached their mature size won’t ripen well indoors. For these tomatoes, we recommend using them green or preserving them. You can make fried green tomatoes, chow chow, pickles, and more. Find our five favorite ways to preserve and use green tomatoes.